New owner with ventilation problem | Page 3 | FerrariChat

New owner with ventilation problem

Discussion in '348/355' started by Skiday, Feb 22, 2016.

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  1. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
    111
    Isle of Wight, UK
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    Andrew Day
    Well I thought I was on to something when I previously tested the post connector 'to earth' black and got no reading, but I tested it again just now and it does connect to earth. I have carefully connected everything back together, but there is still no movement in the actuator,so I guess now we have to conclude the fault is within the ecu so I shall order a new chip and get it installed. If all else fails at the end of all this then I might be tempted to hook up a cable to the drum and have a hidden knob to change the air direction manually.

    In a flash of inspiration I realised why the earth out of the actuator is green and not the black (probably). Any one who took the actuator out to bench test would automatically (unless they knew otherwise) apply 12v to the red and black (just as I did), so if the earth were black then that would ruin the motor. In making the two wires that test & turn the motor black and red you 'idiot proof' it.
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
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    The motor is reversible and the direction is controlled by the ECU. The motor is not simply looking for an earth on the chassis. The earth and power for the motor is provided inside the ECU.
    It's quite common to see wiring colour changes at sensor/actuator plugs (at least on Ferraris). Your theory on red/black may be correct...

    Sorry to hear that the faulty ground theory didn't work out. It would have been a cheap fix. Can you be sure it's not an intermittent problem? i.e. if you move the harness, the ground comes and goes?
    The previous owner probably had similar issues with faultfinding. I wonder if he swapped out an ECU?
     
  3. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
    111
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    Andrew Day
    You have provided the answer as to why I had no earth yesterday and now I do. Yesterday the ECU was unplugged and I got no earth. Today it is plugged in and I have earth. It had not occurred to me that the earth is provided by the ECU as the black wire does not go to it directly. I had just assumed it would be a permanent connection to general chassis earth. I have just tested it again to check and sure enough I had earth (ECU connected), then I unplugged the ECU and I have no earth. Mystery solved.
     
  4. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Dec 22, 2011
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    We were earlier talking about the Green wire out of the actuator that, after changing to Black in the round connector, should go to the ground. This wire should have connection to the ground all the time, i.e. irrespective of whether the AC ECU is connected or not (see the diagram below). The Black wire out of the actuator (changing to White/Black in the round connector) does not go directly to ground but to the AC ECU.

    Another bench test that you should do on the actuator (before going to the microchips) is to check its potentiometer:

    1. Connect an ohmmeter to Yellow & Green - you should get a reading of probably 5 Kohm
    2. Connect an ohmmeter to Yellow & Violet/Black - you should get a reading of less than 5 Kohm (if the reading under 1. was 5 Kohm)
    3. Connect an ohmmeter to Green & Violet/Black - you should get a reading of less than 5 Kohm (if the reading under 1. was 5 Kohm)

    The sum of the readings under 2. and 3. should equal the reading under 1. If the reading under 1. gives you a different Kohm value, the same principle apples.

    Then, to verify correct operation of the potentiometer, connect an ohmmeter to Yellow & Violet/Black (analogue ohmmeter is better for this test) and, using a battery on the Red and Black wires of the actuator, rotate the shaft in one direction and the other and watch the Kohms change, rising and falling depending on the direction of rotation. The Kohm changes should be smooth, without the ohmmeter needle jumping up and down.

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  5. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Feb 18, 2008
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    Grant
    Thats what they are telling us Jay
     
  6. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Curiouser and curiouser... I wonder if Ferrari made a mistake with the diagram and the 355 is like the 348? In the 348 diagram, no external earth is shown for the sensors, just a kind of an earth splice or bus bar linked back to the ECU.
    The engine Motronics ECU also has at least one common earth inside the ECU for some of the engine components, but I seem to recall the internal earth is not connected to the chassis.

    Of course, if there is an earth, thn perhaps it needs cleaning (but if you are getting an earth through the ECU, does it really matter if there is an external earth?).
     
  7. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
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    Andrew Day
    OK, I'm no expert with the multimeter, but I put the dial on the '20K' setting and this is what I got;

    1. Yellow to Green; 2.11
    2. Yellow to Violet/Black; 0.60
    3. Green to Violet/Black; 1.54

    Sum of 1. +2. =...............2.14 (almost equal to 1.)

    With the second test, on applying power to the Black and Red and connecting a ohmmeter (still set to 20k) to the Yellow and Purple/Black. The reading rose and fell nice and smoothly depending on direction from 0.6 to 2.11. I trust this means the potentiometer is good.
     
  8. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    So it is a 2 Kohm potentiometer (or thereabouts). All looks good so you can now go to the microchips. I presume you have already removed the new harness and re-connected the original wires.
     
  9. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
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    Andrew Day
    I would remove the new loom, but the old wires were cut too close to the end of the sheathing for there to be enough to get hold of to make a new connection without stripping back quite a bit, so as I've tested the wires and they are all good I shall let sleeping dogs lie. I have introduced bullet connectors at the actuator end whereas they were hard wired before, which means I can now easily remove the actuator if wanted. My offer of £35 for the chip was accepted so I should get that in a couple of days, then I have to find someone to fit it locally. I'll check back in when that is done.
     
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  10. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    I checked on my 348 and the "reference point for sensors" is not connected to the ground but just bolted to the side of the (plastic) evaporator box. One wire from the reference point goes into the AC ECU and it may be, inside, connected directly to ground via the AC ECU's ground wire or it may be an "electronic ground" - a kind of baseline reference point not hard wired to the ground but grounded through part of the electronics (maybe a diode ?). I am unable to check this as I have completely modified my AC ECU which is not using any of the sensors.
     
