355 Cam phase sensor malfunction

The knock sensors have their own OBD2 codes and you don't see those.

 

Won't hurt anything but you are supposed to get OBD2 codes for injector malfunction. They measure the injector current when the injectors are on.

 

My scope setting were, vertical 5V/division and horizontal 5ms/division. Before connecting the scope to the car you should short the scope leads and get it to produce a horizontal trace across the scree. Assuming you arer going to connect o scope channel 1, set the vertical more to Chn 1. Use the black POS knob the adjust the vertical position of the sweep with the leads shorted. Leave the delay switch in Normal position. In the Trigger area I can make out all the settings but it look like Mode is auto or normal. Try auto. For slope it will depends on polarity so try both + and -. trigger level and coupling you will have to paly around with. In the time section you can start with a setting like 50 msec and when you get a signal on the screen you can shorten it to see more detail. Leave the Single and Rest and X-Y buttons out. You can used the POS butting to move the trace left-right. Put the hold knob to off. I don't know what the red knob does buy I suspect it lets you vary the time scale from the dial setting.

Tough to use a scope if you haven't. Maybe search Google for the user's manual. Never mind. Here it is.

 

Just a thought. The signal from the ECU to the coilpack may be slightly different from John's photo. The 5.2 car sends signals directly to the coilpack, not via a power module.

There are no oscilloscope displays for the 5.2 in the Workshop Manual, only the 2.7 (which has a power module).

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John's signal is similar to the 2.7 car

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/146616675/

Perhaps the only difference is in amplitude (height) or current (not shown).

 

Forgot I had this. Might help.

 

The diagram on the left of the picture you attached shows what is happening on the Ignition Coil end pins (Pins 1 & 3), not the signal ECU to Ignition Module. The signal ECU to module is this diagram:
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The 355 manual does not but the 348's manual shows the two signals combined - top is ECU to Module, bottom is Module to Coil (pin 1 or pin 3):
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Otherwise, the signal scoped on the Pins 1 & 3 of the Ignition Coil is the same whether it is driven by a separate module or directly by the ECU. In the case of the 5.2, there is also an "Ignition Module", similar to the external one, only it is inside the ECU and part of the overall circuitry.

 

Thanks, Miro It pays to compare the 348 and 355 manuals sometimes.

 

Doesn't really matter since Grant's car is a 5.2, but to have a better understanding of the function of the ignition module it is basically a switching transistor. It is normally an open circuit. When the ECU on a 2.7 car sends the pulse to the ignition module the switch closes and grounds pin 1 or 3 of the coil. The ECU signal on a 2.7 car is given as a means to determine if the ECU or ignition module is at fault. But we are getting off topic.

 

Perhaps not too much off topic. In the 5.2 ECU, the "ECU to Ignition Module" signal could be recorded on an oscilloscope if its probe is connected to the base of the ignition switching transistor (there should be two switching transistors for each coil inside the ECU). However, this test would not be easy as the ECU would have to be connected to the car and the engine cranked. If done, the test would determine whether the ignition switching transistor has blown or whether it is not getting the trigger signal from the "clever" part of the ignition circuitry.

 

Sorry, Grant, I posted that message before I saw your video. I had to delete my message and re-assess.

Ugh.. poor engine. It's running so badly, it's hard to tell if the coils are firing every time on both banks. At this point, it may be best just to fit a new ECU before you break something.

Did you just look at the waveform on the one pin on each bank's coilpack? Or both wires, 1 & 3?

 

Obviously, switching of the coil on Bank 1 is still present but it is rather poor, as is evident from the shape of the section of the graph below the horizontal line. This part of the graph (like a trapezoid, clearly seen on the Bank 2 graph) represents the transistor switching "on" (left vertical line of the trapezoid) and then switching "off" (the right vertical line of the trapezoid) when the spark is produced. The long spike upwards at the "off" point represents the backlash voltage in the primary side of the coil at the moment the current flow through it is cut-off (normal occurrence). The shape of this "trapezoid" on the Bank 1 graph (actually not a clean trapezoid at all) shows that the switching of the transistor is not sharp and clean but "mangled" which cannot produce good high tension in the coil's secondary windings.

As suggested by Ian, read the other side of the coil of Bank 1 to see if it also poor. This kind of signal (that you recorded on the Bank 1 coil) could be due to a partially failed switching transistor. However, if the other side of the Bank 1 coil shows similar poor switching graph, that would mean that either both switching transistors for the Bank 1 coil have failed simultaneously (rather unlikely) or the circuitry driving the two transistors has partially failed. The transistors can easily be replaced but the driving circuitry is much more complicated. It is now best that you just wait for the second ECU unless you want to go into trouble of opening up the ECU, locating the ignition transistors and inspecting them. You could solder a wire to the base of one of the Bank 1 coil transistors, plug the open ECU in and hook-up the oscilloscope to the soldered wire. This would show you the trigger signal sent to the transistor (the first graph that I attached earlier and called "ECU to Module"). If this signal turns out to be good, it would confirm the transistor failure.

 

So it's hard to troubleshoot from the internet, but if all the settings are identical in the two videos, then you are getting a trigger on the bad bank, just not as often as the good bank. Also the flyback voltage spike is much smaller than the good bank.

Since you have swapped out the coil packs with no change in performance, I think the fault is in the drivers inside the ECU.