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Exploding shocks

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by papou, Mar 30, 2018.

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  1. papou

    papou Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    May 18, 2012
    1,577
    plantation Fla
    Full Name:
    daniel ross
    My bombs were less than a year old when this happened to me, all 4 rebuilt (DeltaVee) shocks 3,000 miles 90% of all my
    driving is in sport mode and the car sits for long periods up to 3 months with out being driven, car is always garage kept
    out of Florida harsh rubber killing sunshine, My mechanic Adrian Farinato a member here is as baffled as all here and I
    might add Adrian has the respect of all the S Florida car community..
     
  2. asgor

    asgor Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2016
    705
    Virginia, USA
    So, exactly what happens when one activates the dashboard switch on a 456 to change the damping mode? How is the fluid pressure in the accumulators augmented/diminished according to the chosen setting? Whatever it is that sets the pressure, could it be that it fails to operate properly and doesn't stop once the setting pressure is achieved and causes the accumulators to blow up?
     
  3. Mossboss48

    Mossboss48 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 12, 2018
    6
    Melbourne Australia
    Full Name:
    Chris Moss
    Interesting thread, lots of suggestions as to why it may have happened but I did not read anything illuminating
    Ok lets see if the following makes sense
    A hydraulic oil accumulator sits between the hydraulic pump and any thing else that is hydraulically driven within the system is after it
    The accumulator is charged with an inert gas at a particular pressure, in this case 22 Bar
    The hydraulic pump maintains that pressure constantly by supplying oil to the accumulator, any demand from the system will be supplied from the accumulator There is a pressure relief valve set just above the required setting, it will close stopping the flow back to the reservoir and into the accumulator, or it will open to by pass back to the reservoir at any pressure above its setting, the pump will maintain constant pressure to the accumulator
    So any pressure above this setting will bypass back to the reservoir via a pressure relief valve, which is built into the hydraulic pump or along the supply line
    Suggestions of weak metal at manufacturing stage have to be discounted as the weakest part, as per photo, would be where the thread has been cut making the wall even thinner at the bottom of the thread, so a split by over pressure would most likely be across around the threaded area not parallel to the body
    It is doubtful that the delivery hoses would survive the required pressure to burst the body They would go first that's assuming the pressure relief valve has failed or jammed
    Hard to imagine that, since their are a simple ball or a very small piston with a spring and adjusting screw so if the spring goes the valve will be open from the pump to the reservoir which means there will be no pressure to even to charge the accumulator
    On the point that the accumulator has gone bad the same applies any over-pressure from the hydraulic pump will by pass back to the reservoir, the relief valve is set just above the accumulator pressure, any failure in the accumulator, it means that the pump will work twice as hard to maintain a constant pressure while there will be some lagging to the system function as the demand for oil may not be met with the flow capacity of the pump at low rpm
    Hydraulic pumps can run up to 200 bar, around 2850 psi easily It is very likely the hoses are rated at least 4000 psi burst pressure,
    While keeping in mind that "You cannot compress liquids" any bursting of these will cause a mess of oil all over the place but hardly a danger
    This does not apply for gases including air, compressed gases or air are very dangerous
    To me it seems there is torsional twist on the shock from the mounting point at the bottom joint to the top resulting in metal fatigue which will create a hairline crack than it will burst the way it has along the axis and it will not require a lot of pressure either
    I would look to see worn rubber bushes, (Flanblocks)?, top and bottom as well as the lower and upper arm mountings to the chassis to ensure there is no movement laterally, but only up and down
    Hopefully the above throws some light on the matter as i found it intriguing
    best
     
  4. bergxu

    bergxu Formula 3

    Aug 16, 2005
    1,305
    OnTheSerpentMound
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    The dash switch actually changes the internal shock damping via the actuators on top of them. The accumulators are more for the “spring” action than dampening, so not really any changes happening in the bombs themselves, all in the shocks.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     

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