308 Antenna mast replacement suggestion | Page 2 | FerrariChat

308 Antenna mast replacement suggestion

Discussion in '308/328' started by SaratogaCA, Dec 22, 2017.

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  1. SaratogaCA

    SaratogaCA Formula Junior

    Sep 11, 2016
    319
    Saratoga, CA
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    Sam T.
    #26 SaratogaCA, Nov 4, 2018
    OK, a status update. I was hoping to keep my OEM Hirschmann unit, and wanted to just replace the mast. Most masts came with a toothed cord. I searched high and low and found one with a smooth cord.

    The Youtube videos and written instructions said you can simply remove the old antenna by pulling it out, and then feed the cord from the new antenna into the hole, and run the motor, and the cord will get sucked in, and voila!

    Alas, it did not work out that way. The old antenna cord could not just be pulled out. We opened up the unit, and found that the cord was attached to the motor with a cotter pin. We undid the cotter pin, connected the cord from the new antenna, but after all this, it did not work correctly. The sleeve and the mounting unit did not fit correctly.

    So I purchased this product:


    Once installed, the power antenna still did not work. We confirmed that we get voltage to the antenna. We hear a click in the antenna when we throw the switch up and down. But the antenna does not move.

    My thoughts:

    Clearly, these systems have a simple way to stop the motor when the antenna is fully extended or fully retracted. I surmise that whatever mechanism they use to stop the motor, it is being triggered, and it is stopping the motor.

    Any suggestions?



    - Sam in Saratoga
     
  2. thorn

    thorn F1 Rookie
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    Aug 7, 2012
    3,322
    Tallahassee, FL
    #27 thorn, Nov 4, 2018
    Could be a defective unit. The first aftermarket one I installed was DOA, and retailer replaced it.
     
  3. mxstav@comcast.net

    [email protected] Karting

    Nov 24, 2005
    200
    Green Oaks, IL
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    Mark Stavropoulos
    #28 [email protected], Nov 4, 2018
    I bought a similar antenna. The new antenna has 3 wires, a power and a ground connection plus a switch connection. As long as there is power to the switched input line, the antenna extends. When power is removed the antenna retracts. The original 308 antenna has a ground wire plus two more input wires. One wire, when battery is applied extends the antenna. The other wire, when battery is applied retracts the antenna. If battery is not applied to either wire (i.e. switch is not pressed in either direction), the antenna stops. So, what is needed is a latch to convert the momentary push of the switch into a constant battery output to keep battery voltage at the antenna when the switch is pushed to the extended direction. When the switch is pushed to the retract position, it removes battery to the antenna wire allowing it to retract. I built a circuit board to do this. If you want one, let me know.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. SaratogaCA

    SaratogaCA Formula Junior

    Sep 11, 2016
    319
    Saratoga, CA
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    Sam T.
    #29 SaratogaCA, Nov 4, 2018
    Actually, as I was reading the Amazon reviews, I realized that the control wiring on this product is not plug-and-play compatible with the Ferrari circuit, exactly for the reason you said.

    Here is a quote from an Amazon user:


    This is not really an OEM replacement ... The wiring is not directly compatible. As received this unit requires an always on 12V source, and an "UP" signal from the radio when it is on. It is possible to re-solder the wires on the relay to allow the antenna to work with the original connector and radio control lines. Once installed and rewired the antenna works fine, at least for nearly a month.


    So, this user apparently re-soldered the existing circuitry to accomplish the same thing. Do you have an opinion about how this can be done?

    Also, how much would the circuit you build cost?

    And a follow-up question: With your circuit, is it possible to extend the antenna only partially? It seems to me that if your circuit latches the up signal, it can only extend the antenna all the way.


    Thanks,
    Sam in Saratoga
     
  5. rjlloyd

    rjlloyd Formula Junior
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    Jun 19, 2014
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Richard Lloyd
    #30 rjlloyd, Nov 4, 2018


    Have a look at this post, may help
    The diode option on a fully automatic antenna worked great for me

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/early-semi-auto-antenna-question.3390/page-3
     
  6. mxstav@comcast.net

    [email protected] Karting

    Nov 24, 2005
    200
    Green Oaks, IL
    Full Name:
    Mark Stavropoulos
    #31 [email protected], Nov 5, 2018

    There is no relay in the Ferrari. The wires from the switch go to a small junction block behind the trunk and then to the antenna. My board does not require any cutting of existing wiring. One needs to add a battery line and a ground line. I ran a wire through the firewall (with the other wires going into the trunk) and to the ignition coils to pick up battery. The wire is not visible. The ground i connected to a screw on the trunk latch. I hid the circuit board behind the panel between the trunk and the tail lights, where the antenna wiring is already. Once installed it is invisible. Unfortunately, there is no way to stop the antenna in the middle of travel; the antenna is either all the way up, or all the way down.
    The photo shows the wires coming from the switch and going to the antenna. A small, insulating housing was snapped over each wire where they connect on th original harness. My board connects in between.
    I can send you one for $20 shipped.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  7. SaratogaCA

    SaratogaCA Formula Junior

    Sep 11, 2016
    319
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    Sam T.
    #32 SaratogaCA, Nov 6, 2018
    Thanks. But I think the diode solution will work fine. I will pick up a diode tomorrow and try to install it.

