Nice Job.. i just did mine last week and doing another one that i bought from Ebay....
This is nice...I vote sticky too! Beautiful dog...already oil-colored and ready for the FCar workout.
Hey Guys,, I'm in the process of doing my belts and noticed a droplet of water on the pump. I took it apart to confirm my suspicions. Everything looks ok still, but the spindle sleeve that the seal sits on is too gone. I'm struggling to find what the pump part number is, and what spindle I need to buy. Based on the bearing size, do I have the large bearing pump 121253? And is the spindle pn 121253? Looks like a spindle will cost me $200, plus the bearings and the seal. Is it still worth rebuilding, or do I have better options?
If the housing is not badly corroded these pumps are always worth rebuilding. And after the rebuild much better than ANY of the junk, which is currently available from the official parts dealers. Every mechanic with a lathe is able to restore the seal seat. I do it each time I rebuild these waterpumps. With the needed skills and care such a restored shaft is better than most of the new ones available. I have seen some with almost half a mm radial runout tolerance between bearings and seal seat, what means they are plain junk. The older pumps with the two-piece seal I convert to the latest version with the one-piece seal. If costs are not an issue, one option I would recommend is this: https://www.nicksforzaferrari.net/nff-performance-water-pumps.html Best from Germany Martin
My last rebuild was done by Flying Dutchman slightly over 2 years ago. No leaks. I keep drive belts only tight enough so there is no squealing when cold engine is first started. The belts will tighten due to engine block expanding when it warms. No sense putting excessive loads on bearings.
Thanks for the info. Any idea what diameter I can go down to without affecting the seal effectiveness?
Sorry for not being clear enough. You have to restore the seal seat to its original diameter. Brief procedure as follows: Cut away approx. 2mm (diameter). Make a sleeve with a press fit inner diameter for the turned down shaft and an outer diameter some half a mm larger than the the finished dimension. Press the sleeve onto the shaft. I make the sleeve from stainless steel. For peace of mind I add a slight smear of Loctite 648. Take it onto the lathe again and adjust radial runout tolerance of the bearing seat (where you clamp the shaft) to the best possible result. You should achieve 0.02mm. Less is better. Turn down the seal seat to its original dimension. Here's a related thread I created 8 years ago. It covers the conversion and lacks the step with restoring an old shaft, but the principle is the same. The advantage of converting an old shaft to the new style is, that you have to turn down the seal seat anyway, no matter how it's still looking. (19mm old/16m new). https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/308-w-pump-altering-design-old-to-new.328021/ For a certain period I offered it as a service for the European FChatters and shared the market with a buddy from the Seattle area, who served the US-market. I made a few, but unfortunately my labour seemed to be too expensive and folks preferred to purchase the common Chinese or Indian junk. Best from Germany Martin
Martin, would it worth having some 151253 shafts made along with a sleeve to adapt the housing to the one-piece seal? It should be cheaper than the aftermarket pumps and cheaper than the time/labour to modify the original parts. Can't be more than $20 for both parts.
I cannot remember, whether cutting work on the housing was mandatory for the original Ferrari one piece seal 152051. For my more modern one piece seal cutting was necessary to maintain precise working height according to the manufacturers directions. How many shafts would I have to order to get them for less than $20.00/each in decent precision? Best from Germany Martin
I could probably get 20 in stainless for that. Quality is usually good for small numbers as they are hoping for more business and I always say there is no rush so they fit them in when they have a gap in production. If they are not within spec you just get them to remake them.
If anyone is ordering shafts, let me know. I ended up a getting a crappy aftermarket one for now to get the car on the road
