F355 Cold Starting Difficulties

If it was a sensor gap would it not be a starting problem hot or cold? Our starting problem is when the car sits for a day or more. I had the same issue in my 96 Viper coupe. It was a bad fuel,pump check valve.

 

When I had the sensor issue it was the air gap right at its outer limit. So once engine warmed up there was enough growth for it not to be a problem. Took a long time to track it down but that's what it was. I can't confirm that this will fix this issue BUT from what I understand now is pretty much everything in starting a 5.2 version revolves around that crank reference signal and rpm while cranking to turn pumps ON. Not so sure about the 2.7 version but it one sensor is playing up then one pump would be playing up I'd say. Could be wrong also!!!!!

 

You could be right. My 348 (2.7) recently developed a funny starting problem - it would catch immediately, but only on one bank, and 2-3 seconds later the other bank would come on and smoothen the engine idle. When I checked the crank sensors (fairly new looking KIA, replaced by the PO), I found them both good but one had 4 shims and the other none. Probably the shims from the original sensors but the mechanic couldn't be bothered checking the gaps and shimming them properly so he put all the shims he found on one sensor. I didn't check the existing gaps as I had two new sensors ready to install and I installed them and set their gaps at around the middle of the specified range. The engine now starts straight away with an immediate smooth idle.

 

When I measured the new Ferrari one that I installed I was very surprised in the length variation from the old one. I believe you are correct in assuming the mechanic just replaced with out checking the airgap. It's easily done when replacement of factory parts.

 

The other point I wanted to make is as stated by plenty of people is these cars are getting a bit of life on them so wiring harness's and especially noise suppression shielding isn't quite working as well as it could so the signals probably are not as clean and offering a little resistance. I have decided that my car will have a new crank reference sensor at every major due to the added insignificant cost and trouble they can offer

 

Congratulations, you are now the proud owner of a 24-year-old Ferrari. How's your sense of humor???

I have been following this thread since it started.

From what you posted, you most likely have a fuel issue and you need an experienced FERRARI tech that knows 355s. There is a decision tree to follow to troubleshoot your problem. You have a fuel pressure leak down issue that is causing your "Cold Start" issue. Find a reputable FERRARI tech that knows 355s, have them pull the injectors and get them serviced. Whether your injectors are the issue or not, and unless they were recently serviced they need to be cleaned anyway.

Your issue appears to be a check valve or regulator before the fuel rail or injectors. In the unlikely event that is an intermittent electrical issue, which I doubt, you REALLY need a good FERRARI tech that knows 355s to logically troubleshoot the issue. If you don't follow a logical troubleshooting flow, you are just throwing parts and fixes at your car in a shotgun fashion without troubleshooting the basic issue. @No Doubt Chris got you there in that it is most likely a fuel issue, find someone to definitively further troubleshoot the issue so you can enjoy your Ferrari.

I recommend that you PM Brian Crall @Rifledriver and be humble. An expert can tell you more in a moment than all the posts on the Internet (including this one) will ever get you. YMMV

 

I've been biting my tongue reading through this thread the last few days. Why does it matter if it takes 2 turns of the key to start from cold? If it is a check valve, how long do you expect a check valve to hold pressure? A year, month, week day, a few hours? And if it is a check valve, why doesn't it continue to deteriorate over time so that there is a hot start problem?

There was a survey post back in 2015 that addressed this issue. Please look at post 31 regarding fuel pressures on 1st and 2 turn of the key. Many of those who responded had the same issue. At the time, I only had my 2.7 car 2 years and it always started 1st turn. Now, 4 years later sometime it take 2 turns to start cold.

Cold Start Issue - M2.7 (1995) - SURVEY


I've never considered this a problem and never would. A match doesn't always ignite the first time you strike it.

 

It is not really a problem. Would be nice if it started first crank. Just having a conversation. If your going to judge posts by " who cares" you could say that about half the threads on this site.

 

Yep it's just an opinion and we all have them. Unfortunately with cars any type different things cause different problems. Ya just gota learn to filter out the **** ya don't think ya need!!!!! No offence taken and hopefully none given!!

 

Random parts replacement without proper troubleshooting.

Random parts replacement without proper troubleshooting.

When I build hot rods, I install a switch to kill the ignition so the engine can crank to build oil pressure before I spark it to start. It really keeps Flatheads happy.

I had an AMG Mercedes CL55 that ceased to start on the first try and it just went out of warranty. I took it to the dealer and was informed that a ball-check valve failed in one of the hard fuel lines and the parts weer $1750 and labor was going to run another $800 so the car would start on the first twist.

For $2550 plus tax, I can live with turning the ket more than once. That said, I sold the car to a friend shortly thereafter and it has been starting on the second twist now since 2004. Not a terrible problem to live with.

 

Engine not starting replace crank reference sensor. Eng starts intermittently. Check air gap. Close up air gap to WSM specs. Car fixed!!! Fault finding/trouble shooting!!!!

 

Great. I'm going do check mine.

 

Sorry for restarting this thread and not checking back earlier to see all your responses. I really appreciate the enthusiastic replies and advice!

I should have mentioned that I have a 2.7. Also, my technician changed both fuel pumps and installed new relays last year since one of my fuel pumps needed to be changed.

When I mentioned this cold start problem to him, he told me that I have plenty of fuel pressure and that he suspected a crank sensor. He said to replace both cranks sensors along with the phase sensor.

The only other thing that I did was to try and reset the ECU by using BigHeads’ method from another thread. It states:

“Another hint: On starting, turn the ignition switch to the position where the dashboard idiot lights come on (but not yet cranking the starter), floor the throttle (to index the potentiometer), completely release the throttle, and then crank the engine. This is all empirical technique, but seems to work.”

Since I did these things, my little red machine starts up at first crank. I’ve tested it for seven days straight, and it starts at first crank (within 2 seconds of turning the ignition). The only other thing I should mention is that I make sure to NOT press the accelerator before or while turning the ignition. I can’t remember if I used to this before, but I can see how it might feel natural for many of us to press the accelerator while turning the ignition. The manual specifically states,

“Each time the engine is started, the ECU regulates itself on the idle position. The engine must therefore be started without pressing the accelerator pedal.”

Thanks again everyone, and I hope this helps someone.