Hi everyone, I am having starting issues where I turn the key to start the car and nothing happens. Engine does not turn over and starter solenoid does not click. I recently had the starter completely rebuilt thinking this was the problem but it still happens. Wires and connectors are tight on the starter. I also adjusted the brake pedal sensor to make sure that wasn’t the cause. I believe the issue is within the ignition switch since I do not hear the solenoid clicking. I’m going to check the voltage at the starter to see what I’m getting there, since it doesn’t seem likes it’s enough to engage the solenoid. I’ve read about installing a bypass relay in order to get more voltage to the starter. Has anyone done this and could give me advice on which wire is the one that goes out to the starter (from behind the drivers seat)? Is it the wires located behind the starter relay? And will this work or is my thinking wrong since there already is a starter relay? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
No crank & no solenoid click doesn't sound like low voltage. It sounds like it isn't engaging the system. That means it thinks it is in gear, the trunk is open, or something like that. It also sounds like you are throwing parts at an issue and you don't have a plan to systematically isolate and diagnose the problem. You need to get a systematic plan OR take it to a pro. Any other option is going to be expensive and frustrating.
Does the car have a manual transmission or an F1 transmission. If the car has an F1 transmission, it will not allow the starter to crank if it doesn't see that the clutch has not disengaged (there can be a few things that will cause this to happen). There is a starter relay under the LR. trim panel that is controlled by the F1 transmission ECU. You can check the input and output of the relay to see if the problem is related to the F1 system. Brian Brown San Francisco Motorsports
I see you adjusted the brake pedal switch. I see that misdiagnosis here regularly. It completely ignores the root of the problem. 360, all versions for most of the production run had a stupid brake vacuum system design. One of the 2 brake vacuum check valves would leak and after turning the engine off the brake pedal gets hard making it difficult to push the pedal far enough to activate the switch. This condition can also be dangerous but is very often overlooked. If that is the cause a CS brake vacuum valve is cheap and easily installed. It was also a much better way to achieve preserving brake vacuum. That valve is a very important safety feature of the brake system but everyone ignores it.
Hopefully above is correct. I'd read the voltage at the starter. If voltage then check the connection at the starter. On mine same thing would happen, turns out it was a bad metal spade type connector on the wire. if no voltage then trace the line behind the drivers seat. You have a relay there that opens if charger is connected. Check if you hear a click behind the seat as the starter relay is clicking. Could just be a bad relay. Is the F1 pump priming when you get into car?
1st things 1st make sure you have enough juice.... my darn cut off switch got corroded last year and I was going nuts looking for the problem.... check voltage from the positive and ground behind drivers seat panel
