https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Ferrari-F355-GTS/254277192340?hash=item3b341a0a94:gYEAAOSwQTNdFBGP Pretty close to a perfect spec (IMHO anyway). Obviously the car is in rougher shape than the ad would lead you to believe. Does anyone know the story on this car? VIN ZFFPR42A4S0101712 Last time it bid up in the $50s w/ RNM.
Definitely needs some work. Interior sticky pieces, trim on lift off roof, right side engine bay piece missing and a paint correction are the quick glance items I’m seeing. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Also no mention of maintenance history. Could be looking at a huge bill to make it mechanically sound. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Right. I don't mind throwing $30k at a car if it is bought at a bargain ($50-60k). But their website has it available for $100k. and given the items you mentioned above it is well below the condition of a car that would be priced at current market value ($75-85k). I'm a Rookie here. Just tell me if I am missing something.
I think your estimates are a bit high without knowing the history. Has it been wrecked, any paint work, etc. definitely have a pre-purchase inspection done and get a compression check and leakdown down. I bought a 95 355 berlinetta a year ago knowing it needed a major. Mine had 14,000 miles on it with near perfect paint and interior. I just did the major, plus a full new exhaust system and new radiators and fans. These cars are old and the while we’re in there list can be big. I think to fix the sticky interior parts is $2k+ and a quality paint correction is about the same. My advice is buy the best car you can afford, that has maintenance history with receipts. If you look for a project, it may be over consuming on the budget. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Slightly off-topic... Should all cars have dome nuts on the cover between the intake manifolds/ "V"? I just have regular nylocs. That HVAC panel looks terminal. Definitely needs a new faceplate.
Slightly off topic, but unless someone can give a history, I'd avoid it. I bought mine from a dealer with service history, but no recent major, and thought... even if was a dud, how bad could it be? Major for belts = 10k Upgrading to a Tubi exhaust = 10k (high estimate I know) If it needs a valve job & head rebuild = 10k Clutch = 5k Tires, brakes, interior bits = 3-5k Shock rebuild = 3k Engine mounts = 1k Now you're at square 1 on a 24 year old car for up to 44k. Lets say you want the car to be reliable. Replacing a bunch of hoses during rebuild that are usually ignored = 3k Replacing broken sensors (there may be 1 or 2) = 1k Re-terminating the engine bay with the SRI kit = 10k (took me 60 hours in labor) Now we're up to 58k range for a sturdy platform. This is all very worst case, but that's why you buy cars with service records and a recent major service by some place that's reputable (or done with tons of photos). If you're handy with a wrench then it really doesn't matter as anything mechanical can be rebuilt, but know what you might be in for.
Solid advice that I've heard before and based on fboutlaw's comments probably the best route for me to choose. Thanks for the input gents!
Not saying it's inexpensive to sort a neglected car but I'd roll mine to the curb on garbage day before paying the above prices.
Let me know the day that happens I was "ballparking" $30k to bring a decent barn find up to speed and think that is fairly accurate (although I do recognize no two cars are alike). Between your high estimate of $58k and Chris's "cosmetic fixes only" of $4k, I think it is realistic. I want a driver, so sending it to Braden for a full restoration/repaint is off the table. I know the debate has been had on the forum before, but I think I'd rather buy a car that needs a major and get to dictate exactly what gets serviced rather than relying on a sellers mechanic.
My 1999 F1 is the absolute best daily driver. Just did 165 miles for an overnight trip. Ice cold AC and roll at triple digits when safe to do so. It is so sorted, reliable and no reason not use it. Could careless about road rash or rain. Washes up fine and my wife fell asleep in the passenger seat like any other vehicle she rides in. I have a garage queen 355, but this one is made to abuse Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's been said before but with these cars, just need to assess on an individual basis. 90 In regards to your last comment, what if you stumbled across a car that was just serviced by the same shop you would have brought it too anyway? I would prefer to do/dictate my own service if it was an independent dealers own techs just throwing belts on and doing the absolute minimum to call it "just serviced". Would see it as a value if it was just serviced by a shop with an excellent reputation. From what I've seen you would be better off putting that 30k towards the initial purchase than buy a lesser car to fix up.
+1 If you're not lucky enough to find one that recently had a dealer major, or one by a well-known indy shop (prob. 30% less,) your PPI should guide you well... IMO spending more up front is usually less risk and easier, (and sometimes cheaper in the long run.)
Not sure, but if they are 3k I would pass on that. Lots of overlapping labor there. Each item is probably worse case scenario if you did it all individually rather than together. Even then. 10k for gold plated terminals? Could probably pull every harness out of the car and have it duplicated new for less than that.
The gold kit is $1900 if memory serves. I looked into it and the kit plus labor was $4200. I passed on doing it. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
It is not a difficult "do it yourself". I am not super mechanically inclined and did it on mine. Took my time, probably over 4 evenings after work, and most of a Saturday. Just did it slow and careful, took notes and pictures as I took apart each connector. Then followed the SRI instructions for removing and installing the new pins, replace the boots and reassemble.
If you're looking for a project car in the $50k range, take a look at my 98 F1 in the classifieds section. You would just need to send the F1 system out to GTE engineering for a rebuild and I would have no concern driving the car across country. Everything else is solid.