Changed gear oil in tranny about 100 miles ago. Have taken the car out a few times and while the clutch pedal seems to have full pressure, even when I press it full to the floor hit the revs and go to change gears... it seems to grind a bit like I need a bit more clutch. Haven't had any issues to this point with the clutch or trans. Same gear oil I used last year. Brakes feel fine too..but I was thinking of bleeding the clutch anyhow. Any thoughts? I did a search but most of the posts say it doesn't disengage. Thanks in advance. David Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
The grinding you hear with fully depressed clutch pedal may be due to the "fingers" of the clutch pressure plate diaphragm spring contacting the clutch disc. This happens if the bottom stop of the clutch pedal is not adjusted correctly, i.e. if it is too low causing too much travel of the clutch release bearing and, consequently, too much inward push on the diaphragm spring "fingers" until they touch the rivets on the clutch disc hub. Have a look at the clutch pedal bottom stop - the rubber buffer may have perished or the stop just needs adjustment. Bring it up a bit and test the clutch for grinding sound again. The over-deflection of the clutch diaphragm should be avoided as it causes over-strain and may cause its early cracking. If the grinding disappears with a small (say a couple of millimeters of the bottom stop being brought up), bring the stop a few millimeters further up to be on the safe side.
Does the problem get worse the longer you hold down the clutch? That was my symptom when I had a bad clutch master cylinder. Initial application would produce good pressure, but then worn seals would allow the fluid pressure to drain back the longer I held down the pedal.
Sorry long to get back. So I re-bled the clutch again today. Normal cold tranny action. I also found by going a little more aggressive with the clutch pedal pressing not any grinding. But I am stomping on it. Its definately different than my 911 and maybe that's part of the problem. I do need to see if I can figure out the stop one of the guys mentioned and see if I need to adjust that as well. I still have about 1 - 1.5 inches of travel from clutch sitting at rest until it engages. It seems like more travel than had last year. The 911 is just there and I feel like I'm getting a leg workout with it. Ideas or other suggestions? Btw ..last major 1300 miles ago no leaks in triple seals all other aspects of clutch looked ok too. Pulled with the oil pan I think to replace oil chain tensioner. I did give her the old Ferrari tune up today and aside from the pedal travel issue, smashing clutch to floor seemed to work for zero grinding. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
If you can, compare your car to another 348. Also, I recall lots of similar comments over the years about the 348's clutch i.e. "leg workout". Mine seems okay to me, but then, I have nothing to compare it to.
No other 348' really close to me. Any other suggestions? Probably going to take it back to my indy who did the major on it last year. What about the slave cylinder in the clutch? Is there one? The brakes work fine.. just the darn extra play in the clutch. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I'm in NJ. Probably 3 hours north. My clutch is pretty easy to push and I have no issues outside the second gear cold engagement thing. What you describe I don't have, my clutch works like every other manual I have ever had including 911's.
Of course there is, it is a co-axial type. There are two coil springs that hold the slave cylinder (its throw-out bearing) always in contact with the "fingers" of the clutch pressure plate. One possibility is that the two coil springs are broken or forgotten during the last installation. If this is the case, you will have additional travel at the start of pressing the clutch pedal which would be eliminated if you do a quick "double-clutch". You probably need to inspect the clutch slave and its coil springs.
I have seen where the alignment tab for the tob broke off and the tob/slave twisted so the compression springs were cocked diagonally. Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using FerrariChat.com mobile app
So easy it's almost laughable (in a good way), especially when so many cars need the trans pulled to get at the clutch. And some need the whole eng/trans package to come out.
Ok a couple of thoughts. I went to wash car tonight and pulling out of garage and up street (for giggles) clutch felt great - like normal. Parked her, cleaned her up. Clutch sucked pulling back into garage. Yes - warmed up each time. Emailed my tech to set up an appt and he said could be the pressure place and or release bearing seals. On a whim I removed the trunk cover to poke around and see if there were any leaks. Found one interesting leak at part number 55 in the attached diagram - small but there. Of course it look unavailable but I'm wondering if that could be one issue. Could I drop the clutch and just take the assembly to the tech? Or just take the whole car? I know I'm being a cheap b**tard. Thanks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
The big part in that red circle is the Clutch Master Cylinder, and yeah, any leaks need to be fixed. So do that one first since you already know about it. Then tackle the clutch pack afterwards. If you're unable to do any of this yourself then it's best to have a knowledgeable tech go over the whole system. As long as there aren't any issues with the clutch pack then I can't imagine it being very expensive.
Sometimes the plastic hose adapter develops cracks. You can use one for BMW clutch masters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1987-1993-BMW-325i-Clutch-Hydraulic-Hose-Connector-36473TH-1992-1988-1989/292739871231?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Db9b99e1f0b884a96ac956f40e8aedc94%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D151777869315%26itm%3D292739871231%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Sweet thanks! Gonna order a master cylinder anyhow. While not out of the realm of things.. bad stuff at rear of car seems odd. Gonna try stuff at front first. Thanks again for part tip... that price is better than the ~90 for the HOTB part. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
