328 Engine Bay Sound Deadening Help!

Henk at, HVL - exclusive Italian Interior (Netherlands) has what you need.

 

The foam is supplied by Isoproq Germany (they also supply the Dutch I believe). Its is an older nice guy and his daughter that are specialised in the older isolation materials. I have done the entire engine bay of my 328 - without taking the engine out - and its absolutely as new.

The material looks identical to the original foam, is matt black, 30kg/m3, 10 mm (4") thick as original and self adhesive (as original). Its for sound isolation in engine bay. The latter is important because of the required temperature resistance. They have deliver the foam in mats of I beleive 1000 x 1500 mm and apply artickle number 193031. Their website is just one page with basically contact details in German but you will be able to communicate in English, otherwise will I be happy to call them for you:
isoproQ - Restaurierungsmaterial, KFZ-Isolierungen ... - ISOLATION IN HÖCHSTER QUALITÄT

below pics of the foam and one showing that i used the old as template for new
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this shows work on the top fron of the engine bay.

Text is Dutch but it shows original old and new Isoproq
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both rear and fron have double isolation foam that seems to be same and 10 mm thick.

In the rear i replaced both, at the front i only replaced the outer part since the inner foam was hard to reach and not too bad.

you will see that i was working at that time also around the motor and all hoses were removed (and replaced for new in 2015).
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the rear shows all old foam removed, the first layer (several parts) and the 2nd (outer layer).
Also a pic of the template I made with paper sheets (A4 size) and tape that was build up slowly until covering the total surface and than removed from the engine bay and used as template to cut the Isoproq foam to the right size.
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and the final pics.
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The foam between my engine and bulkhead literally fell out last year. How did you guys replace it without taking the engine out? Did you need a lift to raise the car and offer the insulation material up from underneath or drop it down from the top?

 

Removed engine to do it and other things...... HVL Insulation
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Under the hood. Henk does take his time to get back to people, but he does..... Tell him he supplied Rocco from Toronto.
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Does this make a real difference in sound level?


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It is not the sound, it is the heat.

 

Menno
That looks a brilliant finish on your engine bay using those sheets.
A long shot I know but do you still have the paper templates you made??

That would save a lot of time and effort if I could get a copy from you and im sure others would also appreciate it.
Like most other 308/328 owners my firewall material is in a shocking state hanging all down and torn.
I did contemplate scraping it all off some how and just leaving it, but thought best to leave it in original "used" condition but after seeing your solution I'm impressed how great it looks.
The boot section look easy enough to do
But the firewall end with the engine still in, is it possible ??
Hence do you have the template still
Thanks
Paul

 

Was just referring to the title of the thread.


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Oh yes ...

one of my 328 had no insulation when I purchased it. Once replaced, the noise was slightly different.
But without, the heat rises much faster and higher

 

+1

And how to do it ?

when I asked my mechanic has to change one of the passenger side without removing the engine, his face has changed ....

 

Paul and Bertrand, I am sorry but both templates are not available anymore. The firewall (in front of the engine) is of course much harder to do than the rear wall. The firewall cannot be done without making the firewall better reachable which in my case was accomplished by removing the engine bonnet and removing all hard and flexible hoses/tubes on top of the engine.
Nevertheless is also the rear wall needing patience but will become a great cosmetic upgrade of the engine bay.

steps:
1. remove the cooling water overflow tank and detach the engine support and all other parts fixed to the rear wall. See attached picture.
2. remove the old top layer of foam if not disappeared yet. Below the top layer is a 2nd layer of foam in 3 compartments that needs removed carefully in order to use is as template. This 2nd layer is mostly still stable enough to keep its shape.
3. cut 3 new 2nd layer parts using the old ones as template.
4. clean the rear wall (steel panel in the colour of your 3x8). this means removing the old adhesive which is time consuming requiring much towels or paper and white spirit or the more agressive thinner. I used both and thinner works somewhat better and had no issues with the paint of the rear panel.
5. The new 2nd layer foam can be installed (easy job). You will notice that the adhesive on the backside of the new foam is real strong so try hard to put in in the right position from the very start.
6. Now you have to make the template for which I used many sheets of standard size printer paper (A4 size in Europe). Start in a corner with one sheet that you cut with scissors to the right shape and fix it in its position against the rear wall panel with Scotch tape. Than take the next paper sheet Ensure the holes (for mounting bolts) get in the right position and fix it with scotch tape in its position to the other paper sheets etc. This continuous untill the area that needs covered with the new top foam sheet is done so that all paper sheets for the template. Than take the template out and cut the top foam to size.
7. to install the large self adhesive foam sheet I have cut the adhesive protection film in 2 (or maybe even 3) vertical parts. Start in the middle and remove slowly the film by pulling it upwards.

Job done! Just put all the stuff back in place and enjoy the achievements

 

Thanks for the breakdown Menno.
I don't really notice and difference in sound or heat now it's gone. But it was so old and battered it probably wasn't providing much insulation before anyway.

 

Paul, I can give you a UK supplier of the silicone foam but I am away on holiday at the moment.

Note that ordinary nitrile rubber foam won't work as the heat from the exhaust is too much and will burn the material.

 

Yes please,
Enjoy your hols and give me a shout when back, cheers

 

Please also let me know, we are just ready to replace the foam.

Regards Marc.

 

I found the info. It was type number FT-400S , 12mm thick from Foam Manufacturer, Foam Convertor UK - foamtechniques.co.uk.
It comes in 1000 mm width so to get enough length for the span widthways I had to order 1200mm.

I think Alfer is correct though, above, in that 10mm is the correct thickness so probably best to go with that.

This product is a dark charcoal grey. It matches the "aged" colour of the original but if the original came out of the factory as totally black then it might not be an exact match for "as new" original.

 

Can anyone tell me how much material is required to complete the replacement?
Thanks
Simon

 

Hallo Alfer. mooi uitgelegd top. Ik heb zopas een 328 aangekocht en hij heeft zelfde probleem. Isolatie valt letterlijk uit elkaar. Nu lees ik onder jouw fotos ook dat de isolatie eigenlijk silicone based moet zijn zoniet zou ze niet aan de hoge temp weerstaan. Ik dacht niet dat wat jij gebruikte eerder geluidsisolatie was. We zijn enkele jaren verder sinds jouw project, mag ik vragen of wat jij gebruikte de tand des tijds goed heeft doorstaan?
Alvast bedankt Chris