Well, with all due respect, but historically and regardless of the object, it is quite rare to find a good/great AND cheap/inexpensive in same, especially true with old/used cars. Finding them combined should be expected to be, if not impossible, at least a struggle, Besides, it has been proven time and time again that more often than not, cheap ones end up costing more in the long run than good ones initially (and I'm not talking value speculations here, just realities of life with vintage cars).
No matter how good they appear to be or are touted to be, I've yet to see a vintage car that didn't require a bunch of time and money to be a safe and reliable driver. That is because, generally, these cars for sale have been sitting for a long time, and that alone does damage. There is no way to get a car sorted except to put some miles on it and fix what comes up. That is rarely done.
Didn’t say “cheap”... My point was just that most “good cars” seem to have “great car" asking prices associated with them these days. And I was just saying that finding a good car at a decent price is not easy...
Yes agreed. This is part of what I meant when I said that most cars for sale privately have a host of question marks over them. Not sure I ever came across a car that it was obvious was not going to need a host of stuff as soon as I bought it.
It did stop raining somewhere north of Temecula Calif. thats when I stepped up the pace and let those 6 Webber's and 4 cams sing to me. Here is a shot of the ZF power steering installed in my Spyder during the conversion in 1979 by Autosport. Makes all the difference in the world. Note: the steel enforced fender wells. Ciao, FGM Image Unavailable, Please Login
You are so right on about driving them to keep them sorted out. Not only the better they run, but the more you drive them the less fixing they require. I call it "tuning" some call it "fedeling" My Daytona simply works great! From Cold - I pump it 3 times - take my foot off the gas pedal and hit the key BOOM engine as it idles I watch the oil pressure come up and from there let it idle for at least 15 minutes before setting off down the road. I take it easy for the first 3 or 4 miles and never run it above 5000 RPM until fully warmed up including the transmission. Ciao, FGM
while many of the freshly restored cars are concours ready that doesnt mean they are road ready. it may take a few hundred miles and many hours to “dial in” a just completed car.
This is very true. I have seen a lot of cars that were freshly restored and claimed to be "excellent" only to find that the work was done sub par and many things needed to be done again. Just my .02 lira Ciao, FGM
Hi guys I’m the guy that bought the Bat Daytona. I learned a lot from you guys talking about the spider conversion. I having it shipped to Orange County to my mechanic to check it out. Once it gets here I can use your help in determining what quality the conversion was done in 1985. I’m new to FerrariChat so if I did something wrong please be patient. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Shoot I don’t want my whole name on the tread..... I will figure this out Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I am a pretty pure purist when it comes to cars. I wouldn't let them put seat belts in my E-Type, or add a side view mirror because that's how it came from the factory. But I have to admit that if I was in the market, and there was a conversion done as nice as the one that just traded on BaT it would be very, very tempting. They just look so damn good and I can't imagine how fun they would be to drive!
Hi Philip, congrats on you buy...i searched for a year and looked at 6 conversions ,bought the best that was 20 years ago...it had 23 miles (yes twenty three) on the odometer since full ‘nut and bolt’ restoration and re body from coupe to spyder..it took a long time and thousands of dollars to sort it out. Finding parts needed always took time and research...sometimes up to a year to research find the part and have the work completed... I lived in Orange County at that time also...traffic made it hard to drive this car anytime but very early weekend mornings...when you need advise TTR is a great guy to know, we will be glad to assist you anytime, all the best with your new Daytona welcome to The Club..Chuck Conversion 12883
Welcome to F Chat Phillip, and congrats on Daytona ownership. .... I too, found that the more I drove mine, the better she was. So get her out on the open roads, and enjoy one of life's great experiences. As to conversion prices. The consensus is that traditionally a cut car is valued at about coup prices. And I see no variation from that today. Though people have their preferences.
14281 coming up in Arizona next month... https://russoandsteele.com/vehicle-details/?show_vehicle=174773¤t_index=10&total_results=234&tsauction_id=204&=&caryear=&caryearto=&search_text=&page=featured&showpage=1 Paul
None on the floor Steve, They are both fiberglass. The Spyder has a steel rear bulkhead behind the seats and steel rear inner wheel arches, these are fiberglass on the coupe.
More Qs. I wonder are there the same differences in bulkhead and wheel well materials used between the 275 GTS and 275 NART Spyder as opposed to the Berlinetta, and also 330/365 GTS and 330/365GTC? Do the fiberglass floors, bulkheads and wheel wells generally become brittle or deteriorate and need replacing after time?