I vouch for the drive cycle listed here. Worked like it was supposed to and passed emissions.
Would a 2000 360 eventually reset then readiness monitors from just driving, and not having to do the listed drive cycle?
The whole problem with 360's is the Ferrari programming to shut off the O2 sensor monitors is too tight. The output cycle of the sensors is not reaching a certain threshold. That is why the dealers could get them to pass by re-flashing the ECU. I talked to the guy at the referee sta in Ca and he said that other mfg like Porsche have lots of exceptions that are done through the CA EPA. Unfortunately there is not one for the Ferrari 360. I guess months of driving will eventually do it also--
Where are you guys finding the roads to pull this off? It's almost impossible to pull those times off at those rpm's unless your on a deserted 5 mile highway. I've put almost 400 miles on and tried to follow the instructions as best as I can. The car passes all the emissions but will not pass the ECU read due to no data for the Evap still.
Took it out for a drive, put 65 regular miles, mostly highway, and passed inspection with no problem, the only thing I did was one step I read here, and that was to bring it up to 4500 rpm in fourth gear and let it coast down to 2000 rpm in fourth gear without using any brakes or downshifting, not sure if that had anything to do with it passing inspection, but all the readiness monitors were all set to go.
Thanks for taking the time to post this info. I recently purchased a 2000 360 and one readiness monitor (oxy sensor) is not set = will fail CA smog. I'll try the drive cycle listed above and see how things go. Luckily? I am very familiar with the process since I had to do something very similar for my 993. Never did steps 4 & 5 in the P car world though Ciao Craig
Okay guys let me take a stab at this....... OBDII ECM's run continuous and non-continuous monitors and the monitors are what set DTC's and turn on the CEL. Continuous monitors protect the Catalytic Converter and are the misfire monitor, fuel system monitor and what's called the comprehensive component monitor. The non-continuous monitors only run when "enabling" criteria are met. That's where the Drive Cycle comes into play. The Drive Cycle puts the non-continuous monitors into its enabling criteria so they can run. Non-continuous monitors are O2 Sensors, EVAP, Catalytic Converter, 02 Sensor Heater, etc. The ECM is programed to run the monitors in a certain sequence. The Catalytic Converter Monitor uses 02 Sensors to run its monitor so the 02 Sensor monitor must run first and pass before the Cat. can run. Some Monitors are what's called two trip Monitors. The monitor must run and fail two times in a row before a CEL is set. The first failure sets a pending code but no CEL is turned on, only the subsequent failure will then set the CEL. Someone mentioned Mode 6 data. Mode 6 data is the sensor data that the ECM is looking at when the monitors are being run. Its the software data that is programed by the engineers at the manufacturer. It has min/max data that if the sensor falls out of that range means there is a fault in the monitor being run. Some Techs use the mode 6 data to find out which sensor is reporting the failure to isolate the problem. A good Tech will verify the fix by making sure the monitor that set the DTC runs after the fix and that the DTC does not reappear. In other words the ECM verifies the repair.
I realize this is an old post that I'm responding to, but as a new 360 owner needing an emission check, I found the information critically important. And I have to agree that the Ferrari-recommended procedure is a bit onerous and not 100% clear - I wasn't looking forward to it. I found that the post above by "espvh" worked, and is simple. Here is my starting point, and the variation that worked for me: My car came from a county that didn't require emission checks, so one hadn't been done in over 2 years. The nearest Ferrari dealer to the seller was 2.5 hours away, and I decided to roll the dice rather than require an emission check before the sale (or a PPI, for that matter!) because the distance added so much more trouble. The seller's habit was to turn off the battery at the disconnect rather than use a battery tender, so it's likely none of the readiness indicators would have given a thumbs-up. 1) I drove the car "a lot". For me, that was a mix of city/highway for 250 miles over a 2-day period. For others, you might get away with as little as 60 - 100 miles. 2) The day of the emission check, I started the car and let it idle 5 minutes. I used a fan to blow exhaust fumes out of the garage so that I could leave the car untouched after startup. 3) I drove mildly until temperatures came up to normal. 4) I found a road with a 55 MPH limit and little traffic, took the car up to about 4700 RPM in 4th and held it for a second, then backed off the gas and let it coast down just below 2000 RPM. 5) Went directly to the emission check and passed the first time out. I had a wee bit of a scare because the shop didn't have a gas cap adapter to fit a Ferrari. The technician said he could just bypass the cap pressure test, which he did, and there were no other problems. I hope this helps someone else pass the emission check without bothering with the full Ferrari procedure.
To the OP, I drove mine for 200 miles after replacing the battery and not all monitors are ready even after a mixture of city and highway driving. Some of the "tricks" mentioned in this thread will work for some (Depending on what monitors are ready and not ready). Their not a "one size fits all" procedures due to each monitor that are not ready will have different needs. Following the procedures in the Ferrari TSB covers all the driving style that the monitors are programmed to acknowledge to complete the drive cycle and always does the trick for me after replacing the battery. Also bought a OBD2 reader that shows smog readiness ($50) to make sure I don't end up going to a smog shop and finding out it hasn't completed it's drive cycle.
Point well taken. However, I can't help but wonder if you had performed the 5 minute idle from cold and the 4500 to 2000 RPM spin down if you would have had the same experience I did. I posted my findings in the hopes that someone else might be saved some trouble. But, you are right that the full recommended Ferrari procedure is best as long as their are no physical problems with the car.
I followed vincenzo post #3 on this thread to set all my readiness on my 01 modena. It worked the first time I went through this lengthy drive cycle this week. I have after market catless headers w aftermarket 200 cell cats, with o2 ext…. No cel w this setup. I did show an old code for o2 sensor slow to respond…. But upon reset and drive cycle.. code did not return. just got my insp done and all items ready. Big thx to this thread. now that covid is over insp sticker enforcement is back in play under your local overpass.
I, too, have heard it can be shortened. But I found something that works, and I only have to do it a few more years, so I'm sticking with it. BTW, the procedure I posted is modified from what Ferrari printed - they stated one of the conditions backwards (can't remember which one) and my post shows the correct full procedure.
Having the same issues trying to get the catalyst readiness sensor to come on in my F12. One of the biggest problems in SoCal is finding the right road for this. I know where some are at but they are about 20 mins from my house so i wouldn't be able to start the drive cycle till then. Will this be an issue?
I just wanted to thank you guys for sharing. I used steps #1 and #2 of the drive cycle. Towards the end of step #2 all the tests were ready. My passenger was monitoring the test cycles with an OBD 2 reader the whole time. At that point we drove to the emissions test place and my car passed. Mauricio 360 Spider 2002
Just to update an old thread: I did multiple drive cycles and was able to get the EVAP light to come on. However, when I rechecked the OBD 2 scanner 5 minutes later, it was listed as not ready. This happened several times. What I found out is checking the EVAP readiness with your OBD 2 scanner after using the drive cycle may reset it and show that it’s not ready. I just did an emissions testing after doing the drive cycle and passed with flying colors.
