360 Spider Fuse Locations

Most of those are under the front bonnet, left side of the car (right side if you are facing the bonnet). All other fuses are behind the seats, right and left panels.

As far as a guide, there should be stickers on the cover panels indicating all fuses and relay identifications. If you don't have stickers, you can find your relevant service manual here. Download it and have fun!

All Ferraris

Good luck!

Deiger

 

I know exactly where that fuse is just replaced it. Behind the passenger seat. 15 amp fuse. Message me if you need anymore help with that.

 

Oh and also its the same fuse for gas cap, rear glove, and turn signal. I chased this down via wiring diagram because nothing mentions which fuse operates those.

 

I saw the thread on fuses to open the gas tank and convertible top and back glove box. I went thru the fuses in the manual and can't figure out which number fixes these. Just changed the battery and figured may have burned some of these fuses. Thanks a bunch.
Frankie

 

Fuses for signals are in the front trunk behind driver side panel. Not sure about gas tank and glove box.

 

CAN ANYBODY TELL ME OR KNOW'S ABOUT THE FUSE BOX DIAGRAM. I'M LOOKING FOR A/C COMPRESSOR/BLOWER FAN, AND WIPERS FUSES LOCATION NUMBERS AND AMPS. (MY DIAGRAM GOT BURNED), THANKS FOR THE HELP. fuse box diagram, need to

 

Ok, but stop yelling!

Here's from my personal files:

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Does anybody know if the Modena’s master switch interrupt positive or ground when it is active.

 

Hey hessank you wouldn't happen to know what fuses protect the coolant fans would you?

 

According to the WSM fuse list, the fuses should be in the forward luggage compartment at positions 5 & 6, but the WSM only shows one fuse in the graphic.

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If you can't figure out which of those two fuses control which fans, I believe the RH fan fuse has red (with green stripe) wires and the LH fan has red wires. There are just so many mistakes in the wiring diagrams, it's hard to figure out what goes where.

 

Thanks. Fuses are in tact. We can't get 12 volts at the big relay on the RHS radiator. My electronics guy and I checked and back checked all cables and it appears as there is a faulty fuse as there is less than 3 volts there.
There is 12 volts at the temp sensor on the radiator.
There is no fault code either so bit hard to diagnose.
So currently I have no thermo fans.

 

If I'm reading the diagrams correctly, the fuse feeds the temperature sensor. Sounds like a fault after splice "S168A" (which is after the fuse).

Basically this is the feed:

Master fuse near the battery >>> 20 pin connector in the cabin close to the firewall >>> firewall grommet >>> splice to both LH & RH fan fuses and "bonnet opening actuator" fuse >>> RH fan fuse >>> splice "S168A" >>> RH fan relay.

The splice feeds the temperature sensor and the RH Fan Relay (pin 3). Either the splice is faulty or the wiring from the splice to the relay socket is faulty. The splice is probably buried in a harness somewhere.

It doesn't seem like a short as the sensor has 12 volts.

 

More specifically, between the fuse and the relay, so it must be under/near the relays and fuses.

 

I agree.
Should be easy to diagnose

 

The OUTPUT from each of the 30A/40A fuses feeds the #30 PIN of the respective relay. So if you have power on both sides of the fuses and no power to the #30 relay receptacles then you have a break in that short piece of wire (which I highly doubt unless maintenance was done in that area).
Unplug the 30/40A fuses and see if you actually have power there on one of the two terminals. Swap fuses or check fuses for continuity incase there is a breakage internally.

I believe (I would have to dig into my notes to confirm) that the Ground (-12V) signal from the Thermo Switch goes to the #85 PIN of the relay.
#86 PIN is powered by the IGNITION ON and #87 PIN is the +12V that is sent to the respective FAN to make it run

Hope this helps


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Thanks guys.
So I have tested everything that you quoted how it works and all relays and fuses appear to be acting correctly. So it is looking more like there is an issue with wiring after the temp sensor on the fan or the sensor may be shot?

 

So you're no longer getting 3 volts at the relay? Or were you checking the wrong terminal? Or were you shaking the wiring so much, you "fixed" the problem and didn't realise it yet?

Sorry, typo. I meant to write "pin 30". See Fred's post.

 

I read a while back of an owner (here on FChat) who basterdized the switch to make the fans run whenever the Ignition was on.
He didn't get it that is is also bad for a Ferrari to run too cold (Fans on all the time) say in the cooler/colder months.
I believe I read somewhere that they liked >140 degrees.
Check and see if that connection might have come loose.

 

I believe coolant temperature >140F is the trigger point for the ECUs to see "engine warm" and thus put the car into closed-loop mode.

 

No it is still 3 volts and won't turn on. I seem to have all the correct voltages everywhere else though.
Relays all check out except that big one on the fan where you definitely need the 12 volts.
So maybe the wire is damaged from the frunk relays down to the big relay on the fan.

 

The relay gets the voltage from the fuse. The fuse gets its power from the battery via a bigger fuse near the battery. The wiring to the fan is irrelevant and so are the controlling circuits in relation to the power on pin 30.

Your fuses are ok because you said you have 12 volts at the sensor.

What are you putting your multimeter black probe on? The car's chassis or somewhere else?

(EDIT: if I have time today, I'll try and draw a circuit for you. Sometimes the circuits are a little tricky to follow because the manual shows the underside of the components, so you have to mentally reverse the image)