No over-engineering please Basically the Quad-rings (or X-rings) were intended for sealing rotating shafts or for static sealing purposes. At least Trelleborg, one of he first manufacturers says so. No mentioning of sealing longitudinally movements. I used the stock O-rings back then in 2002. All still tight and dry. Best from Germany Martin
Oh God!! I started by installing the original seals. After reading all the posts switched to the X seal. Now this Thank God I still have it out of the vehicle! Maybe use one of each and see how it goes I guess! LOL!!
A little confused now, do these x seals require an additional O ring or do they fit on their own and provide the seal? Thanks
The x seals are definitely tighter and have two sealing lips but given how little most of these cars are driven I think it makes little difference. The x-seals seal on the shaft and on the OD of the holes in the case. They do move axially and putting an o-ring (gear oil tolerant) next to the x-ring would stop it sliding within the hole which may help and won't harm the seal. Many fchatters have successfully used the x-rings for many years without the additional side support so the evidence is they do work-- as do the originals
Yep. I just didn't feel comfy so I put-in an o-ring to stop the movement. It has little to no sealing properties in this application. I don't recall the diameter of the o-ring or circumference. I just measured the 'indent'of the X, X< | X< to the same point across the diameter and tried several until I got one to work. Sorry.
I dug deeper into the subject again and as opposed to my post above, it's indeed possible to use the Quad-rings for reciprocating applications. But for this purpose it is necessary to use backup rings to avoid extrusion into the gap. But we don't have the necessary space for backup rings on our application. Sorry Mark. But your procedure would make me fear, that the ring would be forced to extrude into the gap even more. For further informations here's the link to a Trelleborg-pdf: https://www.tss.trelleborg.com/-/media/tss-media-repository/tss_website/pdf-and-other-literature/catalogs/quadring_gb_en.pdf?revision=57d250be-164f-48eb-abef-29e4eb6d357e Best from Germany Martin
Martin, given the tiny clearance, the relatively short axial shaft movement, and the permanent bath of oil, it would be almost impossible for the lips to get pulled into that gap. People have been fitting them for at least 13 years and no reported failures that I could find when I made this decision. There are quite a few people who have had the original o-rings fail but those are probably all after 30+ years of wear.
Experience needed!! I bought new gearbox/engine sump joints from Maranello Classic Parts, and these are supposedly Ferrari approved. Question is do they need installing dry or with sealant? The ones that came off were not leaking, same thickness as the new ones but black in colour with no brand markings. I recently changed the sump joint on another make of car and the instructions specifically said do not use additional sealant. What are peoples experience of installing these gaskets without sealant? The guys at Maranello were non committal! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Apart from the shaft seal leak I noticed a leak from the dipstick tube union (the part that screws to the sump with a copper sealing washer). A close look confirmed that it was finger tight. So I've annealed the washer and tightened it back in. But what about the dipstick tube sealing? The oil level will be above this union when all the oil has drained back into the sump and metal to metal seals between union nut, dip tube and dipstick tube nut seems a bit odd. Do folk find this joint is oil tight without applying some sort of sealant? I don't really want to add sealant unless necessary, as getting the tube out a later date may prove to be a PITA.
Dip tube and dipstick tube nut have never leaked and I've had mine off several times. Hold the lower nut, the one with the CU crush washer, and tighten the tube nut against it.