This graph shows the current pulses through the ignition coil primary. The "on" time is about 3-4 milliseconds. Image Unavailable, Please Login
What I meant by load the circuit is to add a "carbon pile" or another suitable device to simulate a load to the appropriate amperage just to test the primary 12V feed. The coil pack is "known good" so including that component in the test would need a scope like you said. I just remember over the 12 yrs of my wrenching career, that those oscilloscopes used to only help us with the secondary ignition. Any time we tried to use them for testing anything else, it just sent us on a wild goose chase. (Maybe we just weren't good with using them )
That's certainly doable - two 55W headlight bulbs would draw about the same Amps as the ignition coil.
There seems to be some panel colour grouping of controls. I'm wondering if those selections are even active with the SEARCH switch in NORMAL. Does an oscilloscope look for distinct peaks, then shift the timing automatically to show the peak around the middle of the screen? Out of NORMAL, perhaps you have to go looking for the peaks with the manual controls. Seems that Grant is regrouping for the final assault. Place your bets on what the problem is... Wiring (from inside the relay panel to the coilpack) ECU Shorted spark plug wires (under the cam covers) Replacement coil is not as good as first thought Some sensor not putting out a large enough signal to activate both banks, but not enough to trip the fault circuits...?
Did you use a wire hooked up to the battery bus bar in the engine bay or to the white plug near the ECU? Guys, this load testing may be unnecessary if Grant has already bypassed the wiring completely. Also, adding large loads to an unfused system, might not be a good idea. The weakest point may be a circuit board track in the fuse box ($$$).
The problem with load testing is that it leaves the coil out of the picture. That why I suggested looking at the voltage on pin 2 with a scope and comparing bank 1 and 2. As for what the scope does, that's what the trigger function is for. It needs to be set for what slope to trigger off of, increasing or decreasing signal and sensitivity. This signal is a little hard to lock on to because it's more step change sin signal level and, as shown in my video, it jump around. Here is the failed bank on my 308
He guys been mega busy at work just got home at 10 pm I will try tomorrow again. I apolgize for the delay.
Yes i went directly to the j7moers in the engine bay. I also know that the supply is supply both coils somehow because when my I told my Wife too shut down she said it ran for about a half second like there was a delay. I think bank 1 and 2 were getting power fromthe jumpered coil until i disconnected the jumper. The bad news is we may have fried something, the good news is i had all ready ordered an ecu. When i tried it again without being jumpered everyth8ng ran as before (like chit) so likely all is good. Ha ha All though i agree with Ian about not a great idea to jumper, but when I get pissed off common sense goes out the window. Besides how the hell are we all gonna learn new stuff without having some balls.
My bet is on the ecu but in all fairness Mitchell said it anout 200 posts ago and I think is fairly confident watching with the popcorn in hand ha ha
Whats your guesses? My ecu and co8ls were ordered on monday and had they gone straight north from california would be here by now, but instead are in Kentucky. Hopefully they are not worn out since they are getting more miles that the car
I think we've confused you. The jumpering was to bypass the car's wiring which may (or may not) be faulty. Adding load was a different procedure to load up the car's wiring to see if it could maintain voltage (The normal voltage checks which you did earlier with an voltmeter put very little load on a circuit). I thought adding extra load to the car's wiring might be risky because there is (for some reason) no fuse protection on the ignition coil supply circuit. By jumpering, you are helping to take load off the regular circuit. I don't think you've fried anything. The most you can supply to the coilpack is 12 volts from the battery. Anyway, I hope the ECU fixes the problem, otherwise it will be an expensive lesson
Why? Was she talking too much? You have not fried anything. Yes, by jumping the pin 2 of one coil to +12V, the pin 2 of the other coil also gets this "fresh" supply. It was nothing to worry about that the engine ran-on for a second or so after the ignition switch-off. This was due to the fact that, after the ignition was off, there was still +12V supply to the pins 2 of the coils which made them continue producing spark for a while. Normally, this supply is cut-off the moment you turn the ignition off so there is no run-on.
No spark = ECU, primary side wiring, coil, high tension leads, plugs. Nothing else in there. ECU "seems" to test ok. But only pin 1 was checked. Primary side wiring seems ok. Moving on..... Did you wash the car and get water in the plug wells? Wait. Did you install the GCK? And if after everything is checked there is still a problem, I know a nice steep boat ramp down by the lake you can check out. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Grant, while you're waiting for your ECU to arrive, I'm just curious what wire colours you have on pins 8 and 9 of the 9 pin plug. I have three diagrams with three different colours and my car resembles none of them. On my pin 9 there is a grey-ish wire with two black lines on it. It's a brand new harness. Note that the wire colours are different on one side of the plug (I just need the colours on the side which doesn't have 3 black wires).
No washing Seems odd all 4 would short out at once Gold connector kit check, ha ha Will check other one before ecu gets here Also need to check the wires and coil for resistance Possible the presumeably good coil and the existing are both pooched but figure that was just as unlikely as the ecu
If it's not the power source, next "single failure" item would be the coil primary. Impedance between pins 1 and 3 about an ohm or so, between 1-2 or 2-3 about 1/2that. I hesitate to say ECU, though it could be, because for it to fail on one bank it would have to be designed as a 2x4 system rather that a 1x8.
Yes i did it was the first thing i looked at. That was on bank 2 i believe. This was why i had spare coils.
Image Unavailable, Please Login This s why i have been unproductive on the 355 front. Sorry for the delay but had to build my daughter a shed. It was wayharder than an engine out as far as i am concerned Should get back to it this weekend comming
Come on. Shed for your daughter? And you're daughters name is Sweet 355? And the shed is full of spare parts.
