GT4 instrument panel

I recently removed the instruments and replaced the bulbs with LED lights. That part of the project went well. The problem is the captive nuts for the 6 screws that hold the panels have deteriorated, broken, fallen off or whatever but will not hold the screws. What are the fixing options?

I have considered assorted insert nuts(Rivnuts, Plusnuts, Jacknuts, plastic inserts) but am concerned about crushing or breaking the holding material. Fiberglass, I believe. Could remove the binnacle to get at the back side but who knows where that might lead. Comments or suggestions please.

Thanks.

Keith

 

Post a pic. I can’t remember what the mount tabs look like

 

I used Araldite.

 

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what about the metal stamped nuts with the clip built in? I forgot what they are called. they are the same as the AC condenser

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/clip-on-nuts

 

might work

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, the clips are not long enough, they will not reach from the edge to the hole. I have searched without success for a long reach clip.

Keith

 

Re fiberglass the tabs and install nuts with resin?

 

There must be nuts imbedded in fibreglass. Some of my bolts have actually snapped when I tried to remove the instruments. What is the exact failure? Have the threads in the nuts stripped or the fibreglass tabs broken off?

 

John,

The tabs are fine but most of the imbeded nuts are gone. In 2 cases it appears the fiberglass was tapped to accept the screw, 1 hole is oversized with no nut behind, 2 have nuts are hanging on but not secure,1 is OK. Basically a mess that I would like to clean up.

It seems to come down to 2 choices:

• Insert nut from the front. Jacknuts appear to be the most forgiving, easiest to install and require the least force. This requires a larger hole be drilled leaving less material from the hole to the edge of the tab or flange. The surface behind may have upholstry fragments and not be flat or clean. A washer behind the fiberglass would provide support and a flat surface.
• Remove the binnacle and install new nuts from behind using epoxy or new fiberglass. I am reluctant to dig deeper into the car. It is old and brittle. Each part removed opens the potential of a deep rabbit hole; I could have the entire car disassembled to change a light bulb. Maybe I just need some confidence building. This would result in the most "original" repair.

Give me your thoughts. I appreciate all suggestions.

Keith

 

If it were me I would take option 2 and fix it properly and take enjoyment in doing so rather than a quick fix. But that is me and I am somewhat masochistic like that.

Regards
David

 

Where the screw goes in but does not grip try wrapping the screw with teflon tape to make it a little thicker. Hopefully that works on some of them.

 

I basically did your option 2 except I still had the original nuts. Araldite is a 2 part epoxy in case that doesn't translate. Once you have the panels off you may as well do a proper job. On mine the problem was getting the panels off since the nut(s) were spinning rather than the bolt(s) undoing, and it's hard to get something in behind to grip them!

 

Thanks for the input I really appreciate your comments. I will post pictures when the project is complete.

Keith
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Finally finished the dash. LED bulbs installed, new wire and lube for the heater controls and new Momo steering wheel. I used the jack nuts to replace the worn out/missing dash retaining nuts. These worked perfect.

Thanks again for the comments.

Keith

 

Sweet

 

Well done Keith, what LED bulbs did you use (source?). My GT4s dash lights are pretty dim and a upgrade is in my future.

 

yes that would be helpful

 

That steering wheel is fire! Well done.

 

There is a lot of discussion in previous post by others. Search and you will find lots of info, some contradictory. Generally, I followed two threads which are attached as pdf.

I tried several bulbs to get the brightness. These are the ones I selected are pictured in an attached pdf.

Other thoughts:

• Probably the indicator lights at the tach base could be less bright.
• 
  
• 34442w fits the clock as well as the other small gauges.
• 
  
• I found LEDs were not needed in the turn indicators. The blinking does not provide enough time for the LEDs to light.
• 
  
• There is no need to bypass the rheostat adjustment. The LED bulbs draw less current than the lowest setting so the adjustment has no effect.
• 
  
• Supplying power to either end of the cluster also powers the other end. Protect those wires.
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• It is much easier to remove/install the instrument cluster if the steering wheel hub is removed. This requires a special ring nut socket. I bought one from Superperformance, $70 delivered.

Hope this is helpful.

Keith

 

I mistakenly flipped the pictures between the speedo and tach. Correct version is attached.

 

Thank you.