1981 308 GTSi rich condition

FWIW. There is a way to check to see if the cam has jumped timing without removing the valve covers. Looks for the TDC mark on the flywheel for the 1-4 bank under the inspection cover. Bring the engine to TDC and see if the #1 cylinder will hold air pressure. You can do the same with the #5 cylinder as well. Remember to rotate the engine one turn as needed to make sure you are at TDC and not on exhaust stroke. This should give you some idea if the cam timing has jumped compare results from 1 to 5.

 

At TDC on the compression stroke both intake and exhaust valves are closed and have been or will remain closed for a while. The exhaust won't open until about 130 after TDC and the intake will have been closed since about 130 degrees before TDC. Jumping a few teeth won't matter. So unless the belts have jumped a lot of teeth, the valves will still be close at TDC on compression. If a belt has jumped enough to have a valve open at TDC on compression, you probably have bigger problems, like bent valves.

I'll revise that a little. If it were the exhaust cam that jumped, then then it would close late and you would probably have a bent exhaust valve. So then you might see the inability to hold pressure. But, obviously, much bigger problems,.

 

John, I agree with your analysis. What I may not have said clearly is compare cylinder 1 to 5. Check the range in degrees the crank can be rotated before and after TDC and hold pressure. If it is different in crank degrees you could have a tooth or more.

 

That's reasonable. A bit of a pain in the butt, but it should work. I'd suggest using the cam timing to check the angles. As I posted, exhaust opens about 130 after TDC and intake closes about 130 before TDC. But check actually cam timing specs for exact numbers. They are different on Euro and US cars and probably different on carb cars, 2V injected and QVs.

 

Thanks for the update. Hope it all works out for you.

 

May I ask which hole is it? here every day you learn something…

Thank you very much!

ciao

 

The hole is on the fuel distributor. From memory it is located next to the air cleaner on top of the fuel distributor. You remove the plug (screw) to adjust the idle mixture and then reseal it to check air-fuel mixture.

 

That is not the fuel distributor, it is the air flow meter, the part the fuel distributor is bolted to.
You need to contact me and I can go over the injection with you I have a pretty good idea the seals in the fuel distributor are going bad.

Larry Fletcher
CIS Flow Tech