348 QUESTION: 348 DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCK FAIL

Are you saying the driver's door locks successfully when locking the passenger door? Recently, I've spent many hours trying to understand the electrics in the door mechanisms. Faulty Ferrari wiring diagrams didn't help at all. It seems there are still some hidden secrets.

A door will not normally lock unless it is completely latched closed. I notice that when I close my car door, even if it's a few millimeters ajar, it won't lock electrically. Both passenger and driver doors attempt to lock when I use the centre console button, but both buttons (door locked/unlocked indicators) jump back up again. Properly latching the door will mechanically allow the locking electric actuator to move freely. When the key or centre console switch is then used, the actuator can extend fully. This extension changes the state of the actuator's internal position switch, which satisfies the electric door locking module's logic to keep the door locked. I would say that in your case, because something mechanical is broken in your door mechanism, some mechanical part is not in the right position to allow the electric actuator to move into the correct position.

You may be able to remove the broken piece and the door will latch and lock properly, but that will involve pulling the door to pieces, so you may as well wait for the new part to arrive.

 

P.S.

Does the key rotate like the lock isn't attached to anything?

 

It sounds like the pin has broken or the linkage has separated between the end of the lock and the latch mechanism.

Does the lock go "ballistic" when you lock it from the passenger side or just after, say, you close the driver's door or try to lock it with the console button?

There was a problem on the forum a few weeks ago where part of an actuator failed and the door wouldn't stay locked. At first it sounded like a latch problem, but it turned out to be an actuator. Your door problem does seem mostly mechanical though.

Do the inside and outside handles work properly? They should engage with the latch when the door is unlocked, but move freely when the door is locked.

 

The "pin" on my driver's side lock broke in two a few weeks ago. The key would twist left and right in the keyhole without operating the lock or spring returning to center. I did not have the dancing lock problem.

I ordered a pin from Daniel and replaced it. I was able to find the spring that centers the key. It is a very small part and I assume usually falls off when the pin breaks. I was lucky as the spring fell onto the end of a screw. Otherwise it can end up way down inside the door.

I also took the opportunity to install a remote door opener so I don't have to worry about using a key to get in anymore.

 

In case it helps anyone:

Here's how the key and latch mechanism look like inside the door. Note, pin is broken so the actuator arm is dangling. I removed the strakes to gain access to the 2 screws that hold the anodized mounting bracket. The vertical ends of the screws are visible in this photo.

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Here's the assembly removed. You can see the spring clip that holds the lock barrel in place is partially pulled out. The lock barrel is already removed

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Here's the pin sitting next to the lock barrel

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Here's a shot to show how the spring is installed. I could not find a photo of this anywhere on fchat so I figured I should document it.

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Quick bit of hopefully helpful info...some suggest you need to take the window glass out to access the lock; you don't. I did the above with the window in no problems.

I'd been putting the job off as I didn't want the hassle of taking the window out. I took the inner door panels off to see how it went and found more than enough access; just buy a handful of the door panel plastic fittings as they can easily break; cheap as chips anyway.

Good luck.