most of the reverse issue is because of PIS setting, especially cold car= ok, hot car = inop. PERIOD!
check your F1 fluid... mine would do the same as you described and also get the slowdown message if i rapid shift when car is cold every time and sometimes when hot... So I topped up the F1 fluid reservoir with a generic Dexron III I had left over from many years ago and the problem went away. And about topping up the F1 fluid.... just top it up excess will overflow from the hose, just make sure you arent doing it on your garage floor.
Ferrari 360 spider 2001.If you over fill the f1 reservoir not only will it put a spill on the garage floor But it will overflow into your red hot exhaust when your cornering hard leaving white smoke bellowing out of the engine bay,worst case fire, I’ve been making this mistake for 14 months and it’s frightening and frustrating until someone told me this Open door get in car turn ignition on ,pump pressurised Open engine bay ,close car door, Wait an hour by this time the fluid will have made its way back into the reservoir and then you adjust the level of the fluid to the correct mark on the dipstick,this is the correct level of F1 fluid for the reservoir,open the door turn ignition on and system pressurises leaving 5mm of f1 fluid in there that won’t slosh up and over breather holes drip on exhaust and cause havoc For me so far so good I’ve just changed my F1 pump and motor (all one unit)$$450 Australian dollars from the uk eurospares also the accumulator $200(bulb thing sits on top of F1 system next too pump)also change 30 amp relay as well $90 sits behind the seat easy plug n playruns great ,pressurised in 13 seconds door open then further 3s when ignition turned onget the job done by professional the system needs to be bled and system reset on sd2 diagnostics computer Sent from my iPhone us View attachment 2614248 ing FerrariChat.com mobile app
I have the (OEM) cs tcu with a PIS of 4.2 IIRC (which stays fixed unlike the base 360 TCU). Had it this way since 2011, and while sporadic R-N issues, nothing like this, so I'm not sure it makes sense it's the CS TCU. Also, wouldn't the fact that a ~16 second priming when opening the door and doing the test (ignition ON, shift between 1st and N) cause the pump to run every 1 or 2 shifts be indicative of a bad accumulator at a minimum from not holding the pressure well enough? Otherwise, I don't notice any issues shifting 99.5% of the driving, just backing out of the driveway. I don't here the pump running at stop lights either. I'm tempted to take it to the dealer as I don't want to risk doing any damage to the actuator ($4k used or $10k+ new?). Wouldn't get great to get stuck at a stoplight, but I'm also not the type of person to overspend on preventative maintenance (ie stuff like replacing pump motor every 3 years).
I had reverse issues with my 2002 360 Spyder all the time. They were all cured when the dealer replaced clutch, throw out bearing and position sensor. It never has an issue now. However, if it happened only once, owners manual says that if the reverse shift fails to happen, it is caused by transmission blockage and not a defect. I would imagine it is like those times with a stick shift, that more push has to be put into the lever to get into reverse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
not english native speaker, so not understanding 100% of what you said. Here's what i've guessed. U are saying that you have a pressure loss, right? The pressure loss does NOT necessarily mean the cul prit is the accumulator. the leak could be anywhere in the system, for example, a solenoid valve. You are saying your CS tcu 's PIS cannot be adjusted , right? That is either because the diagnostic tool is having a problem or it is not a genuine CS tcu or operating procedure on adjusting the PIS is incorrect. I have a CHallenge race car TCU and everything in that TCU is pretty much unadjustable. No issue when driving does not mean the PIS is set correctly. my experience is that , if the relatively correct PIS is 4.5, and you set the PIS to 4.0, you will not be able to reverse when car's hot. Hands-on experience.
Before you start hauling it to bits, are you sure you have not got air in the system ? Air will affect the hydraulic pressure, instead of hydraulic pressure you have a mix of hydraulic and pneumatic pressure
"PIS stands for Punto di Incipiente Slittamento or, in English, Point of Initial Slip and is a parameter that (in simple terms) tells the TCU where the bite point of the clutch starts. It is measured in mm and would typically be in the region of 4mm to 5mm" quote from Aldous Voice "Ferrari 360 F1 System"
Thank you ... Is PIS adjustable on a 430? I read that this may be the cause of my car not going into reverse from neutral when hot. It works fine when the engine is first started. However, I have been unable to duplicate the problem even after driving the car long enough for any heat to affect the system.
