308 - New Cooling Fans

Thanks guys, I like all of the different advice and opinions. Your right I'm over thinking the solution. I'm going with the new aluminum radiator and 10" low output spal fans #30100320 as first planned. Less to modify.

 

I followed the directions of of other Ferrarichater's with great results. Thursday I installed my new radiator and fans. Just short drives until Saturday when I went on a 3 1/2 hour drive in the Dallas above 90 degree. On the hwy way 70 to 80 mph the temp gauge stay just below 90c. Stop and go traffic and sitting still for 15 min the temperature would rise just above 90c by a needle width. When the fans come on it cools it back down just below 90c. I don't know what made the diggest difference, the new radiator, fans or sealing all round the radiator on both sides and under the radiator. I'm very pleased with the results. I can feel the fans pushing much more air.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

If the fans are run directly from the battery, as mine are, there is no direct load on the alternator and although there is of course an eventual increased load on the alternator it will not be a direct short term load.

 

Here's a couple of pics of my GT4 fan installation done nearly 5 years ago. Running direct from the battery through fused relays. I did the same with the lights. Whether or not refurbing the original fans would have solved my problem (not enough airflow over the A/C condensor to allow the A/C to be recharged - I hadn't at that point got as far as running the car in hot temps) the drop in voltage over the old wiring was worrying. My conversion, using Kenlowe (a UK company) 13 inch 2 speed fans. 18 amp at low speed and 24 amp at high speed, wired fopr low speed for aircon and high speed for aircon + cooling. The fans (60mm overall thickness) fitted perfectly attached to an alu right angle bracket stretching the width of the radiator and secured by the existing bolts which attach the condensor. The original fan brackets are still in situ if a future owner wants to revert to stock. For me originality in such hidden areas is not important, I want a car I can drive and which works well. I do however want external originality.

I also fitted a narrower range thermostat so my running temp is now 87 - 90 deg and the car will run like that in any weather condition.

BTW I have also subsequently fitted a Sam's fuseblock which is a great improvement on the original. And with led spade fuses it easy to see which one to change. I currently have a problem with my hazard flasher fuse which periodically blows and which also controls the door lights. Needs investigation but it is now so easy to see which fuse has blown

BTW the pics show the car nearly 5 years ago, a lot of tidying up has been done since.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Nicely done I like your brackets to hold the fans. I have my evaporator out now installing a new spal fan motor. Was the evaporator dirty from the old foam.

 

Could have been old foam. There was certainly no foam left and the evaporator needed a lot of cleaning. I fitted a new neoprene (from memory) strip which is still in great condition after nearly 5 years. That foam is SO important. Must take a pic of it.

 

Evaporator is what I should probably have have written. Anyway- the A/C bit in front of the engine cooling radiator- whatever the proper name is.

 

I’m not sure what you mean here, everything is essentially connected through the battery including the original fans. Connecting your fan wires to the positive terminal of the battery is no different than connecting to the other end of the cable at the starter, it is electrically the same point. People seem to have the notion that they are achieving some sort of advantage in bypassing the fuse blocks. The only reason for a fuse block is so they will all be in one location and not scattered all over the car. The reason for connecting the new fans at the front is because you are installing fans that require twice as much current and to do it properly through the fuse block would take twice as much work but rest assured, if you start pulling 30 amps out of the battery the alternator needs to put it back in and that load gets put on the crankshaft. You don’t get anything for free.

 

I don't understand what you mean. If the fans draw, say, 30A, that's an additional 30 amps the alternator has to immediately deliver to the system to keep the battery charged while the fans are running.