oh, forgot to mention, i replaced this microswitch Q with a new one already. nothing happens.
Update on my observation. firstly I am not 100% understanding the issue OP had, I am thinking it is the same as my problem. To be honest, in a hunch, I don't think the OP solved his issue. He might think he solved his issue and never come back? Mr. Bock , can you confirm? Here's new and updated observation on my CS: 1. if I roll up my passenger window completely, the pre-drop will not work, from both outside handle and inside handle. If you force the door open, it will open and the pre-drop will happen after the door opens. 2. if I tap the roll down button slightly and the window rolls down just a tiny bit ( from outside you can't see any gap), the pre-drop will work perfectly, both from outside and inside handle. 3. driver door window pre-drop works perfectly. I've looked at the connection at the door hinge and it seems to be fine. I was thinking it is an reset issue, but i didn't know how to reset it. Any ideas?
Hey, I thought I commented on my window fix, anyway, sorry. Since I sold my 360 last year, I don't come to This Forum as much. I was told by a Master Ferrari Mechanic to check and clean the connectors at the door hinges. Connectors are always the weak link in any electrical wiring system. I carefully brushed both pieces with a small brass brush. May want to disconnect the battery as there is live juice there. After the brushing, I sprayed them down with electrical contact cleaner and let them dry out. Also plug and unplug them a few times to wipe the contacts. I coated the thin o-ring with a small amount of silicone grease to seal the connector halves together. Don't get any grease on the metal contacts!!!! My window problem was solved right there. Good Luck with your windows
yea, i know. i read the thread in full. And I used to think i fixed my issue as well, hence I think you didn't really fix yours. You sold your car strengthens my theory. It was really intermittent and both u and me could be confused by thinking it was fixed.
I am having the same issue, I cleaned the connector, I replaced both micro switches and still nothing. But I did notice that the outside micro switch wire leads to the door lock. When I disconnect it from the passenger side (which works perfectly fine) it stops dropping down when I open the door or close it. I'm starting to think the issue is the door lock it self where the outside micro switch is connected to. That door lock makes the window drop, if you stick your finger in the lock from the outer side of the door and push it down manually, you'll see the window goes up even if the door is open. Any updates on yours??
no update on mine. question for u : does your pre-drop work at all , no matter when it pre-drops? i mean, my problem is not that it doesn't drop. my problem is it pre-drops at the wrong time (after the door was opened)
update on 2 accounts 1st, i replaced my CS windows control ecu with a known good late production 360 ecu ( the green box). nothing happens 2nd, I tried to look at the diagrams again and it looks like I was overlooking one thing: there's a microswitch called by ferrari "window position microswitch" on the fsm. Since my pre-drop works fine if I roll down the window just a tiny bit. I am thinking it might has something to do with this switch not being activated at the correct position. so that's what i am going to do next : take a look at the mechamism of this switch. in the pic: 13 is the power window motor connector. 14 is the "window position microswitch", 15 is the internal handle microswitch Image Unavailable, Please Login
Late model modena and CS window ecu. they are different, but modena ecu works fine on my cs Image Unavailable, Please Login
My car does this. The passenger side is fine, but the driver's side hesitates before the window drops. I had the doors shimmed as they were sagging a bit, and that didn't help, but the doors close with a satisfying chunk now. This is down my to-do list quite a way though.
The passenger side door was fine, but the driver's side door was sagging enough that it was wearing through the paint on the door jamb. Just raised it a few millimeters with a couple shims.
update, new observation It seems that taking off the door panel cures this problem. put the door panel on, the problem resuems. Can it be a physical touch or squeeze something that causes this? I'll have to investigate further. Please note this is a CS, the door panel of which is different than a modena.
So when you take off the door panel, the inside door handle switch is disconnected and you are only operating the outside handle, correct?
no. CS's door panel has no wires whatsoever, it is stand alone. The only "interaction" with the door frame and the control stuff is the physical contact between the door panel and the door frame/wires. interesting , isn't it? So i wonder if a physical press causes it. will update later.
