It was very time consuming. I used small wooden, plastic, and fiberglass sticks. I used the green pad to wear down some of the thicker areas. Any metal tool will remove paint. Take frequent rest breaks or your hands will be very sore.
I tried some alcohol, but stopped when paint color appeared on cloth. It was delicate work. Luckily, I have a quart can of the original paint from the factory for touch up purposes.
Sounds like your car wears the original paint. That's the problem with the original TPA-paint (thermoplastic acrylics), they used thru 1980. It's very sensitive regarding solvents. My car had a bare metal repaint in 1999 and the two pack clear coat doesn't meanwhile even respond to laquer thinner.I managed to soften the glue residue with cleaning solvent this evening. It's still a PITA to get rid of the old glue. Best Martin
There is a product called “Goo Gone” that I’ve used to remove glue residue. Works great but don’t know if it would remove paint. It was created just for this purpose. https://googone.com/ Says can be used on car paint.
I found a hair dryer useful to remove the residue and rolling the glue off but still a pita. I had original rubbers and they were not quite glued into the corner of vertical and horizontal. About 2mm gap on the vertical surface.
Back then I used a rubber glue heat resistant up to 120 centigrades I would be happy, if it had sticked to the rubber half as good than on the painted sheetmetal. Maybe the problem actually was the release agent Richard mentions above, which I didn't remove. Best Martin
3M adhesive remover. And you need to use it liberally; it needs to soak into the glue, and then a combo of a rag and plastic scraper (be gentle) will encourage the glue off. I've seen a guy spray a small bit of 3m on a panel and the immediately rub with with a paper towel. That works very poorly.
I began with the worst area and actually managed to remove the glue. I used a mixture of cleaning solvent with a bit of paint thinner (!) Don't do this with original TPA-paint. But my 20 years old 2-pack clear coat remained unmolested. It even didn't need much rubbing. Pressing a thoroughly soaked cloth rag against it for some 10 seconds does the trick. I have decided a timeline of doing a few inches/day. Outside temps approach 40 centigrades and garage temps -though perfectly insulated and inhouse- slowly rise beyond having fun with solvents. Image Unavailable, Please Login Best from Germany Martin
Given the fact. that it's so much work to remove the old glue remains I decided NOT to reuse my old gaskets, but to purchase new ones. What I did today. Many thanks to Andrew McCrae, who pointed me to a European source supplying the correct profile regarding the section with the flat surface, which has to be glued as opposed to the other available profiles, which are making the work a pita because of the bulged profile. http://www.cicognaniguarnizioni.it/guarnizione-sottoporta-dx-sx-_set-completo_-16327178_7178?search=16327178 It's even not too expensive. Though italian shipping costs are still another pita given the fact, that it's just a few miles across the Alps. Some call us European Union, but that's a different topic. Image Unavailable, Please Login Best from Germany Martin
I can't claim too much credit Martin as another fchatter mentioned them. What is very interesting is this company specialise in rubbers so are potentially a better source for any rubber parts than the car part suppliers.
While waiting for my new gaskets and looking at the section I actually wonder about the correct orientation. On one side there's a radius. The other side is a sharp edge. Before writing a long text difficult to understand I made a quick drawing. Which is correct? A or B? Image Unavailable, Please Login Best Regards and thanks in advance Martin
On mine which was 100% original there was a distinct gap of about 2mm. (B) I don't recall a radius on the rubber but my rubber was totally dried up. Cross section photos of original attached. I think a gap would also assist flexing when door is closed. I'll be interested on your thoughts Martin when you get the rubber as I may buy it to replace my Superformance strip. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hmmm! Strange. Ferrari issue? Mine is April 1980. You're probably sure yours were original and I'm quite sure mine was original looking at the condition. Not important IMHO. The important bit to me is I had a gap of about 2mm to the horizontal surface. I think this would be needed to ensure the rubber has room to fold when the door closes.
I have replaced my gaskets 15 years ago, but they looked exactly like those, which were on the car, when I bought it. Car was 16 years old back then and I think, noone had replaced the gaskets before. Would love to see definitely original ones and how they were glued regarding orientation and cutouts for the drain holes. Best Martin
Martin, I just received my gaskets from Eurospares and it is exactly like your old gasket profile. Have you decided if the thin or thicker edge goes up? My first thoughts are thin side up to make seal on and over door ledge and thicker to seal lower door to lower door ledge. Rob
Hi Robert, unfortunately not. I got mine today from Italy. See my post further above. They are almost symmetric and have a perfectly flat back. Means, they are slightly different, than those I had on my car. 'Almost symmetric' means, there's a radius on one edge an a sharp edge on the opposite side and I have to decide where to place the radius. And they are not foam pad rubber, but solid, though very supple. But there's another problem, I already had with the old ones. On my passenger door, manufacturing tolerances caused, that the surface for glueing the rubber, where the door shape curves upwards, is 1mm too narrow. So the gasket will protrude by 1-2mm. It's unremarkable, when the door is closed, though not nice to have :-| Best from Germany Martin
Robert, I just went out to my garage and took this pic (84QV) and I know for a fact mine is original but it seems to have thin edge on both sides. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mike, Could you double check two things: 1 in Martin’s discussion above he mentions a radius on one edge, is there one on yours? 2 looking real close is one lip softer or slightly thinner than the other?
Robert, I took a shot from the bottom of the door, definitely mine has the radius (A) and both lips has the same firmness or softness. Looks like I’m going to need some of this rubber seal too. Image Unavailable, Please Login