Shift shaft seals

It's a fairly simple job but car really needs to be on a ramp, as the gearbox sump needs to come off and you need to split the gear linkage rod in the engine compartment.

 

Here’s what you will be dealing with, Beside what Simon said, you also need to remove engine oil pan, remove the oil deep stick tube, and when removing the gearbox pan, be careful not to lose the three ball bearings and the the springs and make sure to put them back exactly where they came from as they are different lengths.

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I don’t know any Alfa’s or any other cars has the same set up as the 308.

 

Jack Stands will work just fine.

That's what I used.

 

I think the Countach did as well, but ...

Seems logical at first blush, for Many/Most/All(?) MID-Engined cars.

 

Countach has the shift lever direct into the box, no control rod passing into the engine sump, just the drive from the gearbox to the differential.

 

I used jack stands too.

John.

 

Thanx.

Learned something new.

 

I did mine early this year and had some difficulties one of which was my own doing. The first difficulty was getting the rod that passes through the engine's sump into the transmission out. There was not sufficient room to get it completely out of the engine sump. Rifledriver suggested rotating the engine by loosening three of motor mounts but I could not get them loose. The only other option was to remove seats and center console which is tedious but is what I did. I carefully measured the position of the shift rod before removal.

The second difficulty was getting the old and hardened seals out. I got a little overzealous and accidentally removed the retaining washer on the outside of the engine. However, upon reassembly I was able to restake it using a center punch. Aluminum is quite soft making restaking easy.

I reassembled using the X seals sold by a member of Ferrarichat. They are very tight. It was difficult to get the shift rod back into its position through the new seals. I lubed it up and tried to push it through but no go. I was not strong enough. Finally, I got hold of it with vice grips on the unmachined portion and shoved and twisted it into position. The shifting was very stiff at first but now, about 1K miles later, is as easy as before.

Prior to seal replacement, I did not have an external leak but had noticed my shifting getting more difficult. I also noticed my engine was a little low on oil which is never the case. I checked the transmission and its contents flowed out implying the inner seal had failed and motor oil had entered the transmission.

If you choose to do the job yourself replace BOTH seals. BTW, I have a car lift in my basement but I am sure it could be done by using jack stands.

Here is the thread about my 'adventure'.
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/shift-seal-leaking-internally.591543/

 

If you haven't seen the Countach's engine situation you should find a cut away drawing. It's an enormous V12 with a standard transmission bolted to the end exactly like you'd expect in any front engine/rear drive car. The whole thing is stuck in the car backwards with the bell housing just behind your butt, the trans between the seats and the stick on the end of the trans pops up right under the driver's hand. The output of the trans turns right around and goes back under the trans and engine to a diff. If you see the whole assembly when removed from the car you'd swear there is no freaking possible way all of that engine and trans fits in that little car.

***Edit* Found a picture.

OK, enough L-Chat, back to F-Chat....

 

Rod, PM me your address and I'll send you two. You can owe me a beer. I warmed them up with hot water and stretched them over something round (a tapered shot glass) and then let them cool for a while. Went in easy.

 

The X-Ring by itself 'slopped' around fore and aft in its groove as the shift shaft was moved,

|X | and | X|

So I added a regular ring into the X like so:

|X•|

And the possible problem was solved.

The X-Ring no longer moved in its groove when the shift shaft was moved.

12 years, No leaks.

 

How could you possibly see it moving around? On my 328 the diameter of the shift rod is close to the diameter of the hole in the casings so you cannot see anything with the rod in place. Also in my case, it took some effort to stuff the X ring in its recess because the distance across the X was the same or slightly larger than the width of the machined groove.

 

In my 308, I put the seal in by itself first to test fit it. No shift shaft.

It went right in. No issues.

But the slot for it in both cases, was wider than the seal so it easily moved fore and aft. I liked the X-Ring but I didn't like it moving.

So, I added 'Insurance.'



I may very well have been the first one to do it here, add the extra o-ring, but I do know I'm not the ONLY One to use an extra one.

 

That explains the difference.

 

If you havent,

Change-out the two silent blocks in the shift shaft.

Clean out your shift lever. There is likely a dinosaur bone or two in there.


Other than that, just make darn sure the shift fork engages very precisely and the shaft is tight along its entire length.


Oh, IF you are going to add an Oil Sump Baffle, now is the time.

 

I 'Test Drive' EVERYTHING in pieces ... BEFORE I Assemble ANYTHING In-Total.

Time consuming? YES.

But it has saved me some serious headaches over the years.

 

I think a dinosaur bone was the only thing i didn't find in there. Yes, cleaning and lightly lubing the box makes a surprisingly big difference in shift feel. Be sure to mark the orientation of the two halves and put them back the same way as the holes are machined as a pair and flipping them might lead to looseness on one end and tightness on the other.

 

I don't want to steal the thread but I'm in the process of replacing them as well on my 82 308.
Mike on your picture you are showing 3 balls with the springs. When I removed the pan only 2 came out. I guess the third is seating behind the silver cup on the picture?

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Tommy, one of the ball could have gotten stuck in the hole, try to get a magnet small enough to fit hole and see if the ball is in there. Here’s another picture of the pan from a QV. Image Unavailable, Please Login