DIY Maintenance 458 thread. | Page 4 | FerrariChat

DIY Maintenance 458 thread.

Discussion in '458 Italia/488/F8' started by Melvok, Feb 25, 2019.

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  1. up4speed

    up4speed F1 Rookie
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    Yes, I didn't know which one to press. Apparently the regular F148 didn't work, but the F148 (petrol) did.
     
  2. up4speed

    up4speed F1 Rookie
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    I did the oil change today. The actual oil change wasn't bad at all, but taking the underbelly pan off was a pain, and even more of a pain to line it up and put it back on. As others have mentioned, the ducts are what made it even more difficult.
    The hint that I can give anyone doing this for the first time is:

    1- Definitely have a friend help you
    2- Unscrew the ducts first, then drop the belly pan
    3- when re-installing, stick the ducts in, then put the pan close, and screw the ducts in loosely. Then lift the pan into place and tack it up with a few belly pan screws near the duct. Then do the same with the other side. After that, keep adding screws by hand until all the screws (all 90 of them, lol) are in. Finish up by tightening everything.
    4- re-check all the screws after you tighten them
    5- Did I mention, get a friend?

    Just a little extra info: My car took exactly 10.5 Qt. after letting all 3 drains drip for over an hour.


    (By the way, I looked further into the "rumor" that the tool will only do 8 oil service resets before a dealer needs to do a reset through FNA, that reset will clear the 8 spots again. Unfortunately, someone asked the service manager at my local dealer, and confirmed it to be true! I also heard that it cost approx. $500 to have this done. Definitely not cool!)
     
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  3. tr328

    tr328 Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
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    #78 tr328, Nov 6, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2019
  4. up4speed

    up4speed F1 Rookie
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    Oh geez. Yes. Thanks!
    I’m getting old!!!
     
  5. tr328

    tr328 Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
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    Up4speed,

    Thanks for the tips on the oil change, I'll be doing one soon.
     
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  6. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Very good thread on DIY 458 oilchange and green wrench reset !

     
  7. gobble

    gobble Formula 3
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    I had also posted that video in the oil change thread. It does confirm towards the end of the video that the Launch tool resets the light. My Launch tool also worked on my 458 and even reset the light on my wife's Boxster which I had been trying to do for years.

    I've watched a few of his videos and this guy is a real hack though. I wouldn't recommend following everything he does, like not bothering to go buy the correct socket for the oil filter cap or removing the diffuser (which isn't even necessary) and just letting it drop on the ground. There's another video were he almost destroys a 458 brake caliper by not knowing the correct way to use a bolt extractor.

    I also found that Ricambi sells all the oil change parts as a kit - https://www.ricambiamerica.com/collections/oil-change-kits/458ock-458-italia-oil-change-kit.html
     
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  8. DoubleD33

    DoubleD33 F1 Rookie
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    I did not get pictures but I did DIY the DCT fluid and the gear oil.

    I used Motul DCT fluid and Motul Gear 300 LS 75w 90. I went with the LS for the additive.

    The drain plug for the DCTF fluid is in the middle on the passenger side on the bottom. The plug in front and in back on the bottom on the passenger side is for the gear oil.

    I measured what came out and it was around 6 liters. The factory manual says right at 8 liters. I did let it drain for a while and got a quart or more after the first hour had passed. The moral of the story is let it drain for a few hours.

    filling it was interesting as you need gravity or pressure on your side. I did not want to spend the money on a pressure filler that would sit in the garage for ever after being used once so i went another route. The Motul bottles have a built in spout on them that a piece of 3/8 vinyl tubing will fit over as long at it is somewhat warm. So I went to the hardware store and purchased 6’ of tubing. The transmission plug is a 16mm by 1.5 which a barbed fitting that size is not readily available in the US. I purchased a Teflon or plastic 3/8 male iron pipe by 3/8 barbed fitting to attach the vinyl hose to. I went plastic as to not damage the threads on the transmission since it was the incorrect thread. I used a lot of Teflon tape on the fitting and screwed it in the transmission by hand. The 3/8 is slightly smaller that the 16mm and it fits pretty well with the Teflon tape.

    I connected the vinyl tube to the barbed fitting and to the nozzle on the Motul bottle. I held the Motul bottle up high and the fluid flowed into the transmission as I had gravity working for me. I did poke a small vent hole in the bottom of the bottle While it was upside down.

    after about 4 liters it reached refusal. I cranked the car and put it in reverse and first gear for about 30 seconds. I left a bottle attached to the hose to catch any overflow. After running for 30 seconds or so I **** off and it easily took almost 2 more liters. Which was the amount that came out. I watched the temperatures on the car via the VDA cluster and checked the fluid for the last little bit of the liter. I found if you leave the hose connected to a bottle you can see the fluid flow through the clear vinyl and not make a mess and see when it is full. You can also easily squeeze more into it if needed to adjust the level.

    the gear oil drains through two plugs. The one in the front and the one in the back on the passenger side. It fills through a plug on the rear that is a few inches up from the bottom of the transmission.

    I had about 3.5 liters drain out of this one and again let it drain for a while.

    filling was done by the Motul bottle nozzle. I wadded you the plastic bottle to get the fluid in and it worked pretty well. It held about 2 liters before having to be cranked for the 30 seconds or so and run through reverse and forward. The other 1.5 liters went in pretty easily.

    I did not replace any of the O rings on the drain plug which are more a square section gasket than a circle. They were supple and seemed to seal quite well. I tried to torque the plugs but they did not really like that as they were not smooth when they bottomed out. I used a ratchet and experience to tighten them. I suspect I am a little over what they recommend for torque but not by much.

    I reviewed the fluid that came out for big metal pieces and none were found. Just some small particles of metal floating around in the bottom of the pan.

