Thanks Newman! So am I. Unfortunately my experience is that the horsy lose weight every each time he is chromed....Any how I had to repair the ears on two of the spinners so they definitely need new chrome. Best regards Peter.
I gave up on the Ansa sport exhausts. These mild steel exhausts corrodes like mad and even if they looks good on the outside, the inside is often completely gone. I cut one of them up for fun just to find out that my decision to order new SS exhausts was wise. All 4 manifolds are in excellent condition and I have decided to reuse these. They will be blasted and surface treated with hot spray aluminum and followed by VHT paint. Had to remove the heat protection shield from the two rear manifolds to ensure good corrosion protection: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was lucky to get hold of an used original front hood grill from Eurospares. These grills seems to become increasingly difficult to get hands on new or used. I stripped the grill chemically, had it polished and got it re-anodized: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Peter, somehow I had missed this fantastic rehabiltation project. The fact that it's a Boxer AND prugna makes it even cooler. Did you purchase/borrow that sweet Car-o-liner frame bench in the photos? Superb skills, the car found the right home with you. Kind regards, John/CT/USA
Thanks for the Nice words John. I totally understand your admiration for the boxers. I feel the same way and it fuels my motivation to get the car rolling within the foreseeable future. I bought that car o liner bench cheap from a shut down workshop. Not many cars are worth restoring in a bench anymore due to the expensive labor in my region so these tools are often for sale for a bargain. Best regards Peter
Hi! May I suggest instead of aluminum coating..which results in a rough surface I believe, that you get the manifolds ceramic coated as I did...both inside and out. T Image Unavailable, Please Login he ceramic works great. I keeps heat in the pipe thus resulting in increased exhaust velocity and HP...I guess...and reduced exterior heat, but they DON'T corrode and it's a fairly sturdy coating and won't chip or flake if applied correctly.
Good suggestion Don and I would love to have the opportunity to go for ceramic coating, but it is not available for automotive use In Denmark or any nearby neighboring countries. It is correct that aluminum results in a rough surface, but this is an excellent base for the VHT paint. The corrosion resistance is excellent, and the price is very competitive (Much cheaper). Best Peter
Try resting your hand on the 600 degree manifold and tell me if the ceramic coating kept the heat in..... The ceramic protects it and doesn’t burn off, that’s about it. Don’t expect a performance gain.
Now Paul......I didn't mean you could put your hand on it. But it does keep heat inside tests have proven that. To a degree (is that a pun?) And true, there is a performance gain but not one that is discernible at this level.
Odd on the lack of ceramic coating over there. I agree with you on the aluminum. I have a set of sand-bent Lola T-70 headers for a Small Block Chevy that are aluminum coated. Also have a set of brand new in the box Magnesium wheels that fit a Lola T-165, 220, 222 Can Am car if interested
Lola T-165 Can Am car is out of my reach....but thanks for the offer...- I guess the market in Denmark is too small to feed a commercial industrial business for ceramic coating of manifolds. I can get specialized ceramic coatings made locally on industrial products, but none of these firms are targeting the automotive costumers. The alternative will be to ship the manifolds to UK, but the price will be out of proportion shipping and insurance included.
how did you clean all inside? make a trip to the island and enjoy a few days there until they are finished
peter have a look here: https://www.cerakotehightemp.de/ they are located in quickborn, so near the border to denmark on the german side. they are doing ceramic coating let us know please how you go on
I had my entire exhaust ceramic coated when I put in the Newman diff. It really is a nice priduct and the headers still look like when they were done. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hello all, it's time for a little update. There is not much going on due to other summer activities and ordinary work, but I take advantage of the good weather and get some parts prepped for paint. The front and rear chassis is painted and the car is ready for a visit to the painter for a complete Prugna paint job when I have installed the wheel well. The ambition is to have the car painted before winter so I can kill all those boring winter evenings in the garage. The plan is depending of the painters good will to find a slot for my car though. Enjoy the pictures and thanks for following this project. Good summer to all. Best Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Beautiful Peter, You have done a great job with recreating the course smooth "orange peeling" look to the wheel wells. What process and products did you use?
I did the same procedure as mentioned previous in a other thread: 1. Epoxy primer, left for 24 hours drying and then manually prepped with grit 400 sanding material for next application 2. Several layers of semi gloss black 2K automotive PU paint, left for 40 to 60 minutes resting time before application of structure paint (wet in wet) 3. 2 layers of 2K PU semi gloss to mat Mipa truck bed line I just completed the front hood earlier today...quite extensive process: 1. Manual removal of old goo and paint and hereafter glass beating 2. Epoxy primer 3. Wet sanding grit 400 4. Sealing to avoid water intrusion 4. 2K PU paint black 5. 2 layers of 2K PU semi gloss to mat Mipa truck bed line I am very happy with the result: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Also completed the front light brackets and the wheel well: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have now completed the installation of the glass fiber in the front and can tick out a milestone; The front damage is repaired and i can finally start the on the more trivial tasks like painting sub assemblies and general nut & bolt repair work. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have just started on the engine work while waiting for the chassis to be painted. I stripped down the major components and cleaned down the block in multiple stages: After extensive masking the block was washed in turpentine followed by a thinner. Then the entire block was sprayed with a light phosphoric acid and left to soak for a few minutes before thoroughly washed down with a HP gun with soap and hereafter water. That treatment left the entire surface completely cleaned down to the metal and ready for new paint. The engine have never been disassembled before apart from the clutch housing and the water pump and all the hardware is appearing like new. I plan to change all seals and will overhaul the water pump, the clutch and the cam drive system. All hardware will be re-plated and painted as per original. Best regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login