It will not shut down the bank. As Ernie said, it will just store a silent code. No lights.
My understanding is that the TCU is a mini "computer" (because it has a chip set inside) that takes the temperature from the probe and then issues 3 code reports to the ECU: (1) everything is fine (2) things are getting hot in the cat so flash the warning light and (3) things are excessively hot so shut the bank down. Disconnected it reports nothing but you probably get a "fault" light because the ECU does not sense the TCU. The 355 TCU is the next level of complexity and the parts are not interchangeable.
Not really a "computer". It receives the voltage signal from the Thermocouple and amplifies it 100 times. On ignition switch on, the TCU sends a brief +12V pulse (1-2 sec) to the ECU telling it the TCU is functional. On my UK spec non-cat 348, the absence of the said pulse (bad or unplugged TCU) just triggers a silent code, no warning lights and no effect on the engine running. When the engine is running, the TCU deals with the 100 times amplified voltage as follows: at about 3.75 V (37.5 mV on the Thermocouple, about 900C EGT), the TCU starts flashing the SDL directly, not via the ECU; at about 3.9 V (39 mV on the Thermocouple, about 950C EGT) the TCU switches the SDL permanently "on" and sends a permanent +12V to the ECU which causes the ECU to shut down the bank.
I'm working on a solution, the control electronics are straightforward. Hardest part is finding the 348 6 pin connector which has gone out of production.
I proactively cleaned and caked the outside face with rtv incase it cracks to prevent moisture intrusion. Consider doing that for the good one you have. Sent using FerrariChat.com mobile app
+ 1 on Eric. I think i got my new eproms from him back in '16ish. But what's the Stooge tune? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Tim spent a lot of time tuning the mapping to extract more power from the f119 via the antiquated dual Motronics, and raised the rev limiter. I still haven’t found where he set the rev limiter, or if there even is one. 8000rpm = nope 8100rpm = nope 8200rpm = nope 8400rpm = nope 8500rpm = nope 8600rpm = nope 8700rpm ?!! = nope!!! That is as far as I’m willing to go because I don’t trust the stock rods, stock rod bolts, nor the stock valve springs. I dont want to risk floating a valve, or launching a rod through the side of the block. However, I know on good authority the f119 crank is good for 10,000+rpm, it’s the rest of the internal bits that aren’t. Plus the stock cams do not have the profiles to take advantage of the higher rpms, and the entire intake system is extremely restrictive. I haven’t done any back to back dyno pulls to see what the power difference is between the factory Spider tune vs the Stooge tune. Though I have been told that Tim’s tune is pretty daggon good. And man let me tell you it howls once the revs get above 8000+rpm! Anyway, that’s the Stooge tune. If you want the details Tim will have to divulge those.
