I also removed the drain plug to see how much, if any metal shavings were present. It looked ok to me but I'm no expert. Image Unavailable, Please Login
In the past I've had my share of Muncie M22 transmissions apart changing synchros, etc...But, at this point, I don't trust myself to go thru and reassemble this. Namely because I don't know a good rock from a bad rock. So I'm looking for a recommendation on someone that is familiar with these assemblies. Does anyone know of a reputable shop/individual that might be able to help me out here? Just don't want to take a chance with this...Appreciate any assistance in this matter.
Hi JM please empty your PM inbox , it´s full so it wont take any more messages, I can not reply to your last message Thank you
After 2 years, we've finally engineered a clutch for the project. I wanted to guarantee we had enough clamping force to handle the increased torque. The clutch we've come up with is matched to a lightweight high performance starter. The starter is 5-6 lbs lighter than the factory one and spins the engine over faster than the stock one. The clutch and flywheel are 25 pounds lighter than stock. The clutch uses dual disks and is roughly 10 inches in diameter. It uses a diaphragm with 3 centrifugal levers that as speed increases supplies additional clamping. By using the levers it allows for less pedal effort to engage/disengage the clutch. Attached is the link that shows the mockup flywheel and starter in action on the first try.
you also have a video from the clutch or some photos? how is this working exactly? in my competition I have also 2 discs, sintermetal ( right word?? ), and a stronger pressure plate, and never had problems
John what type of friction material is used in this clutch? Being a twin disc, I'm guessing a metallic compound, but just curious if you went with something else?
The clutch manufacturer went with organic discs, b/c it should drive smoother and the clutch way exceeds the torque capacity (rated to 1100 ft lbs) of what I'm gonna put thru it.
Thx James, hope you are well....Clutch shipped today hopefully will have next week. Also sent the gear housing to Fernando (helluva nice guy) at Competizione and they are magnafluxing the gears and rebuilding it back to factory specs (ie new roller bearings, etc).
Thank you John; that sounds like it's going to be a great solution rather than the on/off characteristics of metallic lined, multi disc clutches.
So I sent the gear housing assembly out to Competizione to go thru it, we decided to magnaflux the gears and input shaft. The magnaflux showed no cracks , so that was good. Next we cleaned up the gear housing, replaced all the bearings and seals, and reassembled. They did an excellent job. One thing I noticed was the snap ring that is in the lower gear was deformed, as if the input shaft was too long and someone had just bolted it together, we will be paying close attention to how this all goes back together. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's an engine assembly prelube, sometimes with these type of projects you don't know how long it will be before it's ran, so to protect the bearings from rust, it's used. Also when you first fire the engine up, it may take 30 secs before the oil gets to these bearings, so as a precaution that they don't run dry, it's applied. Once the oil does reach it, it quickly dissolves into it.
Mounted the flywheel up with the new pilot bearing. You can see the flywheel is aluminum with the steel insert for the friction to ride on. This one is 12 pounds lighter than the stock one, should help with engine acceleration. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm sure you know what you are doing but the aluminum flywheel will kill the already small amount of torque the engine makes and help send a rod through the block on an overrev. Some don't realize the cons. I have ran both. Torque is what plants you in your seat and burns the tires and hold all the inertia of the spinning engine. With the aluminum flywheel is will lose its rev a lot between gears. You may not like it. I ran a billet steel flywheel with my 750hp TT TR.
Finally got the MSD crank trigger magnets mounted into the aluminum flywheel and a cam sync setup to replace the stock brake vacuum assist pump. Upon closer inspection of the original vacuum pump I found chards of metal in it...Yikes
Thx Jeff...here's a couple pics of the printed cam sync... Looks nice Moss, those look like some huge turbos... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
By "cam sync" do you mean camshaft position sensors? Looks like that shaft with splines will go into the rear end of the exhaust cam?