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360 Always something....sudden, excessive battery drain

Discussion in '360/430' started by RedNeck, Nov 22, 2019.

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  1. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    #1 RedNeck, Nov 22, 2019
    Ok, so here's the deal. 1st of, I have a 1 year old Odyssey PC1500 AGM battery, and a Ctek tender with snowflake, and it's on the tender every night...just to answer those questions. I have the Ctek indicator with the 3 lights on it (green, orange, red) that indicates the charge of the battery. I've never had a problem if I leave it off the charger for a day or 2, it stayed green, usually by the third day it was orange. Pretty normal.

    So I had to go away on business for a week, so I shut the power off in the frunk while I was gone. Came home, turned it on, charged normally, no issues. This past weekend, I took it out, DID NOT GO THROUGH THE "PROPER" reset procedure, but basically just washed it and went down the street to fill up the tank and throw some stabilizer in it, then pull it back in the garage. My orange ASR/ABS light did come on, but it will do that occasionally and go off on it's own, usually after restarting.

    Since then, I've noticed that if I take it off the charger in the morning, by evening, it's already on the orange light. Never been like that before. Last night, I measured it at 12.77VDC....this morning, fully charged, it measured 13.28VDC. So, over the course of a few hours, I am losing half a volt. This is not normal, something is draining the battery. I have not measured standby current draw yet.

    My question is, and it's probably a long shot....could this be related to either the fact that my ASR light popped on, or the fact that I didn't do the reset, and will probably be corrected with the next drive?...or did something else just decide to take a crap for no reason? Rather alarming (no pun intended).
     
  2. EastMemphis

    EastMemphis Formula 3
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    #2 EastMemphis, Nov 22, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2019
    Apollo 11 and 360trev like this.
  3. 360trev

    360trev F1 Rookie
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    #3 360trev, Nov 22, 2019
    The ASR light comes on because there is a ecu check done to see minimum voltage for reliable CAN bus operations. You must be dropping below that threshold which triggers the fault. Engine ecus talk to can and dash via CAN.

    Check the battery voltage drop first with it disconnected entirely from the vehicle. It may have developed an internal fault in its capacity.

    If it doesn't drop it is indeed a problem. A lot of 360s in Europe also had satellite trackers fitted. Check first to see if there are any old ones fitted. They could be draining battery. Remove them first. Common location is behind the accelerator pedal panel. Check voltage drop again.

    If it's still a problem its the majority of the time a failing immobilizer.. Pm me and we can sort it out.
     
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  4. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    #4 RedNeck, Nov 22, 2019
    No trackers, it's a US and I've had the car for 3+ years and this i s anew problem. Whether the immobilizer is failing or not, I plan to get rid of it using your services.
     
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  5. andy308

    andy308 Formula 3

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    #5 andy308, Nov 22, 2019
    Does it have the original radio, if so these can go bad and drain the battery. Happened to me recently.
     
  6. Bob in Texas

    Bob in Texas F1 Rookie

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    #6 Bob in Texas, Nov 22, 2019
    If you don’t have an aftermarket radio (famous for battery drain issues) then you might have a door micro switch going bad and draining the battery. I’ve seen numerous reports over the past years of battery drain that’s been traced to a bad door micro switch. Just something to eliminate as a cause.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  7. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
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    #7 Skidkid, Nov 22, 2019
    Like Trev said, Start with the battery. And, voltage is a poor/terrible measure of a batteries condition or even how the system is responding.
     
  8. andy308

    andy308 Formula 3

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    #8 andy308, Nov 22, 2019
    I put an ammeter in line with the battery and then started pulling fuses to see where the draw was. Under 50mA is ok, my radio was drawing over 500mA with the car off. Lots of YouTube videos on how to perform this troubleshooting on a car.
     
  9. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    #9 RedNeck, Nov 22, 2019
    Nope, have the clarion flip-out option
    That's interesting...I know the window micro switches like to go, and my passengers side window has always indexed weird, but it closed properly so I didn't put much thought into it.
     
  10. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    #10 RedNeck, Nov 22, 2019
    I will be doing that troubleshooting when I have a few hours to invest...was just wondering if there was something I was missing by failing to do the "proper" processes.
     
  11. Flyingbrick242

    Flyingbrick242 Formula Junior
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    #11 Flyingbrick242, Nov 22, 2019
    Like mentioned there is only one way to measure parasitic current consumption you must have a amp meter inline with the negative battery terminal..after around 10-15 minutes when all communications stops you should see 0.050ma or less.

    I can also add these cars are very sensitive to cranking voltage drops, my F430 had a battery that measured 12.65v but would illuminate the suspension error in the instrument cluster on start up cycle key off and restart display message extinguished.
    Changed the battery with a interstate MTZ 34r problem solved.
    Good Luck with your vehicle.
     
  12. andy308

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    #12 andy308, Nov 23, 2019
  13. Jeff Pintler

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    #13 Jeff Pintler, Nov 24, 2019
    I agree the best start is to exactly measure the shutdown current with a digital meter. u are looking for less than 40ma or 0.040amps and remember the meter needs to be connected in series with the negative battery cable. also know that the frunk (fun word) needs to be closed and latched so the can bus system will go to sleep after an hour. Also know u will blow the fuse in the meter if you turn on the ignition switch with the meter connected in series. Another fun fact is the trunk lamp draws 600ma or 0.600 amps when it is on. I replaced my trunk switch this summer because the contacts stuck on and killed the battery. I have thrown a lot of odessy batteries away and found them to always let u down sometime. U can get an AGM battery from wally world for $150, type 34R. Remember any aftermarket item could have been installed incorrectly by professionals. Good Luck!

    Jeff Pintler
    89 348tb, 86TR, 99 360 3pedal, 05 S-160bobcat
     
  14. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    #14 RedNeck, Dec 4, 2019
    Just to update this thread, I have not had a chance to do a "proper" diagnosis reading current draw (Well versed in the process and electronics, but I do appreciate the advice and links)...but I believe @Bob in Texas might have led me to the correct diagnosis. I did a small experiment...I leave my car unlocked in the garage. Always. So I worked the locks a few times and left it locked. Disconnected my charger in the morning and worked a 13 hour day..came home and light was still green. Before, working a normal 8 hour day, I would come home to and orange light. Apparently these door switches need worked out every once in a while or they stick. I'm considering taking my doors apart anyway to do some preventative maintenance to my assumed original latches so will probably just replace most everything while I'm in there.
     
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