I would still look at the inside door handle microswitch. That is a normally closed switch (NC). The nub on the bottom of the door handle is supposed to keep it open by depressing the switch lever when in resting position. When the door handle is rotated to open the door, the nub moves away and the switch closes the circuit. If that nub never depresses the switch lever, the window will not pre-drop. At least, that's the way it works in my Modena. I am wondering if the installation of you door card somehow interferes with the operation of the inner handle switch. You can check that easily by putting the door panel back on, but unplugging the inner door handle switch.
I'm having a similar issue with my driver's side door window on my 612. Window drops then raises while the door is still open. Sometimes it re-lowers and some times it doesn't . If I'm not paying attention I've shut the door with the window up and that's not good. If I tap the door handle inside or out the window will correct and lower. When I shut the door it raises correctly. Very annoying. I will check out a few fixes suggested in this thread . I already had the micro-switch changed , it wasn't the issue.
If your widow raises with the door open, something is telling the ECU that the door is closed. I would check the door latch microswitch inside the lock mechanism. It can be checked with an ohmeter.
in a quiet place, the microswitch will give a clicking sound. so i am sure microswitch is fine, plus it was replaced with a new one a few days ago. 2 more facts 1. the pre-drop does work. It is just not dropped at the right time ( drops after door was opened) 2. when it is not working right, both inside door latch and outside door latch are not working right at the same time.
You probably changed the switch attached to the door latch handle. The latch switch I am talking about is inside the door lock mechanism itself. You would have to take the mechanism apart to change that switch. I am not even sure it can be done. Usually, the whole lock mechanism is replaced.
Let’s make sure we are talking about the same switch. In your post #50 you said you replaced switch “Q”. But that’s the outside door handle switch. Did you also replace the inside door handle switch, item 19, table 115 in the CS parts diagram? What I was suggesting is that you unplug this switch temporarily to see if it affects anything. If it doesn’t, then you have at least eliminated it, which will simplify troubleshooting. In essence, the signal from either door switch is not reaching your ECU. Once you force the door open, the lock striker switch tells the ECU that the door is now open, which causes the ECU to issue a “post-drop” command. The trick is to find out why the pre-drop signal is not reaching the ECU. Since these two switches are wired in parallel, either switch malfunctioning will affect the other.That's why unplugging the inner door switch simplifies things. The other possibility might be the window position switch being out of adjustment. I have never worked with this switch myself, so I can’t give any practical advice, but I believe that if that switch is not in the correct position, the pre-drop will not happen
no, i didnt replace the inside latch microswitch. when you are saying the lock striker switch, are you saying the microswitch at the center of the door paneL? anyway, update: I fixed my car! i removed my window regulator on my other car and installed on my CS Voila. everything fixed. but I am still wondering why removing the door card temporarily solved the issue for like 30 min, and problem resumes again. I mean, even removing the top rear screw will solve the issue temporarily. ( 6 screws to secure the door card panel to the door frame)
Yes, it’s the microswitch inside the door lock mechanism. It tells the ECU if the door is open or closed. If that switch were bad, you would see the symptoms reported by the poster above with the 612 problems. Those symptoms are consistent with the ECU believing the door is always closed. If a new regulator solved the problem, the culprit was probably a miss-adjusted window position switch. That switch is mounted on the outside of the regulator opposite the motor. It should be adjusted to trip when the window drops about an inch. Without actually seeing your door geometry, I can only speculate that the CF door shell was somehow making physical contact with the regulator, knocking the position switch further out of alignment. You can look at the old regulator to see if anything looks amiss around the switch. That area is fairly exposed and the switch could have accumulated some road gunk. Here is a picture of a used regulator with a lot of cruddy build-up on the switch. Image Unavailable, Please Login
ok, I saw this switch inside the door card, the window position switch. What's the mechanism behind it? If the switch is "tripped", what does it tell the ECU?
