That sounds bizarre. You mean after the ignition has been turned off? Either the TCU is telling the pump to do that (by design or error) or the pump relay is getting stuck.
Looking at the wiring diagram, the TCU has two electrical power sources: Power from the ignition key (when in RUN) Power from the battery (but only when the ignition key is in RUN) If the ignition key is turned to off, the only way the TCU could keep the pump relay powered would be if the TCU has a large capacitor to keep the relay solenoid powered for a certain time period.
Good point on the magnet. I agree with you Steve, logic generally wins. You can never assume anything. Your hill part could be bad Your sensor could be bad Ultimatly you will figure this out because of you analytics. Good luck and keep us posted. As for the beeping going off just before you did the clutch I feel would be normal because it knows the clutch is slipping and would beep to indicate this although i have no facts for that. What I do know and is a fact was before i did my clutch it beeped way easier than it does now with a newer clutch. So it knows, and I am sure if I read the logic in the manual for the 10th time i could figue out why.
You are quite right. This was the first thing my independent mechanic looked at after the problem started. Apparently it is installed correctly. Yes it is strange. And it is new - has only happened two or three times but the pump definitely continued to run for a couple of seconds after the engine was shut off.
Drove the car today and when I got home the pump continued to run on for at least five seconds after the engine was switched off. In fact I had the door open well before it stopped... This is new behaviour and not normal. I also felt the battery was pretty weak when I started the car. Could that be part of the issue? It is less than three years old and a decent battery (Red Top).
Steve, do you normally have the battery on charge (with a trickle charger/battery conditioner)? Volts can be checked with a DC voltmeter by removing the lid from the front luggage compartment fuse holder and sticking the voltmeter red probe on fuse 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 (black probe to earth). Check your driver's manual for fuse numbers. Hopefully you can do this without removing the fuse (most fuses have holes in the top of them for checking volts). With the fuse in the holder, you can check the volts on either end of the fuse. Also check the volts with the car running to check alternator output.
The only logical explanationis the relay is sticking or the F1 pump is being told to operate by the ecu Next time you park leave in neutral with brake off and see ifit buzzes and then see if both buzzing and f1 pump turn off at same time. This would proove the ecu is telling pump to run just like it it telling buzzer to go off. Theyshould both turnoff when the system times out and shuts off If the ecu is telling f1 to run it could be the pressure sensor on the pump is pooched
Hopefully not... It looks like the sensor is another part which can't be purchased individually. Can anyone read the numbers on this? https://www.ricambiamerica.com/media/wysiwyg/7.JPG (Thanks for the pic, Ricambi USA )) "...280-80/HR01.511 297...." ? "??407 000496" "??agano GmbH"
Image Unavailable, Please Login Will this work https://www.sequparts.com/product/pressure-sensor-ferrari-f1/
They say that if the pressure switch is faulty the pump usually stays on permanently https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=http://www.f1-hydraulik.de/6.html&xid=17259,15700022,15700186,15700190,15700248,15700253&usg=ALkJrhgcemueJrDxdKfv3mYej4TKCrZHrQ Hopefully some of this helps If you do talk to them ask them about that solenoid you could not find Also i see they recommend a diff hydraulic oil than dextron atf
No, not sure, but the pressure sensor link you provided doesn't specifically list the F355. The pumps are interchangeable with a suitable adaptor, so I assume the pressure output is the same (unless there is a restrictor in the adaptor). If the same pressure range, it would then be down to sensor thread size and electrical plug compatability. F360 sensor: 0~80 bar, 0.5~4.5 volts, 5V supply The WSM shows circular contacts on the plug. F355 sensor: 5V supply on pin "b" Earth on pin "a" Output signal on pin "c" The WSM schematic shows blade type electrical contacts on the plug. The pressure of the pump is regulated to between 48~60 bar, so I guess the F360 sensor covers the range.
From what I gather it would run with. The key out if you were quick because it only runs once the key is off for about 5 seconds
Regarding Grant's link: https://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=http://www.f1-hydraulik.de/6.html&xid=17259,15700022,15700186,15700190,15700248,15700253 Do we have a better translation for this? Google Translate says "System switches uncontrolled (even with the ignition off) - Accumulator defective". What does "system switches uncontrolled" mean? Steve, can you remember where you bought your accumulator? (I recall you said you had it replaced). Maybe it was sitting on the shelf for too long....
I bought the accumulator from Ricambi and it is the last thing installed on my car (less than 500km ago). I'm pretty confident it's fine. I am, however, very interested in this pressure sensor. Given I'm going to change out my pump for a 360 pump, that pressure sensor would be compatible. The car is booked in to be looked at / worked on by another expert in a couple of weeks. He hasn't seen the car before.
Isn't the sensor attached to the power unit body (not the pump)? There may still be no guarantee that an F360 sensor will have the same mounting thread or electrical plug. After further manual reading, however, I discovered that the pressure/voltage range of the two pressure sensors are same. Anyway, it's about time you had some good luck
i might be full of crap but one of these days i am going to try a 360 pump and solenoids, then calibrate it through my new gallileo and make it work. Especially since the 355 solenoids are a no go. This way we have a fully rebuildable system. Steve if you are talking with those guys at hydra7lic gmbh about the pressure sensor ask them why a 360 complete setup, except the actuator, would not work. They are pretty knowledgeable.
