Dropped 1-6 Bank After Washing Or Sitting In Heavy Rain

I recently have been having the same issues with the check engine and slow down lights.
All this info will help.
Thank you

 

Shamile, Awesome! These cars arent a a frickin Rubicks cube. Whith that said, they arent exactly easy to figure out.....so take that to the food truck outside the workshop.

Thats why I had to tear mine apart to re do the plastic parts. Talking about the cube not the car.

When I had a wet-no-work scenario on my 911, I just went with a simple solution of covering grids until I could pin point the offending party. (It was the first coil pack). Replaced them all and all is good after a good douching rain fall. Its so easy even a caveman can do it. Start with a spray bottle of water, some Lynard Skynard, and a bottle of Petron.

Shamile...we will toast the the F Gods next time I roll in to the Lords waiting room. Carpe FPimp or somethimthing.

 

and when finished a bottle of beer or wine

 

We speak the same language my friend!

 

Great work!!
Ps:there is one for sale on eBay with 82k miles; u are catching up!


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Here is a potential solution to the connector working itself loose. The cables constantly tug at the connection and its weight tries to work the connector loose. Some safety wire routed from under the tank to the two wire looms will take the load off the cables and help it to stay secure.


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My car is now running rough after washes and in high humidity. Is this the part to which you are referring that needs cleaning and greasing?

 

No. Thats the connect to the ignition module.

The connector this thread refers to is under the coolant reservoir

 

Ok, thanks for clarifying. I’ll take a second look when I’m back to the car.

 

These are the connections you want to inspect. Note that my coil is removed from the car for replacement.
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Thanks so much for the visual—will get to it and report back as soon as I can. I’ve already bought the dielectric grease, cleaner, and brush. Fingers crossed.

 

Shamille- good eye!! Thats my car. There’s only a boot on the rectangular connector, correct? I’m going to look to find one from a parts supplier.

 

I cleaned and greased the connections as per above but it didn’t work this time. The car was then sent off to the shop and came back home today with two ‘new’ coils installed. The problem is fixed, and the car has never run so well or sounded so good since I’ve had it.

 

Coils are such a frustrating problem because its intermittent until it fails for real. My coil going bad dragged out a year and across a major having been done!

Oh, and one thing: generic coils/modules can be had to the tune of $200 for 2x coils AND 2x modules. While I hate to recommend blindly replacing parts, if you ever have problems with running and know your coils/modules are old then it may be worth just doing the replacement.

 

Yesterday I had 1st problem in almost 10 years of my TR ,not running on 1-6 bank. Cleaned all connections and now running fine again.

 

When I wash my BBi I put a large plastic garbage bag over the engine. It keeps water out of all the little spaces and electricals on top of the engine..has always seemed to work OK.

 

That’s good information about affordable generic coils being an option. Mine came rebuilt from a specialist in the UK for probably double the price you cited above.

 

Where can these generic coils be obtained?

 

I bought all from Amazon. There are two different style coil connections that exist on the TR, one is a single connector with four pins and one is two connectors with two pins each. Make sure you match the coil to your car.

There is also an earlier coil that looks very different. This requires an earlier style heat sink to mount it. If you have the earlier type I think its easiest to buy a used heat sink off a breaker. They run about $50.
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