  11. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #61 Qavion, Nov 22, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2018
    Thanks, Miro... I'll add that detail to my 348 diagram. By evaporator box, do you mean the part outside the cabin in the forward luggage compartment?

    F348 HVAC Wiring Diagram
     
  12. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Yes, the part of the box in the luggage compartment. On my RHD car, it is on the RHS, near the AC relays and the "hidden fuse"; might be on the opposite side on the LHD cars.
     
  13. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
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    Andrew Day
    Latest update;

    The new chip arrived and I had it put into (in no. 6 position) the HVAC ecu by an electronic repair shop. I put it back into the car and - nothing. The actuator still doesn't move, the only difference is I'm £65 worse off! The only thing I have not done is run the engine for 10 minutes after connecting the battery as the car is in the garage and the back wheels are off being refurbed, but I have had the ignition on for more than 10 min.

    I'm now at the end of my tether and have no idea what to do now. Very depressing.
     
  14. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
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    Andrew Day
    I just did a battery disconnect and reconnect and engine run for 10 min with A/C off (& garage doors open). Still nothing.
     
  15. F355Bob

    F355Bob Formula 3

    I've had the same problem for 6-7 years and never could resolve it. Had a new ECU and it did not help. Had my old one rechiped and nothing. Somewhere it is loosing a signal. Often wondered about a bad ground or bad sensor somewhere. I just leave it in the center vent position and don't worry about it. Put a shut off valve to the water valve so always have cold A/C . I don't need heat because I don't drive in winter but just turn the valve and I would have heat. Even on hot days don't need to turn fan speed past 2. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  16. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I guess that leaves some unseen control panel or ECU problem. As far as I know, a sensor shouldn't affect the distribution if it is not in AUTO.

    By the way, have you tried to move the distribution mechanism manually? I'm just wondering if it's jammed and the actuator stalls immediately.
     
  17. F355Bob

    F355Bob Formula 3

    On mine I can rotate the drum with a screwdriver.
     
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  18. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Perhaps one more thing you can try: member J. Salmon posted in an old thread that, when he completely disconnected his non-functional AC control panel (on the centre console), he got all AC functions working in a certain default mode (medium fan speed etc.), including the air direction control that moved to, as he said, the "standard" position which I understand to mean the medium position.

    So, if your currently non-functional air direction flap is not in the medium position at the moment, unplug the AC control panel and switch the ignition on (or start the engine) while watching the air distribution flap. If it then moves to the centre position, you will know that the problem is in your control panel.
     
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  19. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
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    Andrew Day
    I will try that tomorrow. Is there also a way to bench test the control panel, either myself with a multi-meter or by giving it to an expert (if such a person can be found)

    Has anyone with this problem taken their car to a main Ferrari dealer and got them to fix it or are they in the dark as much as we are?

    I could say to hell with it, I'll just leave it in a middle position, but I don't like to live with a car, and certainly cannot sell a car, with an unresolved or unresolvable issue (even though I bought it that way). Plus if I do resolve this the dopamine rush will be incredible:D!!!
     
  20. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
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    Jun 11, 2004
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    Any shop with an SD1 or Sd2 or, I presume SDX should be able to connect to the HAVC diagnostic plug and tell you what they find.
     
  21. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
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    Andrew Day
    If it is the control unit at fault, is it repairable? Surely it's just a box of electronics just as the ecu is. If not, is a second hand unit simply a failure in waiting? I have found one for sale at £1000.
     
  22. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
    111
    Isle of Wight, UK
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    Andrew Day
    I spoke to two people people today on the phone, one a Auto HVAC specialist and the other a mechanic with high-end Italian specialist experience (so he says). They both put it down to the control unit as the likely cause working from my description of the problem. However I have opened up the control box and have tested the switch and found if functions well. I connected a multi-meter across the points as indicated in this photo and as I turned the switch through its settings I found a good low resistance connection from the common earth to the various solder points so I am confident it is not that;

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    Then I checked every single resistor on the other side and every one gave a readout, so I am confident it is not those. But the connector block pin 3 needs power for the unit to send a signal (I presume). The wiring diagram does not indicate which of the pins 4-8 control what, but is it safe to connect power to 3 and neg to 1 and see if signals are being sent that vary on the rotation of the dial? If it is not safe for me to do, could an expert do it?

    Incidentally, I live on an Island, so taking it to a dealer or Ferrari specialist is a larger inconvenience than for most (plus the rear wheels are being refurbed at the moment).

    Thanks, Andrew
     
  23. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I can't see any harm in supplying voltage, but determining what to look for may be problematic. Do you look for resistance or voltage? Open or closed circuit? Can the earth wire be used as a reference. I'm not sure why Ferrari (or the panel manufacturer) chose to have the panel powered (other than for lighting).

    Perhaps Miro can offer some tips on checking the outputs of unknown circuits (so it can be done without damaging the circuit or the meter). When the meter is selected to "resistance", it introduces a voltage which may affect the operation of diodes, damage unprotected semiconductor circuits, etc. Are there any integrated circuits on the circuit board?
     
  24. Skiday

    Skiday Karting

    Feb 22, 2016
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    Isle of Wight, UK
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    Andrew Day
    I would have thought that it is powered because there are 14 switch settings plus a variable heat selection dial and only 5 wires to carry the information to the ecu (via variable voltage). If it were passive you would need a lot more wires. Could it be that of pins 4 - 8 one is common and the other four are for the three dials and recirc button (and the STOP button cuts the common) - makes sense to me.
     
  25. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    5 wires are still enough for variable resistances to be used for 5 functions (as the panel provides an earth on pin 1). However, as there is a voltage being supplied to the panel, one or more outputs are probably voltages. I don't think a common is required (on one of the 5 wires): The ECU and the panel have a common earth.... "70014" (effectively a 6th wire)
     

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