HOW TO: Repair F355 Spider Top Sensor for Power Windows | FerrariChat

HOW TO: Repair F355 Spider Top Sensor for Power Windows

Discussion in '348/355' started by Loser, May 21, 2016.

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  1. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #1 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited: May 21, 2016
    Note: This repair should take an hour or less and is simple if you know how to use a soldering iron and a heat gun.

    My power windows stopped working when the top was down due to a bad sensor switch in the frame for the convertible top behind the LH drivers seat. I researched the replacement assembly and found it for roughly $300 from retailers and $200 on eBay.

    I ended up pulling the part number off of the switch and locating a similar replacement. The switch I found was a SAIA-BURGESS V4NCS. This is a three wire switch instead of the original two wire switch, but other than that, it is an exact replacement.

    I purchased the switch here:

    V4NCS - SAIA-BURGESS - SWITCH | Newark element14

    I will post the repair procedure that I used, with photos, in the following thread.

    - Tom
     
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  2. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #2 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The tools you will need include:
    1. Phillips screwdriver
    2. Small flathead screwdriver
    3. 4mm socket
    4. Soldering iron and solder
    5. Heat shrink tubing and heat gun
    6. Wire cutter and wire stripper
    7. A piece of cardboard
    8. Ohm meter (If you use a different switch than I used. You will need to verify that you use the wires that are in the normally closed switch position)
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  3. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    #3 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  4. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #4 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  5. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #5 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Then remove the 4mm nuts from the screws that hold the switch. There is a small metal bracket on the screws that comes off next, followed by the switch, and finally the roller lever bracket. One of my screws was bent, so I left it in the track, but I placed all the other parts into an exploded view in the photo below. The screw on the far left is from the cover.

    You may use the wire cutters to cut off the old switch. Cut the wires as close to the switch as possible so you can retain the length to attach the new switch.
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  6. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #6 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The old switch is a "normally closed" switch which means it conducts electricity between the two wires until the button is pressed. The new switch has three wires so that it can be used in both "normally closed" mode and "normally open" mode.

    The blue wire is for the "normally open" mode so we don't need it. Cut the blue wire off and use some heat shrink tubing to cover and protect it.
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  7. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    #7 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #8 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now it's time to prepare the wires in the car.

    Remove the plastic cover from the wires and cut it back about 1" so that the wires will be exposed when it is reinstalled. Do not reinstall it yet.

    Strip both wires back 1/4" to 1/2", twist and add a little solder to each.
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  9. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    #9 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  10. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #10 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Solder the new switch wires to the two newly exposed wires in the car. It doesn't matter which order they are in. I just happened to connect the red wire to the grey wire and the black wire to the white wire (even though you can't tell because of my crappy cell phone photo).

    Next, pull the two heat shrink tubes over the solder connections. Then pull the larger heat shrink tube over the connections as well.
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  11. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    #11 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  12. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #12 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #13 Loser, May 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Qavion likes this.
  14. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Nov 26, 2012
    3,814
    Tinton Falls, NJ
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    Bob Ferraris
    Terrific write up. Thank you for taking the time to do this.

    I hadn't heard of this issue before but e will know where to look for six if it occurs.

    Well done
     
  15. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
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    +1

    Much appreciated
     
  16. Pepsi10

    Pepsi10 Formula Junior

    Nov 24, 2008
    855
    InlandNorthWest
    Full Name:
    Mike M
    Outstanding Tom. Thank you. Everything has been fine for a few years. But now windows not working etc. Will try your plan.
     
  17. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 9, 2010
    21,712
    WI
    Nice work!
     
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  18. Buzzl

    Buzzl Formula Junior

    Well done, thanks, I may need to do this one day. Just goes to show that there are great people on this forum.
     
  19. krazykarguy

    krazykarguy Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2014
    716
    Fort Mill, SC
    Full Name:
    Matt
    I recently went through the exercise of reattaching the original switch to the top frame. The 'upper' screw had been sheared off somehow, and as such, the switch could not be depressed by the arm.

    Before ruling that your switch is bad, put your top fully down and then depress the switch with a small screwdriver. Recheck that your windows are inoperative - if not, the switch or the arm is likely bent and only needs an adjustment.

    In our case, it was simply to properly re-mount it to the car. :D
     
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  20. Pepsi10

    Pepsi10 Formula Junior

    Nov 24, 2008
    855
    InlandNorthWest
    Full Name:
    Mike M
    Just want to say a huge thank you to the original poster. I had this problem (windows did not operate when roof was down). Replaced the $5 switch versus $200-$300 if you can find them, according to his directions. And my windows now work perfectly.
    One suggestion I would make, quarters are a bit tight, so I found it a bit difficult to solder things together without also melting my heat shrink tubing prematurely, which I had, somewhat off to the side, ready to cover the soldered joint. I have not used such things, but I will next time. They are solder and heat shrink together.
    https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B073RMRCC3
     
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