Dynamat- yes/no - component vs coaxial speakers??

I did second skin it was easier to apply and it worked for me

I did on my IS-F when I added 2 JL 12" subs

 

I've done a lot of reading on dynamat. The impression I've come away with is that it does well for sound dampening, but not so much for heat insulation.

 

Correct, you need a completely different material for heat insulation

I believe it's called closed cell foam? I might be wrong, it's been a few years

 

Are you doing to do the install yourself or have a shop do it?

It is NO fun to cut the material and the smell and the heat and all of it sucks

Have a shop do it and help them out by using second skin it's easier on the hands / gloves when it comes to cutting

Try to buy from amazon.com so if you have any issues amazon will just refund/reship

 

For technical information and "how to" read this site thoroughly. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

This guy has well regarded products. https://www.secondskinaudio.com/

Dynamat is good but expensive.

Butyl based is what you want for sound deadening. Blocking and absorption utilize different materials.

 

I have dynamat in my car - on the floor & some in the doors & it definitely removes some resonant frequencies & vibration noise. I'd probably do that again.

Some years ago I also spent some money on audio (including, replacement door speakers, tweeters, constructing rear speakers & installing a sub in the footwell driven by an amp up front.)

I wouldn't do any of that again because you have to play music so loud to overcome the noise of the car. For me the whole lot turned out to be a waste of time.

 

That's very interesting, Iain. I have my evaporator out right now (see separate thread), and there's a lot of room for a sub under the foot plate. I have also cut out the leather over the speakers (from behind, and easily glued back in) and put normal speaker grilles over to get clearer sound - didn't seem to make much difference. I was thinking of putting the old perforated leather covers back in and running tweeters over the emergency window crank holes, so your opinion gives me pause. The thing is just too noisy

 

Every time I consider spending the time and money to make the stereo acceptable, I wonder if the result is sort of pointless in the end... as you say, it's a very noisy car. Good to read this; thanks for sharing your experience there.

 

That's been my experience of it. I listen to music a lot on the daily - almost never in the Ferrari. When I get some time I am planning to take some of it out (specifically the sub & amp).

 

I didn't buy a Ferrari to listen to music

 

I installed Dynamat Extremen on the floorpan, central tunnel and doors of my '83 GTS. Dynamat substantially reduced the higher frequency sounds coming from the car; that is the noises that sound like gravel being thrown up by the wheels. Also the doors now close with a solid sounding whump. Both are improvements and I therefore like Dynamat. It is not a heat insulation whatsoever.

At the same time, I stripped out wiring from what must have been 3 prior stereo installations, removed a subwoofer from the passenger footwell, removed power and subwoofer amps from the trunk, and installed new component speakers in the stock location with tweeters in the door crank holes. Modern high-displacement door speakers (I used Infinity brand) output just as much bass as did the old subwoofer. The systems sounds fine, but car noise and simple speaker configuration mean that it ain't no Bentley sound-wise. Its a personal judgement. It turns out I basically just use my system for Google maps (my head unit does Bluetooth) and seldom play music in the car.

 

These work well. No need for sound deadening...
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Totally agree. I did the same on my 78 308 GTS. It definitely quieted things down in the interior.

Heat Insulation (primarily to keep heat out of the cabin and help the AC)

Basically, heat gets into the cabin from three areas, the front windshield, the two coolant pipes running under the console and from the radiator and heater box heat from the front compartment entering the front panel.

1. If you want to insulate for heat, you actually have to use a different material and it will be thicker. When I had my interior and rugs out and after I installed the Dynamite, I used Reflectix (sp), the bubble wrap with foil on both sides. I installed it along the center console tunnel. This helped insulate the heat from the two central cooling pipes that run the length of the interior. I also lined the inside of the console with the Reflectix. This was really effective in keeping the coolant heat out.

2. The other area that heat enters is through the front wall where the pedals are. There are several holes. Pay attention to these when you Dynamat the front.

3. The front of the car where the spare tire stows also lets a lot of heat into the cabin. On either side there are two heater boxes that contain coolant and are fed by a large rubber heater hose. This hose can be insulated to keep the heat in. There should be some foam rubber around the hose where it goes through an opening as it passes from the fender area to the spare tire area to the heater box. If this is open it allows heat from the heater box to come into that area and warm the front panel. Also, there are several heater hoses underneath the spare tire housing. These can be insulated to keep the heat in also. Don't forget to close the temperature lever when the heat is not used.

4. Underneath the front of the car there is an access panel. I modified mine with louvers to let the heat out. There are several threads on this.

 

2. Front panel holes

On the driver's side you have the brake pedal connector going to the master cylinder, the clutch pedal cable and the steering column. If your car is apart, you can remove the the spare tire panel which exposes the heater hoses, brake booster and some other parts. Get a flashlight or another light source and put it in there, then go inside the car and look at the pedal and passenger footwell area to see the light.

4. Access Panel

Excess heat from the radiator is exhausted through the louvers behind the headlights and in later models a set of louvers in the front of the front lid. Underneath the car is an access panel, which is solid metal with a hole for the AC drain. By adding some louvers, the heat can also be exhausted underneath the car. The louvers should point toward the back. I had a hot rod shop fabricate the panel for me. Below is an example of this panel.

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Do you have the vent openings pointing towards the front or the back of the car? (In other words, do the vents have fresh air pushing into them, or exhausting the hot air towards the back)

 

Toward the back to exhaust hot air.

 

Component systems pretty much always sound better. It is what I have in mine.

 

All you need ia a 100W per channel amp to hear it. They hook up just like a ****ty one. No more effort needed to do it right.

I have a Tubi and I can hear the stereo in mine just fine at 80 mph on the highway with the top off. Not a problem and it makes those 200 mile trips back and forth to Road Atlanta a bit more enjoyable.