355 Alternator install help

Thats just how they are. There is a knack to it.
This is my way. I attach the tensioner bearing carrier with the x3 13mm nuts to the engine block. I do not put the tensioner bearing its self onto the spigot until the belt is on all the pulleys. Only then do i put the tensioner bearing onto the spigot from under so its pushing up on the belt in its intended way at the same time as sliding it on to the spigot. Then put on the bearing nut. Hope this makes sense.
Remember to turn your tensioner to its loosest position which is CLOCKWISE. Anti clockwise tightens the bearing/belt.
This may seem strange to read, but its correct, clockwise=loosen, anti.=tighten.
Hope this makes sense and helps.
This is only the way i have always done this procedure, others may have different methods that they may offer.

 

You might still be running the original bearing. Because we know it should just slide of the spigot, and assuming you have tried a pry bar and penetrating fluid ect. You might have no choice but to take of the whole unit and press it out with a vice and maybe replace the bearing center, there not much $£.
While its of, clean and grease the rear threaded parts of the adjuster.
There are two kinds of belt tensiomer, one is a whole unit (plastic maybe?, i cant recall) were the bearing centre cant be removed. The other is a metal one were the bearing slips into the center.

 

Tell me about it. But it's not just Ferrari though. I'm in the Industrial/Mechanical business now after being in the automotive world for 12 years and can tell you that some of the designs that are generated in the Engineering world would embarrass me if I was an Engineer. I think that it is a result of people designing on CAD and other computers and just sending it off. There is no more hands on like in the old days. I would bet that if you pulled the powertrain design engineers out of their offices and asked them to remove a component that should only take 15 minutes, but actually take 4 hours, they might do their job differently. But I do not blame them only, because I know that the corporate structure has made their job that way and all the corporations care about is profits, and not how difficult it is to service a vehicle after it has been sold to the public. Sad but true. I have been personally involved in the installation of some Mechanical designs that just flat-out did not work. Not on paper and not in reality. And the real shame was that the customer got the short end of the stick, because there is very little recourse for a botched design, other than the Engineering firm to attempt to cobble the system to try and get it to work-somewhat. But that is the world we live in today.

 

I do exactly this^ If the pulley won't slide off of the stud I would start there, should give you the clearance needed.

 

Yes thats correct, its some times hard to explain mechanical procedures while typing on a phone. But yes thats what i do.

 

Your welcome mate

 

I know its too late but i believe i used a prybar made of wood to pry alternator down and then put bolt through.
I only pryed on the bolt casting not actually the alternator because of risk of damage.