thanks. but do you know what the difference betwwen 233100 and 194909? they are both F1 pump relay but different part number. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-430-599-50-AMP-Relay-P-N-233100/132877603912?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FERRARI-GENUINE-ORIGINAL-F1-PUMP-RED-RELAY-50A-F430-355-360-575-599-194909/263998683153?epid=2234450647&hash=item3d778c3811:g:rnYAAOSwbYZXWpZp:rk:13f:0
194909 is the older, original 50amp relay. Probably used in the earliest cars. It was superseded by the 233100. I think they are using 194909 in the listing title just trying to "catch" those buyers using the older part number. You will end up with a 233100 either way, as that is what is pictured in the 194909 listing. Enlarge the photos and look at the part number on the relay, it says 233100 right on top.
I dont have any records of the F1 relay being replaced on my 2007 F430 spider so I would like to change it myself. Do I order part # 233100 from Ebay or an aftermarket 70A or 80A unit that I see for sale on Ebay as an upgrade? Not sure if there is a benefit to upgrading to the higher amp relay... What is the general consensus? Also, is the fuse for the F1 pump 50A or 30A? I saw a YouTube video of someone who has a F430 who changed the fuse from a 30A to 50A.
I believe either will work. I know of a couple owners using the 70amp relay. Note that if you search based on the part number of the actual relay, you can find it (for a Ranger Rover) you can get it for around $15 to $20. It is hard to read, but enlarge the photo and you can barely make out the part number...I can't find it now (I had it written down at one time). Way cheaper that what is being asked for the "Ferrari" listing of the relay. Found it! Search using this "YWB500220" $11.31 on Ebay. Careful, please double check and make sure this is correct, I don't want to be responsible for a typo or error. I stuck with the factory 50amp. My thought is (depending on how long I keep the car), I'm going to replace this relay every 5 or 6 years regardless of 50 or 70amp, so figure to stick with the factory part.
Just so everyone knows. I just bought an accumulator for my 16M on eBay using the Alfa part number. I don't need it right now as my shifter is performing flawlessly. This is just for peace of mind in case it needs to be swapped out. It is the EXACT same unit as the Ferrari supplied part, minus the little black horsey on the box. I paid $150 for it, including shipping. It is $425 from Ricambi, and a whopping $1269 from Algar. A lot of money for a little black horsey. I had the same thing happen when I changed spark plugs. I got the plugs for $9 each on Amazon. They were $34 each from Ricambi. A little searching for parts can pay huge dividends.
Yep, i did the same. The accumulator is a pure Alfa part. Actually, on some parts on the F1-system it says "Selespeed".
Excellent information! Similar to you my F1 system on my 2006 F430 Spider works perfectly. No fault beeps and primes in about 5 seconds when I open the door but I will go ahead and order an accumulator and have it changed preventively when I have my F1 system serviced again next year. Same situation here with spark plugs. I bought mine from Amazon and changed mine just two weeks ago and saved good money. Thanks again for sharing great info. Dan Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Just a word of warning about parts (not necessarily Ferrari branded ones): there are now a lot of Chinese fakes on the market - Bosch, NGK, etc. If it looks too cheap to be true sadly it now probably is.
Very true, especially spark plugs. Go to NGK website and it will tell you how to tell the difference between originals and knock offs.
The beeping is still driving me crazy. Haven´t had time yet to remove the ECU-unit, the other day I came up to the car, unlocked it and saw that the ECU had logged an error 1. The error 1 means that the pump has been running for too long on some occasion. There was no error indicated when i parked the car the night before. I drove the car to the shop for diagnostics and not a single problem once again. No leaks and the pressure accumulator is new. The ECU have not indicated the error again despite 4 hours of very spirited driving the other day. Should i be worried or should i trust the Ferrari specialist telling me not to worry?
Trust the ferrari specialist! These solid state relays are a dealerships greatest friend, making it seem there are problems when there are not.
Thanks. Been driving the car for two days now without any displayed errors by the ECU. Seems as the parameters for the errors are a bit off.
