Hi Folks Just looking for some possible cause for engine noise.(valve noise frequency) It sounds just like a valve out of adjustment, so I had the valves check, all were within spec. The next thing I will look at is the valve timing, I am going to do the timing belt, tensioner pulley and the water pump this winter anyway. I hope that will fix the ticking. If not, is anyone aware of 308 2 valve engine having any valve train weakness. IE: valve guides slipping etc. or possibly another cause that sounds just like a valve. I did have the engine/transmission overhauled 20,000 miles ago and stainless steel valves were installed. Any advice well be appreciated Thanks Mark
Most likely AC belt snapping due to setting for a while. Had this happen to my QV after sitting for two months. About had heart failure when I first heard it! Let the car warm up for a bit, belt will become pliable again hand noise will go away. Very common.
Does your car have emission parts. My car developed a tiny air leak in the air rail that sounded like valve ticking. I patched it with a piece of aluminum and a small hose clamp. I found replacement air rails but no time to install yet.
Putting a petroleum-based product on a rubber belt isn't the best idea... If the belt is making noise, I'd recommend finding the root cause of the problem and addressing it. IE, replace the belt, the pulley, etc.
It's a good idea if you want to quickly find the problem. If it's not the problem, I wouldn't worry too much about 10W oil staying on there very long.
Negative. The AC belt is known to cause this tapping noise. There is a plastic component to the belt that makes this tapping noise when it cracks. Sounds like a valve hitting a piston. Spraying WD-40 on the belt will make the noise go away. This is called a test. Once the problem has been clearly identified, of course the belt should be replaced. I didn't think that part would need to be explained.
Thanks folks, I will look at that, never thought that the AC belt could be an issue. I am replacing the timing belts this winter. I think while I am in there I will have a good look at everything and replace the belts on spec. I am also going to boroscope the cylinders to check for damage, if anything for my own piece of mind. Thanks guys Mark
That will teach you to think! Explain everything! ;-) [QUOTE="spicedriver, post: 146268436, member: 100735" snip Spraying WD-40 on the belt will make the noise go away. This is called a test. Once the problem has been clearly identified, of course the belt should be replaced. I didn't think that part would need to be explained. [/QUOTE]
When my waterpump went bad it also made a ticking noise. Once I put the HD stethoscope on it (5/8 pvc pipe from HD) it was clear this was the problem.
It's a very common noise on any 308 engine given the angles for the belts. Cold belts exacerbates the issue. Rather than WD40, there is a CRC BELT CONDITIONER which is a better solution as it does not add grease/oil to the belt. Will solve the problem for an extended period of time.
Have you checked your exhaust manifold joints? A blowing joint can sound just like a mechanical ticking if it’s only a small leak and the frequency would match your description. Paul
I had a ticking that turned out to be a nut missing from the exhaust header. Had to put up on a lift to discover it. IMO NEVER use WD/40 on a timing belt. A spray bottle with water in it would work for a belt test. Try looking for the simple issues before running off to the dealer.
Thanks guys, I will take a look at everything you folks have suggested. Like I mentioned I'm replacing my timing belts and associated hardware/parts this winter. Checking the AC should be fairly easy. I will just remove the belt. I'm really hoping it is nothing internal/ fingers crossed. Once again, thanks guys for all the helpful info. Cheers Mark
Hi folks Thanks for the replies. However, I found that my problem could have been far more catastrophic. While doing the timing belt change I found that the lower drive pulley for the front bank was improperly installed by the company that did my last service. The "key" that locates the drive pulley onto the shaft was improperly installed allowing the pulley to move and over the course of a few thousand miles it slowly wore out a space on the inside of the pulley. The drive pulley was moving 27 degrees back and forth on the shaft. So you can imagine what that did to my timing. I always felt that one side of the engine was fighting the other. To the plus, all compression checks are good and a boroscope of the cylinders are good. Counting my blessing. Looking forward to this years driving season Cheers Mark