I am gonna be at least a week due to old age and back failure. Ha ha Keep you updated as I can. Will also get you that pic you wanted at that time Ian
Here's an updated power diagram with some new alarm system wiring (with thanks to "ferraridriver") 5/355F1 Injection/Ignition Wiring Diagram No changes relevant to the subject at hand
I number of years ago I had a bad disk problem. Literally could not stand up due to nerve pain. Doctor was talking MRI and surgery. I had high deductible insurance at the time so the Dr said we could try medication first, but gave it little chance. I less than a week I was up and walking normally and haven't had a back problem since. Total cost to me, $2. Bad? Relative to what? Must be used properly.
Cortisone is bad full stop. Got pumped with the stuff as a kid in the 70's for asthma. Bad stuff. Does damage and you don't even know it!!!!. That's my bit on it nothing else to say. Good luck with your back hope it comes good.
Ok so I’m back Finally had a weekend to mess with the car Started at the beginning and worked through it. Everything check out ok so only thing was crappy spark now on bank 2. Pulled all plugs and started checking some plugs were bad. Changed all plugs and car runs now but bank 1 seemed like it was still not great even though all plugs were firing. Idle was barely over 650 so started checking idle control valve. Tested valve with Leonardo and seemed to work ok but I removed it any way and left it plugged in because car would not idle with it unplugged Idle came up to about 1000 wtf Engine still seemed quite rough and I noticed a bit of smoke after shutting off coming from the main air intake on bank 1 Seems like it could be oil smoke Any ideas?? Or questions
Can now rev car up to about 2000 but seems like engine is still idling rough Never had an engine be out of timing but figure it’s likely mechanical which caused plugs to foul Here are some pics while running Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just to clarify: You removed the idle air controller from the inlet trunking, but left it plugged in electrically? i.e. you were getting air for the idling system directly from the engine compartment, rather from the air filters/ normal inlet trunking? Wouldn't that mess with both the idle air flow (at idle) and the amount of air going to the engine with the throttle above idle? i.e. The MAF wouldn't have a proper reading on airflow. I don't know if this would have contributed to an increase in idle speed.
Yes but I was just trying to get it to idle. So the engine will run on 4 cylinders. I believe I am either getting no fuel or cam timing is out. Unplugged each injector 1at a time on bank 1 and no difference in the idle with a small amount of Smokey haze coming from bank 1 Will pull plugs to check them but I am thinking it’s likely fuel. Then will check the fuel valve which opens under vacuumed because this hose was replaced at my major and maybe the hose failed as I could not get a factory replacement I believe.
Stoogapoluzza is 10/26/19. Why don't you bring the car and we can take a crack at it? These cars are too simple to have the problem for 22 pages.
Yes I wish I could but timing won’t work out fbb. I know all you guys are capable. Getting down to the nitty gritty though. Won’t be long I am just documenting everything for everyone so others might get some good info and see how you can get bad info as well. What I learned is you never discount anything. I believe someone said 10 plus pages ago to check the plugs. Also many of us have never disconnected things to see how the car runs so we do not know what it runs like when say the cam sensor is unplugged.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Because I believe very little fuel is getting to the RHS bank 1 can someone explain how the pressure regulator #4 and union #20 work.
Pressure regulator 4 requires a constant vacuum signal on the vac port to produce the correct regulated fuel pressure. The item 44 is a simple one way valve so that there is always vacuum on the regulator side even if there is fluctuating vacuum signal on the other side of the port.
!thanks Mitchel does anyone have any suggestions how to test or should I just switch the two of them to other side and see if that works and bank 2 goes down
If your car has a schreider valve at the end of the fuel injection rails, then you attach a fuel pressure gauge to that valve to see if the regulated fuel pressure is within specs (about 55 psi). You can also disconnect the vacuum hoses to see if there is fuel in the line which indicates the diaphragm has ruptured and the regulator is bad. When all else has failed, swapping left to right or swapping with a known good regulator will give some data. Beware that the fuel pressure regulators for the 355 are no longer available and very hard to find.
The source of vacuum are the four ports at the bottoms of the throttle bodies. This vacuum is directly applied to the pressure regulator (FPR). The vacuum varies with the engine state - idle and cruise, higher vacuum; acceleration (open throttle), lower vacuum. The FPR responds to these vacuum changes by lowering the pressure somewhat at higher vacuum and increasing the pressure at lower vacuum. This is to keep the flow through the injectors independent of the amount of vacuum in the intake manifold, otherwise the injector flow would be higher at higher vacuum and lower at lower vacuum for the same pulse width. The non-return valve (#20) has no effect on the vacuum on the FPR. As the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies also provide vacuum for other things, the non-return valve is there to keep that vacuum separated from the varying vacuum to the FPR so that other vacuum operated things do not affect the FPR operation. There is usually a reservoir in the vacuum system for other things and the non-return valve will keep that vacuum stored even after the engine has been switched off.
The regulators look like they are pretty hard to access: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/question-about-battery-alternator-function-at-idle.555243/page-2 Perhaps not a good idea to swap them over (o-ring damage, etc)? Unfortunately, they are rather expensive even though they are a stock (but discontinued) Bosch part (0280160564) Australian dollars or US dollars? I just see $357.63 https://www.ozautoelectrics.com/bosch-0280160564-pressure-regulator-280160564.html
SPA Turbo are offering an adjustable (non Bosch) FPR for the 355 at $269.90: https://spaturbousa.com/collections/air-fuel-delivery-1/products/ferrari-355-456-550-512-in-rail-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-e85-safe They also have a similar adjustable FPR, which may fit the 355 rail with some adaptation (spacers to the "ears" and push-on return hose) at $89.90: https://spaturbousa.com/products/vw-g60-bmw-e30-volvo-in-rail-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-fpr-vlrpf201
If you are going to pull the plugs you might as well do a compression test and get that out of the way.
Anyone have any idea on the vacuum the engine has let’s say at idle and about 5000rpm and 8500 rpm Just curious
18-20 is normal. After reading a couple of pages of this, you have a mechanical problem. Pull the valve covers and check timing. It's a cam to crank correlation issue. Not an electrical one as far as I can tell. You may have jumped a toothed or 2..until this issue is varied, I suggest you dont run the car.
I hope not but I said before it might be timing. I thought the car would still run with 1 tooth out since I believe some one did this before. Will car idle without plenum cover reasonably?
The car will run with one tooth off, but it will throw a SDL and shut the one bank off. No bent valves though.
