Hello Eric, meanwhile I saw your result you printed from my .stl file. And it's great! At this occasion I want to underline, that I am willing to share my CAD-data and associated 3D-print files with everyone here for strictly personal use, if I can be sure, that there's no commercial use intended. So, anyone of you who's interested please drop me a PM. Old friends or 'LED-handbrake lever light - customers' preferred of course Best from Germany Martin
Martin, this is very generous of you - could you send me a copy too - own personal use of course. mark at mld.tw Many thanks Mark
Dave, you have a PM. Best way for future requests is sending me a PM (conversation) giving me a valid e-mail address at the same time for attachment of the file. Best from Germany Martin
The job is DONE!! Windows go up and down smoothly, nearly as fast as johnk... shows in his video above. Many thanks to Birdman for his write-up, and everyone who posted above with their tips, experiences, etc. Special thanks to Martin308GTB who so kindly provided the 3D model for the "window motor installation helper". I've attached a few photos of the tool in action, and I can't tell you how nice this was to have compared to trying to tie wrap the cable. A few observations that may help future repairers: 1. Definitely eliminate the easiest sources of the problem first (switches, fuses, etc.). This is not a particularly difficult job, but I agree with Ferraridoc--it's every bit of 20 hours to do both doors. Just a lot of disassembly, note/photo taking, cleaning, cleaning, CLEANING, and fiddly reassembly. 2. Re-use the cable if you can. I was lucky in that everything inside my doors was in great shape. Motors, cables, window stops and guides all fine. It was just the suspected hardened lube in the gearbox that created the problem. (photo shows some of the dried lubricant--worm gear shown for perspective) Image Unavailable, Please Login . 3. As many have said, make good notes and take lots of photos. There are a few things that can trip you up if not done correctly. These 2 photos show how the tool clamps on the spool to hold the cable in place: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Shows the motor ready for installation, tool in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hmmm. For commercial use I could imagine a deal, which makes a win-win situation out of this Best Martin
Just throwing this out there... if there was a ready-made version of this tool, I'd buy at least 1 - possibly 2 - of them, depending on the price.
Hi friends, after a few thoughts and conversation with Eric (eracer) I have decided the following. Due to the fact, that I have a current project for a consumer project running, which needs a lot of trial and error regarding 3D-print and cost me a lot of time and money regarding professional suppliers I decided to purchase an own 3D-printer. Not for serious prototype parts manufacturing, which I will still leave to the pros in the future, but for own first tests and experiments which will save me a lot of time and money. And to get a feel for functional plastic parts after decades long design and construction of heavy steel machinery. Means I will print a small run of the cable tool myself and offer it at a reasonable price for you in the near future. Thanks Eric for convincing and encouraging me. Best from Germany Martin
Great choice Martin! Please let me know if I can help you with the settings on the initial run. Eric Sent from my moto g(6) using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Many thanks for your offer Eric. I actually wondered if I may bother you Questions will follow soon. Best from Germany Martin
It sounds like a few of us have 3D printers now. Commercial enterprises aside, it might be interesting and worthwhile to start a separate "3D Printing for 308s" thread to share files for tools or items that people have found useful or have created to fill a need?
This looks like a Tool Box "must have"!! Amazing that cleaning that gunk out alone can fix it, my windows have all but stopped, I just leave them there. Don't tell anyone it stays under the cover....LOL
Cleaning the old gunk out, regreasing, cleaning connectors and fixing switches can actually restore the windows to how they came from the factory. Not lightning fast, but o.k. When I did the job 18 years ago I was amazed, what I found inside the gear. The same like Eric showed above. After the job the windows worked o.k. till early this year, when a switch began making trouble. Cleaned it and fixed it with a bit of conductive grease -have opened a thread about it- and they are back to factory condition. Relays, window accelerators are often just curing the symptoms. I actually had a failing gear/motor assembly. But it had nothing to do with slow or non-working. it was the ratchet mechanism for the emergency handle, which began to slip occasionally accompanied by nasty noises when reaching the upper or lower stop. Luckily no new motor assemblies from questionable sources back then in 2000. So TRutlands sold me a perfect used one for $100.00 incl. shipping overseas. Good ol' times. Best from Germany Martin
Some have, but most of those to whom I have sent the file so far have no own printer, but plan to upload the file and order from shapeways or similar. Best from Germany Martin
Do any of you guys know if this tool to hold the cable on the spool will work on the 365/400/412 cars? If so I'd really like to get one. I really need to work on my windows but have heard how difficult it is to keep the cable on the spool. Thx.
I have no knowledge of those models, but just to comment, if they use the same motor/spool assembly and there is access in the door for you to reach up and remove the tool once the cable is strung around all the pulleys, it should work. Sent from my moto g(6) using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I used a relay in each door and the windows now work great. I had tried lots of other things but the relay did the trick. The motors pull lots of current so I had to fuse each at 15 amps.