Color correction process

I think you mean paint correction (color correction is for TVs)

Paint correction means removing or improving imperfections in the paint which can involve steps as agressive as color sanding, but generally it means:

clean and decontaminate (wash, clay bar)
cut and buff (machine polish with a compound and cutting pad)
polish (machine polish with a less agressive polishing compound and a polishing pad)
seal and protect (wax, spray sealant, ceramic coat)

 

I’m not a pro, but my first life was in auto body30 years ago. Much has changed, but some basics have stayed the same.

Actually to remove orange peel in my opinion the most important part of paint correction, the car should be wet sanded before compounding.

Personally I never bought into the clay bar thing. From what I have read (and yes I have used it) it is supposed to be for removing tiny specs of dust that are embedded in the finish. Not sure why you would clay bar before compounding especially with wet sanding prior. That would be akin to cleaning a wall before knocking it down.

The only rationale would be to remove small debris of which are courser than the ultra fine sandpaper or polishing compound that may cause imperfections.


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Idk I’m not a pro. I used ultra fine paper on mine. Be careful not to take to much of the clear coat off or you will flaw the finish. I think I used 2400 paper and a fine compound with my high speed polisher.

Perhaps the pros can elaborate more.


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You might post your question in the detailing and showroom sub forum. There are some pros over there (mobile jay) that might give you some suggestions


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@RedlineG60 can help on this (if he's still coming around)

Most of the time you don't have to sand. getting heavy orange peel out should be one of the only times. It's all about what you want your finsihed product to look like. Do you want a concours perfect finish? Something acceptable for a daily?

IMO (if the car is really dirty), Wash and clay, then wash again. A clay bar helps pull up contaminant that would dislodge into the polish pad and scratch things further. They work, even the rubber style foam block ones.

For my daily, I used Menzerna 3 in 1 with a polymer sealer. works great. I maintenance wash, and use the sealer after that. CLEAN PADS ARE CRITICAL.

For my 348 (single stage paint), I used heavy cut I had some deep spider webbing, then followed with 3500 polish, then polymer sealer. I only used foam pads. They're much more gentle than wool or microfiber, plus the single stage paint terrifies me. CLEAN PADS ARE CRITICAL.

sjd

 

I'll add a little more:

Here's a little before and after on the 348. With only 22k miles now the paint was a little beat up.

This was Menzerna 400 heavy cut with a Porter cable polisher and Chemical Guys orange pads. Probably 3 or 4 of them, cleaning after finishing a panel.

I followed up with 3500 and a black pad, and then the Jescar Polymer sealer on a different black pad. these are all 5 and 6 inch pads on the Porter Cable.

If you're going to take this on yourself, READ READ READ, and talk to guys to do this regularly. WATCH youtube vids on how to use the polisher and how to select the pad and how much pressure to use.

For touch up work and difficult to reach places, I have a 3" pneumatic and the same assortment of pads.

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I get lots of compliments on it at cars and coffee.

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