F430 Broken Manifold Stud

When putting in the new studs, do you torque the studs when installing them on the block, or do you just torque the brass nut on to the header?

 

Hello - so.... got the passenger side OEM header off. The broken stud is the one closest to the front of the car. The water/oil pump is in the same general area. From the pictures below, you can see an “elbow” from the water pump that connects to one of the coolant hoses.

The reason for this post is to find out if there is any issue with removing that coolant elbow, so there is more room to manoeuvre a drill to take out that broken stud. I would have to drain the coolant.... replace gasket #23 from the Ricambi website parts diagram:
https://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-diagrams/ferrari/v6-v8/430-group/f430-05-08/water-oil-pump.html

Any other downside I might be missing?

On the pictures one can see the elbow getting in the way, plus the hydraulic clutch line (I lightly wrapped it in masking tape so my arm would not keep taking a beating from the glass fibres). Also, the discoloured gasket and block can be seen where the stud was sheared off.

 

Hello .... update - got the broken stud out.

First: Huge thank you to all that replyed and offered advice...... so here is how it went:

There was no access to a drill press or high tech measuring tools. All tool used were hand tools.

Measurements were done with calliper and ruler. LOTS of measurements were taken. The numbers provided below worked for me, please do not assume they are correct. Take your own measurements if doing something similar.

The centre - centre distance of the studs is ~ 104 mm, for studs in the same row. The stud thread thickness was measured at 7.82 mm.

The jig was made by cutting a Home Depot aluminum bar stock in 4 sections. Three holes were made on every aluminum, bar stock section two holes with a 5/16” drill bit (7.94 mm to fit studs on the block). The third hole was 5/64” (~2 mm), except for one bar stock section used to see if we were on target. That one was larger, and once the jig was ready, that hole was cut off to allow for cuttings to come out. Once done the jig was 4 sections of bar stock thick.

NOTE: Two washers on each stud, were used under the jig when attached to the block. Otherwise the jig would not sit flat/flush.

Before drilling the target was checked using the bar stock section with the bigger drill hole. I dabbed some whiteout. Then with each section of bar stock the 5/64” hole was checked with red paint.

Then it was drill time. After drilling the 5/64” hole and next hole size with a reverse thread bit, the third bit was the one from the extraction kit shown in the pictures. Thanks to voicey I picked up something similar to the Snap-On set.

Note: The measurement for an empty stud hole was ~22 mm, but stud depth is roughly 14-15mm. The drill bits were marked off with tape, so the drill depth was not exceeded.

In the pictures below you can see the jig and right hand drill in action, the colouring of the stud surface to see if the jig was accurate, the little booger being extracted.

Worth noting, Windsock mentioned the OEM header might be wrapped, and it was. Do yourself a favour and oblong the two stud holes on each end of the headers and remove your U shaped bracket from the exhaust section.

Thanks again.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

BTW, I did not use a right hand drill.... it was a right ANGLE drill. Also Windsock mentioned the header might be warped and it was.... not wrapped.... must have been autocorrect on that one.