And to complement what has been said already I'd like to add some anecdotal evidence. I have a well worn '86 Porsche track vehicle with 210K miles on it. The engine only has an 8:1 compression ratio but has a larger turbocharger and EFI. It makes little power and torque at idle. If I turn on the headlamps and/or rear hatch defroster at idle I can observe the idle speed drop off for short time until the computer compensates. This demonstrates the added torque needed to turn the alternator when there is a heavier electrical load on the system.
Here is an interesting article directly from Vintage Air on the topic: https://www.vintageair.com/tech-topic-is-an-electric-compressor-a-good-option-for-my-hot-rod/
Interesting article! As noted earlier, "power" has to come from somewhere. If it takes, say 5HP, to spin an AC compressor, the 5 HP is still required to be produced by the engine - it's just being used to operate a different belt-driven device. If the alternator could generate the necessary electricity to drive a 5HP device without drawing 5 HP from the engine, we would basically have created a perpetual motion machine!
Ok gang here we go... got some other opinions on how to do this and we settled on what your about to see. VERY EASY..... If we had started first thing this morning we would be done... did not get started till late this afternoon. We will be done with it tomorrow.. as long as I can solve one problem.... we now need to install new hoses. I am not sure at this point about the size of the connectors and where we will put the shredder valve... but here is some video and pics of where we are at right now. Image Unavailable, Please Login
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So after one full day off working on this we are now to the point of picking up the custom hoses needed. Only need two hoses leaving the others in place. One is 50 inches with a 90 degree on one end and straight connector on the other. The other hose is only 40 inches with a 90 on one end and straight on the other. The connections to the compressor with each have a service port that will make charging this unit so easy even I can do it. Got lucky in being able to remove the slide bolt on the top of the battery cover which allowed the power cords to run through the new opening. Hoses are just as easy since the paths are already clear and there. The big drain hole in the bottom of the wheel well is where on hose will run to the condenser. Another hole already exists over the shock tower that allows the second hose to run. Watch the video that will come out for better explanation.
2017 article... tech has moved on with sealed compressors and control units that can manage the load...
To provide the necessary BTU capacity, that compressor looks... awfully small!! But the installation looks great - nicely done! Hopefully, as you mentioned, technology has marched on and that small size can provide the necessary OOMPH to do the job! REALLY interested in the results!!!
just got the hoses in today so will let you know... thanks for the good thoughts but we will see... as you appropriately pointed out thanks and cross your fingers
Tony, I'd love to come by some day and see this job you are working on. Message me if that's possible. Thanks, Walt
Sure we are in the middle of the install right now putting in second can of r134a... should have it done later today... having some on off issues with controller we are working through..... But yes I am in Merritt island right near the BJ wholesale club..... Let me know and i can meet you there and you can follow me over 1 minute away...
Controller not working so on hold at this point..... waiting to hear from the seller to trouble shoot why it is not coming on....
Is 2 cans recommended? Could maybe be too much causing hi pressure switch to keep it off? Don’t know how big your cans are.
Re controller not working - does the system still use a hi/low pressure switch? Is it possible the system could be overcharged and therefore not activating?
calls for 900 and each can is 300 so going to try and put in three cans but nothing working after can one???
Could be under OR overcharged and not activate the compressor if it works the same way as typical AC system. Is the over/undercharge switch contained within the controller or is it still external - like OEM? If external you could jump the terminals to ensure that's not the problem. If it's within the controller...I haven't the faintest idea; much too hi tech for me! In any case, hope you sort it out quickly so we can get a performance report!
working on it and thank you for your thoughts.... plus the laugh as i need it right now..... waiting on the seller to get back to me but we will prevail and the video will show how we did it. thanks again for your thoughts
If somehow the system were overcharged when it was not running, the system would start and be cut off by the high pressure switch. You would have noticed that when you tried to start it. It would have run and then cut off. A non-running system will only charge to the point where the pressure in the system equals the pressure in the charging can providing the charging can is not heated. Overcharging occurs when the system is running because the pressure drops on the compressor suction side enabling overcharging because the suction side pressure is lower than the source pressure of the can.
Thank you we are looking into the controller which is showing a voltage fault right now.... having said that we are making sure the battery is properly charged... but yes you are correct and we will keep that in mind thanks again