Removing front cylinder head

Yes it is possible but it is very tight.

 

I would not even try it with engine in. Life is insane enough.

 

There are so many things you need to examine and do once you're going that deep into the engine, that I wouldn't even imagine trying to attempt it with the engine in place.

Move the car to somewhere that it's possible to remove it.

 

You can loosen the all engine mounts, disconnect the clutch cable, disconnect the exhaust at the flanges. Disconnect the torque arm. throttle cable, you have the intake manifold off already so Fuel lines, choke cable (not actually a choke) etc. are off no doubt ? Any other hoses including the coolant line/s . Place a jack under the oil pan section of the block and rotate the engine while it's still sitting on the 2 rear engine mounts. It just takes a few inches of lift to give you the room. Place a pc. of wood between the jack pad and the aluminum pan to distribute the load
Rotate the forward bank of the engine just enough to allow you clearance to pull the forward head. The reality is when you have reached this point. If you removed the header tank, Disconnected the drive axles, Oil lines and electrical, you can pretty much pull the engine !!

 

And you would be insane to not pull the engine at that point.

 

I have used the aforementioned trick to reach the front header to replace, but really it's tough to pull the head as it is....maybe using a plate puller, as others have said, it's really tight clearances..

 

Yes, it’s very doable.

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Pulling the mill from one of these is a very basic and simple task. Why anybody would fight with it in the car is beyond my understanding..

 

Why pull an engine if you don't need to? You are just adding time/unnecessary work to the process. Given that there is sufficient clearance, I wouldn't hesitate to pull the cylinder heads without dropping the engine. SURE, it's easier to pull the cylinder head with the engine out on a stand and if you are rebuilding the engine, of course that's the way to go. But if you are just removing the cylinder heads for valve work, it's adding unnecessary complexity.

 

Why? Because some of us can without any fight which I guess is beyond your understanding. I understand, just because it’s easy for some of us, doesn’t meant it’s easy for you or others.

 

My big concern would be if you have corroded head studs, where are you going to get the leverage to break it free? Pull against the remaining attached motor mounts until it screws them up also? I would be much more inclined to pull the engine and avoid a **** show.. chances of this going smoothly saving a couple hours is pretty low. Chances of this going poorly and damaging the car in some manner, pretty high but everybody has their level of acceptable risk . 2cts

 

Pulling the motor would make a great time to clean and paint the engine compartment. Also clean up the engine its self, replace some seals and gaskets. Make it look like new. That's if your into that. If done right it will increase the valve of your car. I think there's 3 parts to looking at a car. The outside of the car, paint, wheels, lights and glass. Next is the interior condition seats, carpet, dash and center console. Then there's the engine compartment and front bonnet compartment.

 

Just cuz you can, doesn’t mean you should.

 

Well, folks have different ways of looking at things. I agree that if you want to change the valves AND do all this other engine stuff being mentioned plus clean up everything in the engine compartment, etc, sure, pulling the engine is the way to go. Otherwise...

I have to admit that I have never been in the camp of "replacing things while you're in there" that aren't broken. Every time you remove a bolt, nut, screw, fitting, hose, whatever, there is a chance that you will break/damage/lose something that isn't currently broken, damaged or lost. I know, we are all great mechanics and such things are not likely to happen but some days the gremlins are perfectly aligned...There are lots of posts on the internet asking about how to repair buggered oil pan drain bolts/threads. Removing/reinstalling an oil pan bolt isn't high on the difficulty list so it proves those gremlins can show up pretty much anytime...

 

The 308/328 are getting old enough now that chances of a aluminum head corroding itself to a steel head stud is really high. When that happens, the engine being out of the car is going to be required. I am beginning to see the same phenomenon with the 355 heads. You can always get lucky … but I only prefer luck when I play poker.

 

I think the question was "will" the head come off with the engine in the car to which there is either a yes or no answer. If the answer is yes then, despite the challenges, it is up to the person doing it whether or not they wish to try. If the answer is no well then there's no point in even trying. If the head turns out to be stuck due to corrosion you can always go to plan B and pull the whole thing, it's not as if attempting to pull the head in situ sets you on an in-alterable path.

 

If the head nuts are off, PB Blaster down the studs then try some soft nylon cord through the plug holes, turn crank towards TDC and pray. Don’t turn too hard or you can warp or crack the head. A hair dryer or heat gun may help.

My ‘79 engine was out and it still took a few days, hanging from the heads, heat, PBB, levering, swearing...

 

I tend to agree with everyone I have removed the head last year in the car PITA and now it's all apart in my garage... way to many thing that need attention. Make the right choice and pull the engine out. You will not regret it.

 

If the studs are "corroded in place," stud removers will remove them - I've had a set of Snap-On SAE and metric stud removers for many years and have never run across a stud they couldn't pull. Used them on engines with AL heads that acted as if they were welded to the block due to rust corrosion between head/studs. The stud pullers pulled them with no trouble. Shoot some penetrant around the studs for psychological comfort (doesn't matter which penetrant - they are all incredibly overrated as far as actual ability to penetrate/loosen anything), Wait a bit, overnight if it makes you feel better, attach the stud pullers and yank em out!

AGAIN, I agree that if you are intending to do the "replace everything 'cause it's there" and do a thorough compartment clean up. pulling the engine's the way to go. But I wouldn't do it just to replace valves...

 

I think you can do it while its in the car. its kind of tight but actually you will have more leverage separating the head from the block. .... only reason to take the engine out is if you are going to do the bottom end, or just want to detail the engine... with all the usual oil leaks its a good time to refresh seals, and have a good cleaning but its not needed to get the head out. getting the head back on is a bit more difficult with how you have to move the head on the bottom studs. ... you most likely you are going to scrape the bulkhead.

 

I don't think you will regret removing the engine for this job. Your back will thank you. Also, it will allow you to easily perform some other maintenance items while you have it out (shaft seals).