I installed one of these. I did notice much smoother shifting, but I don't see how the relay could be responsible for that. The install instructions are to disconnect battery. I attribute that to the changing in shifting more than anything.
Wouldn’t that mean, that shifting gets “reset” to smooth every time you disconnect the battery using the trunk-mounted cutoff switch?
I’m a new owner. Shifting always seemed kind of clunky, especially in the lower gears driving on the streets. When I disconnected the battery to put in the relay I did the start up relearn procedure then drove it and was amazed how much smoother the shifts were. I haven’t had the car long enough to disconnect the battery multiple times.
Seems like the monitoring system that is optional is the culprit, and human nature is to over-monitor the device when in fact it may show when there is a variable but the variable is meaningless unless it becomes too frequent. The relay itself is a much better option being solid-state and not mechanical, but the monitor itself is what is adding the frustration. I think if we put monitors on every little thing on the car expecting the owners to react every time something breaches a variable, we'd never drive the cars I was considering one of these as well, but wonder if there is an option to stop the beeps.
After reading the install info more carefully, there are a number of settings that seem to be able to reduce the frequency of certain alerts and you can also shut off the beeping. Normal ECU operation sounds on/off (default on) Last warning sounds in sleep mode on/off (default on) Maximum pump current sensing tolerance rate (default 50%) Pump normal cycle run time before alert level 1 (default = 4 secs) Idle time before the ECU goes in sleep mode (default = 3 minutes) TCU debounce timing (default 250 msecs) Minimum rest time between pump cycles (default 15 secs) ECU Diagnostics Reset to factory defaults and erase all logged warning counts Display logged hydraulic pump warning counts (if any): 1=Too long hydraulic pump run cycle 2= Hydraulic pump forced shutdown after too long run cycle 3= Hydraulic pump not activated while it was requested by the TCU 4= Hydraulic pump current sense is too low 5= Hydraulic pump current sense is too high 6= Hydraulic pump was running while it shouldn't (not requested by the TCU) 7= Hydraulic pump cycles too frequently 8=Significant vehicle battery voltage drop (in Expert mode only)
The problem is when the electronic components inside the unit starts aging, the tolerance will sway beyond what the firmware expects. Thereby giving the user more erroneous information.
What CPU is used in the Smart Relay? What's the specs and lifetime during operation, according to the manufacturer of the CPU?
[QUOTE="I was considering one of these as well, but wonder if there is an option to stop the beeps.[/QUOTE] I personally don't see it as a necessary upgrade. I did a straightforward 430 mechanical relay upgrade on my 360, and now just replace it every major service all at very low cost. If it fails, worst case I blow an F1 pump, which is only a few hundred dollars to replace but very low risk of actually happening. I'm fairly sure my car won't develop an "internet" problem.
I'm also going the route of replacing the standard relay at this point. I do see where the efforts on the solid state unit are inherently better overall, but hard to toss a lot of dollars on a perfect solution for what is essentially the result of an old worn relay in the first place.
Conclusion I came to a couple years ago. At least with cars with the 50amp relay like the F430, just replace the relay every 5 or 6 years and you are fine. Heck my local dealer said failures with the 50amp relay are non existent. The issues are with the earlier cars with the 30amp relay. They said they replace those with every major service on those cars. I do see some advantages of diagnostics with the smart relay...seems like it could alert to a failed accumulator...
I fitted the Scuding relay to my 2007 F430 and it definitely improved both smoothness and shift times, I kept the scuding digital switch when I sold the car and returned to original no problems, and immediately noticed the slightly clunky shift of the standard relay, I subsequently ended up with another 2008 F430, exactly the same result, my conclusion, the scuding relay genuinely works and is quicker, my only comprehension of why is that it is digital, rather than an old fashioned mechanical relay, a relay has to mechanically switch, which must take some mili-seconds to do so, that is the simple physics of an electric relay switch, the digital switch simply doesn’t, and I did have a go of a 430 Scuderia which was quicker still, but I reckon an F430 with the Scuding switch is somewhere between the Standard car and an 430 Scuderia...if I had another F430, would fit it again in a heartbeat....or maybe less..... Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
