348 R12 freon capacity?

It's in your owners manual with all the other fluid capacities: 150cc of oil, 2.4lbs R12.

 

R12 is a CFK and very harmful to the ozon layer
Also a green house gas: Global Warming Potential 8500x that of CO²
Banned worldwide since 1995!!
Plse do not use it

 

sounds like you know what your doing. I did find with a mercedes c55 I had, that I had forgotten about the vacum pump running overnight. I shut off the valves and gave it a few hours to check and see if they had moved for leaks and was happy they hadnt moved. after filling that car was very very cold, I had a pic somewhere but it was in the 20s coming out of the vents cold. since then when I charge a system i do the overnight vacum and I love it here in SC. To bad non of those cars have had cupholders by the vents it would be a great way to keep my beer cold!!!

 

I’m curious why you would go back? When everything is working properly R134 is an adequate cooling agent. I find R12 to just be a pain these days. You have to have a license to buy and use it so anytime you go low you have to pay someone else for something you could do yourself in 5 minutes with R134 which anyone can buy at any auto parts store or Walmart...

 

Nobody said it wasn’t... you’ll have to let us know if it actually improves the output temperature after changing back to R12.

 

In the case of R12, I don't weigh the cylinder when filling or topping-up. I use the well known method - fill until there are no more bubbles passing under the sight glass (occasional few bubbles a re ok).

 

The rest is not in the compressor but spread around the system. According to the table at the bottom of page 2 in the attached document, as a guideline, the Condenser, Evaporator and Filter Dryer take about 4 oz. (you can ignore the "Accumulator" shown in the table). Thus, you have the balance of 3 oz. in the compressor. The specified 7 oz. is when the whole system is completely dry. So, if you are not replacing any of the mentioned components, just put back 3 or so ounces. If replaceng, say, the Filter Dryer, add another ounce. Alternatively, you can flush the whole system (with a special AC solvent), leave the compressor to drain for a couple of days, replace the Filter Dryer (recommended anyway to be done at every disconnection of the components) and then you can put the whole 7 oz. in.

 

Your post rings a bell...

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/144706520/

The '90 ts I owned was previously converted to "Freeze 12", which is no longer available. "Freeze" was an understatement!


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But after the car blew its compressor clutch (on the way home from the car's full engine-out service) I had it fully converted to R-134a. It was still too cold to run at full blast, even during Florida summers.

My current '92 tb runs very cold using R-134a.

 

I just made a 10-day trip to France, Switzerland and Italy
On the way out is was very hot in France
Noted temps up to 38°C (100F) of outside air
Incoming air temp was as low as 12°C (55F)
Temp of A/C was set to 25°C as to not make it too cold in the car
Using R134a in my 348GTB

Conversion was done 3yrs ago, so still running fine

 

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When converting to 134a why aren’t folks saying you don’t need to swap expansion valve? Is it ok to use original and just change the dryer?

 

I wouldn't do without changing expansion valve, along with drier, and all O rings. Also, make sure to flush/drain all the
mineral oil that is not compatible with R12. POE or ester oil is your best choice for retrofit; it is compatible with both R12
and R134a.

 

Really want to stay r12, but its getting harder to obtain.

 

Just bought a jug on Offer Up