The shielding that I called the "back of the bearing" is actually the front. Per the Ferrari TSB it should be installed facing out, away from the block. Even though I installed it "backward" I haven't had any issues to date, that I know of, with it being installed the way I have it.
I'm about to embark on this same journey with my 348 and would like to thank you Ernie for all the great info. One thing I've learned over the years when removing hard brake line fittings is to use a "flare nut" wrench. Very similar to a box end but has a slot in the outer ring of the box end and provides a much better purchase on the nut compared to a traditional open end. The flare nuts are quite soft and easily rounded. Or make your own wrench. Grind a slot in the correct size box end . JGW
Post up some pics when you get to that point. Every little thing helps. The more info, tips, and tricks we have the better.
I'm always wondering what makes people use so much force on those flared nuts. It's only sealing in a fluid, not holding up the engine.
I think I like working on my own cars so i can ***** about the pros that worked on it before me...WHO TIGHTENED THIS!! GGAAAAAAAHHH!! so far, my fave is the snapped off head of the AC adjuster bolt. It seems that someone forgot to loosen the slot bolt that goes through the ear and snapped the ear too... sjd
Few question if you don't mind. I have a leaky seal post a shop service from when I bought the car, better off doing it your self, probably caught or pinched the o-ring behind the seal or did not apply sealer where the o-ring meets the gasket. Oil drips on the alternator so out it comes. 1) Does the spec call for copper sealer or anything for the o-ring where the cam seal collars mate the head, picture 1? 2) Did you Honda bond top and bottom of the spark plug holes picture 2? 3) What was the cam cap torque? 4) What was the valve cover torque?
8-10nm on both cam caps and cover. Honda bond or Victor Reins grey for the sealant, yes apply a VERY light smear around the spark wells on the head side only. A dab on the corners where the cam seal o-ring meets the head, torque from the middle of the cover in a criss cross pattern. Trim the ends of the cover gasket with a new razor blade flush with the head, small smear of sealant at the joint and install the end caps..
Great Tom thanks. Got Hondabond. I follow all of that makes sense. I am unclear if this area in red gets a thin sealer layer applied though. I think i tis designed to be dry install but have seen folks apply red sealant or what not there. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi. I have a 1990 348 which this winter I am attempting the engine out major. I was consider the idea of documenting this with pictures, but this thread (as well as several others I am following) is so clear that I did not see the point. A big thank you to Ernie and others for this and similar threads. That being said, the procedure I am following is slightly different from Ernie’s so I will just post the differences. This way, any future DIYer attempting this will have more complete information. I hope this is ok. I am just about to pull the engine, and these are the differences so far……
On my car, the battery is at the back. As well as disconnecting the ground strap, my + terminal looked like the picture above. The fatter red wire in the picture goes to the starter motor, but the other wire goes to the frame. Undo the little bolt to separate the two. I then rolled up the starter wire, which still has the big terminal connection, and placed it by the starter.
Above is a picture of the handbrake cable. Mine is broken…. there is a spring which you are supposed to remove with pliers I think. It is fairly hard but will come off. then, you are supposed to undo the double nut to release the handbrake end from the sub frame. in my case, the double nuts were on tight and even after 3 days of soaking it with PB plaster I could not get it to budge. I then tried to put a screwdriver in the little hole where the spring goes, to get some leverage, and the stupid thing snapped off at the hole……. so i then got my hack saw and cut the line. Looks like I am in for a new handbrake cable…..
One of the first steps Ernie mentions is to remove the engine cover. So far I have not done this, or needed to. (Although I may regret this shortly). I do not have easy access to a helper, and this is something I would not attempt without one. there are a couple of tasks that I need to do today, before I can drop the engine, and I may regret not doing this…..we will see….
I DO have air conditioning. Not only this, but the AC actually works. I have no idea how to drain the Freon, or would not have a clue where to take this to get it done…..so….. I did however read a post that suggests that you can leave the AC compressor in the car, with the lines hooked up, as you drop the engine. We will see it this is possible. so…..in order to facilitate this idea….first I followed Ernie’s thread about removing the Alternator. On reflection you probably do not need to remove the alternator, but you do need to loosen the tensioner bearing and remove the alternator belt.
Next you need to remove the AC compressor from its bracket and remove the AC bracket completely. Above the AC compressor is the large oil pipe from engine to radiator. The information I have says to remove this, so that the AC compressor has room to move. I used a 1 1/4 socket as I didn’t have a metric one that was big enough.
Lastly I remove the fuel tank as per Ernie’s thread. I did this for several reasons. - I want to rebuild the fuel pumps, although technically the tank didn’t have to come out for that. - I wanted to give the AC compressor some additional room if needed. - my fuel gauge stopped working last summer and I have now discovered why. Some mice made a little home between the fuel tank and the bottom panel and chewed the cable to the fuel sending unit. There is not enough room to repair this with the tank in. - having never done this before I wanted to inspect the front of the engine for any surprises, as far as disconnecting before the drop….
One of the biggest advantages of removing the tank, is the wiring cable from the cabin is now super easy to pull. I was a little worried about the “jack up car and have helper feed wire from cabin” step. With the tank removed you can reach up and pull the wire safely from the cabin. I also wonder how you get the wire back in. That 78 pin connector was a challenge to go through the hole when I had this type of access. The idea of reinstalling the engine and pushing that huge connector across the top of the fuel tank and into the tiny hole in the cabin seems daunting……luckily I will not face this problem
When I put my car in the air, I jacked it to around 14 inches. I wanted to have room to work underneath. however the steps I have not completed yet are: - I need to loose the coolant hoses from engine to car. - I also need to disconnect the throttle cable. Ernie mentions disconnecting the throttle cable and it is super easy to remove it from the linkage at the front. However my understanding is that the throttle cable is also connected under the plenum at the front. With the car at the height it is, I cannot easily reach these things. Today I will lower the height on the stands and try to complete these last tasks before double checking my triple checks and dropping…… perhaps I should have removed the engine cover lid….
Image Unavailable, Please Login You can see in this picture, the purple / black / copper meal that I interrupted when taking this apart. Stupid mice.