guys is this even possible without the full weight in the car?
We have compared our sway bar with others that work correctly and everything looks the same. Here's a photo with the sway bar in contact with the backing plate. As for the thoughts that the spindles could be upside down or reversed. From our understanding, the backing plates wouldn't be able to mount, if the spindles were not in the correct orientation. Image Unavailable, Please Login e.
Like I said, last ditch speculation. But you bring up another point. Why does the tie rod hit the disk backing plate? That should not happen. Was the steering rack ever replaced? IS there way too much toe in?
Your science is tight. Still, the bushing inner races should turn on the bolt and that's where you lube it for squeaking.
Sway bar needs centering how is the other side? Also, the steering rack DOES have "lock to lock" stops, (or did when new) but you would have to center the wheel and check against the rack interface to make sure they agree. there's two couplings in the steering column that are simply splined connections.
To the outer casing, but the inner race too?? That would bring your point up, about "shaking it down" before tightening the bolts, which I have seen done. As he did mention welding it seems he was using the Factory approach
the bushings provide torsional resistance, everything in the flanblock is bonded, and they are pressed into the Arm and welded to insure no spinning of the bush. when the shock and upright is removed, the A arms will return to position when acted upon by hand up or down
I drug my floor jack 200' down the garage, and made all the millennials mad, they complain about me all the time. Made a hell of a racket! Night!
Don't know if the car is level, and picture is not exactly perpendicular the the hub shaft, with that said, if you measure the castor angle it shows 4-5 positive degrees. The castor angle is NOT way off, maybe a degree or less. In my opinion that is not the problem.
Looking at the clearance on your car compared to mine, or your shocks at too long or the a arms have been swapped. My car has a lot more clearance even with the wheel off the ground. These suspensions don't have much travel...something is improperly mounted. Try measuring the shock length on another 308 and position of a arms, can't be that hard to sort out. I did my suspension a wheel at a time, that way you have the other side as a guide...just in case you come to a dead end. Saves a lot of time. At least that's my thought.
I should have been clearer in my earlier post but there is no problem here at all. Here’s the solution: 1. Loosen the A-arm bolts. 2. Put engine back in car 3. Put everything else back in the car. 4. Sit the car on its wheels 5. Tighten A-arm bolts With the car jacked up and weight off the wheels the tie rod will no longer hit the sway bar link. If it does hit it will only be very slightly and this is normal. Full suspension drop is no longer possible with the A-arms tightened up in the correct position due to torsion in the A-arm bushings. I refer you to post https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/steering-knuckle-hitting-sway-bar.558501/
It looks to me like the suspension drops lower than normal which would be a function of the internal stop in the shocks. Rebuilding your shocks is probably the answer.
Sounds reasonable. Or just jack up the A arm until it's in the correct position and tighten. Yes, I though that to. But he did say with load there was still a problem. Then he posted a picture of the car on the ground and the ride height is way off. I kind of like John F's idea about setting the ride height before tightening the A arm bolts to see what happens. Like all things in this world it always comes down to a matter of adjustment. Probably true in this case too. But if ride height adjustment corrects the interference there is still the issue of the sway bar hitting the disk backing plates. The sway bar doesn't look off center, the dog bones look vertical. But who knows. It keeps coming back to all the right parts in all the right places so what left but adjustment?
Thanks for the suggestions and link to your own similar situation. Once we have everything back in the car we will give this a shot. Sounds promising.
I’m afraid it does not help your immediate issue but your lower a-arm bolt is the wrong way round. The bolt has a shoulder that is supposed to butt up against the drop link bush. (Yes the factory diagram is wrong) Regards David Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Side note. Can anyone tell us how many caster shims they have on the each side of the ball joints, top and bottom of the A Arms Standard appears to be 2 on each side, I believe.