    I can say that I do notice a little change in the shifts as they seem to be smoother with the Motul.
     
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  9. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Thanx for great write-up !

    Looks easy …. at which kms/mls did you do this ?
     
  10. DoubleD33

    DoubleD33 F1 Rookie
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    I have right at 40k miles. I am not a believer in lifetime fluids.

    I also changed the coolant and will do a write up on that shortly. It was really easy. I should caveat that with the fact I have a quick jack.

    I still have the power steering fluid to change. I am contemplating on how to do that one.
     
  11. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    can the fluids not be sucked out like many new vehicles ?
     
  12. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Coming time I will post / ask many things about the coming maintenance of my '12 458 Italia in March.

    Reason: I will not visit the off F dealer who charge me € 1100 for the next service, it is the first one out of the 7 years free services.

    Only drove 3000 kms and I find it absolutely not rational to renew the 10 ltrs of oil.

    Nowadays imo, you can easily do 40.000 kms withe the modern oils without any problems.

    Also my airfilter is hardly used, I will vacuumclean the box and filter.

    Only thing that worries me at the moment are the sparkplugs, I cannot recall that the F dealer ever exchanged them.

    Can anybody chime in here ?

    And which ones are oem ? and which one (f.i. IGK Iridium) can be used as well ?

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  13. R8 BKK

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    These should work for you:-

    Ferrari Part Number: 297423
    NGK Platinum MR8AP8HJS stock #93340
     
  14. up4speed

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    Has anyone replaced the sending unit on their 458? In the shop manual it says to remove manifold. However, with a little struggle, it seems that I would be able to reach down to remove it without all that extra work.
    Here are 2 videos. One is the car idling, and the other is at a steady speed. Notice how the needle seems erratic.
    Can others check their cars and tell me if it's normal or not? If not, I have to look into replacing the sending unit.



     
  15. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Cannot help you with this Chris.

    Please let us know how you fixed it …

    And what do we have to watch to inspect our ouwn 458 ?
     
  16. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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  17. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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  18. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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  19. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    I made an EXCEL-Scheme of all maintenance files and show here the EXTRA service or parts at specific times/kms.

    So tak for your maintenance simply the Yearly and look in this sheet if anything extra should be done.

    Watch the last line: utterly strange to me that nowhere is mentionned: exchange of oilfilter, inspection or renewal of coolant, state of battery, headlights or DCT.

    Hope you have some use of it.
     

    Attached Files:

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  20. up4speed

    up4speed F1 Rookie
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    Thanks! I can print it and leave it in my garage.
     
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  21. up4speed

    up4speed F1 Rookie
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    #96 up4speed, Feb 4, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
    Update: I bought a top side creeper to help me reach the sensor easily without damaging car. I removed the electrical connector, and cleaned the terminals with contact cleaner. The gauge still bounces around during warm up (I'm pretty sure this is normal, have seen other cars do it), however, when warmed up, the gauge is rock steady! Before I cleaned the connector, it continued to bounce around even when car was warm. At this point I'm assuming that this is normal operation. If I find out differently, I'll replace the sensor, it's only about $150 (but tricky to access with wrenches).
    I normaly wouldn't worry too much because the gauge doesn't control anything, it's just for the driver to see the oil pressure. My concern is that if it fails and the pressure shows low, it will set off alarms to stop diving immediately. Then it's up to me to decide if I want to assume it's the sensor and continue on my way. However, if I'm wrong and it's a real problem, I can cause massive damage. Therefore, I think it's better to always have it working normally. Keep an eye on your gauges and if they seem erratic, I would look into it. They will vary with engine load, and engine temps, but if it's erratic, it will look like it spazzes out for no reason, like my videos in the above post (seems to be normal when cold though)
    Here is a photo of the topsider creeper that I bought. The only problem is that you will need a lift to use it because the car is too low for the legs to fit under it :(
     

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  22. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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  23. up4speed

    up4speed F1 Rookie
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    Yes, it's part A. The strange part is that the service manual says to remove the intake manifold to reach it. However, I can clearly see and touch the part (I was easily able to remove connector to clean, the topside creeper made it 10x easier and safer). The only issue that I can see so far, is that there is not a straight shot at the sensor to use a straight extension. I would have to use some assortments of extensions and u-joints, or maybe even a wobble extension. I'm assuming it would be possible, but it worries me that the shop manual says to remove the manifold (a ton of extra work), so I can't help to think if I'm missing something?
     
  24. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Hi Friends,

    NO green spanner here (yet) …. ! 2012 Italia at 52.000 kms. That is good news so far for me ….

    Sparkplugs: when do / did you exchange yours ? At how many kms / miles ?

    How did you do it ? Did you need a special sparkplugtool ?

    Which sparkplugs ? What did you pay ?

    What does exchange of plugs at a dealership cost ?

    Here a photo of the NGK MR8AP 8HJS under Ferrari number 000254771 ...

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  25. gobble

    gobble Formula 3
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    I changed all of my plugs at just under 3,000 miles. My dealership had misdiagnosed a misfire as a bad fuel injector. AFTER sending off both injector rails for cleaning and finding that didn't solve the issue, I did what any basic high school shop student would do and swapped the plugs between the misfiring cylinder and a good cylinder (which stupidly I assumed the dealer had already tried). Guess what, the misfire moved to a the good cylinder. The car had 3 year old gas which likely was the cause.

    Just to be safe I replaced all 8 plugs and 500 miles later no issues. The plugs were only like $25 each from Continental Ferrari (not the dealer referenced above). The back 4 were easy but the front more difficult, even with the intake off the car. I would guess the front would be a ***** with the intake still installed but I haven't tried. I borrowed a really nice digital Snap-On torque wrench from a master tech friend which really helped because it adjusted every which way and still set the proper torque. No other special tools.
     
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