    I will provide updates to this thread when done.


    - Sam in Saratoga
     
  8. 4re308

    4re308 F1 Rookie

    Jun 13, 2001
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    Woodstock, GA
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    Mitch D
    #33 4re308, Nov 7, 2018
    Very informative thread, thanks for the updates guys!
     
    Milkshaker0007 likes this.
  9. redline76

    redline76 Formula Junior

    Feb 26, 2008
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    Warren V
    #34 redline76, Nov 8, 2018
  10. SaratogaCA

    SaratogaCA Formula Junior

    Sep 11, 2016
    319
    Saratoga, CA
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    Sam T.
    #35 SaratogaCA, Dec 22, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2018
    OK, a status update.

    First, a quick recap: Antenna bent. Sam unhappy. Wanted to keep OEM Hirschamnn unit and just replace mast. Looked everywhere for mast. Turns out Hirschmann requires a mast with a smooth nylon cord. About 90% of masts on market have toothed cord, so won't work. Sam eventually finds smooth cord with no teeth. Tried pulling out the old antenna and mast, but cord was stuck. Opened Hirschamm unit, found cord attached by cotter pin. Removed cotter pin, removed cord and mast. Attached new antenna mast. Antenna mast had sleeves that were incompatible with mounting hole. No work. Sam unhappy. Bought a new unit.

    The new unit, as discussed above, is not plug and play compatible. It requires a constant 12 V, a ground, and an up signal generated automatically by car radio. When up signal wire carries voltage, antenna goes up. When no voltage, antenna goes down. Ferrari circuitry has 2 wires, controlled by a switch in the cockpit. Switch is biased neutral, but when thrown up or down, the switch generates voltage to antenna. This means you can extend the antenna partially from inside the cockpit, a feature impossible with the replacement.

    There are two known solutions.

    1- a latch circuit: [email protected] came up with a circuit that latches the signal from the switch in the cockpit, and generates a constant 12V. It generates an up signal to the antenna when the switch is moved up. When neutral, the circuit maintains the up signal. When switch is moved down, the circuit cuts the up signal. The circuit works, but you cannot partially extend the antenna.

    2- a diode: A simple diode fixes this issue by generating 12V and up signal when switch is is up. When switch is neutral, no power goes to antenna, so no movement. When switch is down, the diode generates 12V and no up signal, and antenna goes down.

    It is a very simple circuit, but I put some pix below just for fun.
     
  11. SaratogaCA

    SaratogaCA Formula Junior

    Sep 11, 2016
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    Sam T.
    #36 SaratogaCA, Dec 22, 2018
  12. SaratogaCA

    SaratogaCA Formula Junior

    Sep 11, 2016
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    Saratoga, CA
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    Sam T.
    #37 SaratogaCA, Dec 22, 2018
  13. SaratogaCA

    SaratogaCA Formula Junior

    Sep 11, 2016
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    Saratoga, CA
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    Sam T.
    #38 SaratogaCA, Dec 22, 2018
  14. Sobergreg

    Sobergreg Rookie
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    Nov 8, 2016
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    #39 Sobergreg, Dec 25, 2018
     
  15. Portofino

    Portofino Formula Junior

    Sep 17, 2011
    576
    Yorkshire UK / Switzerland/ Liguria ( Italy )
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    Portofino
    #40 Portofino, Dec 25, 2018
    I have recently replaced an aftermarket one that went up when the radio was switched on and retracted automatically when it was off .
    I put back a Velox OEM €65 from Germany.

    What a previous owner did wiring wise , was disconnect the console switch and use one lead to supply the constant 12 v ( tapped from the radio fed + ve ) and the other for the blue wire from the modern radio to send the up signal for an automatic function.

    So I found a period radio , fitted a Velox and reconnected the console switch to work as it should , Fwds for up and back to rectract .
    Middle position stops it where it is .
    From memory the two wire from the centre console switch that go back to the aerial are red and white stripes .They are supposed to send +ve feed back .

    But as said you can use those wires if you disconnect the switch to send a+ ve back and use the other to connect to the blue auto aerial wire on a modern auto rise / fall radio .

    No diodes needed .
     
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  16. leslie_choo

    leslie_choo Formula Junior

    Aug 5, 2012
    422
    Singapore
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    BCChoo
    #41 leslie_choo, Aug 8, 2020
    Hi all , my 308 RHD GTS Europe version doesn’t come with the antenna at the rear . But I want my antenna switch function at my dash to work and not act like a dummy. Where shall I drill the hole to install the antenna ? Is there a ready template I could get somewhere ? Or anyone has done it and have the measurement ? Thanks

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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17. thorn

    thorn F1 Rookie
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    Aug 7, 2012
    3,322
    Tallahassee, FL
    #42 thorn, Aug 9, 2020
    I would far more prefer the switch do nothing, than drill a perfect car and install an antenna that probably isn't necessary. Further, many stereos provide the power-out function to the antenna for on/off - which means that even with a powered antenna, a separate switch isn't even needed.

    You can always find some other use for the antenna switch. I use mine to activate the garage door opener.
     
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