348 Alternator

Bonjour Alex,

pourquoi ne pas le reconstruire?

quelle référence pour le tien?

avec un peu de recherche vous trouverez sur le forum de très bon post.

 

Do you need a complete alternator? Usually, individual components fail: Bearings, brushes, windings, regulators, rectifiers, etc.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-alternator-removal-rebuild.142329/

According to "TomDial" (Chris):

 

Alternator 31100PY3013 Acura/Honda. Make sure to get an IN220 regulator, the IN226 that comes in the Acura Alt is a 4 post plug, the 348's is a 3 post. Cars with IN220 regs. 90-91 Lexus ES250, 89-90 Toyota Camry 2.5L, 86-89 Toyota Celica 2.0L

 

For some time now, many alternator rectifiers have Avalanche type diodes which are not easy to test in the usual manner. They may show good with the forward voltage but, if something goes wrong with their "avalanche breakdown" (reverse current flow at certain reverse voltage), they may start allowing, in addition to the direct, also some reverse current flow which will affect their ability to fully rectify the AC current.

I have, so far, fixed 4-5 Denso alternators on few of my other cars and it was always the rectifier. I replaced the regulator and the brushes as a matter of course, even though the old regulator tested exactly the same as the new one. Typical signs of one or more failed rectifier diodes is inability of the alternator to produce 13.5 to 14 volts but only some 11-12 volts.

 

I had a similar problem with mine and replaced everything incl rotor, stator etc. I tried to replace just the regulator too and it left me stranded. Just do it all and be done with it

It was a nippondenso and I have all the part numbers for it which I'll post up in a bit.

Which alternator do you have?

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Miroljub, your knowledge of all things automotive electronics is extremely deep. It is not an accident. How?

 

Well, if you start getting very keen and start learning about electronics and car electrics, and start working on things (as a hobby), from your age of 13 and you are now....(never mind that)...you have many years of learning and experience.

 

One suggestion I would make is if you have an oil leak from cam cover/oil seal above dripping onto the alternator, then fix leak 1st!!! Alternators don't like oil, eats up stator & brushes quickly. Don't ask me how I know..... LOL!

 

Does your alternator have a 3 or 4 pin plug? That advertisement shows 4 pins. I thought the F348 had a 3 pin plug.

 

It is a 3 pin. I've seen posts where you can swap out the regulator (I think) for the 3 pin version.

When I was going down the path of a new alt, I think I had found posts that pointed to a Hyundai alternator from an Optima.

I chose to just rebuild mine. I'm trying to find my paperwork with all the part numbers. There are also some crappy regulators to that need to be avoided.

Will search tomorrow for all the part numbers. I still think I rebuilt the whole thing for like $125 USD.

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Thanks, David. I also see in Ernie's tutorial that it's a 3 pin plug.

So Alex really needs to make sure he's getting an alternator with the correct plug otherwise, he will also have to buy a new regulator (as his is suspected as being faulty).

 

I think Alex has already put a new regulator into his old alternator (which did not cure the problem) so he can just move it to the new alternator.

 

Yea but his issues continue.. just replace all the guts and be done with it.

Took me 1/2 hour to replace all the parts. For giggles I had my shop test it just to be sure... +checked the box on all tests.

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Sorry, guys... Didn't read the whole thread properly.

 

If you move the new regulator from the old to the new alternator, you can put the old regulator back into the old alternator because it is probably good. Then just get a new rectifier for the old alternator which should sort it out and you can keep it as spare.

What kills alternators on the 348s is, I believe, the two powerful radiator fans coming on simultaneously. That is probably more than 100 Amp load spike at the start-up of the fans. If you are good with electrical/wiring work, you could add a timer to delay the start-up of one of the fans by about 3-5 sec.

 

I don't think a too small battery would affect the alternator in any way. And when empty, a smaller battery will draw less amps then a bigger battery from the alternator when it is subsequently charged, probably no more than some 20 Amps. What probably happened was that, when the two fans came on, your smaller and not much charged battery could not cushion the big ampere "bang" and most of it went to the alternator.