"Slow Down" flashing on the 360

It's because it "senses" that the cat temperatures are too high, and then it shuts down that bank of cylinders. There is a thermocouple (temp sensor) on each catalytic convertor. This can go bad or the wire crack leading to errors, false readings, of temperature too high. The other place there can be faults is the ECU they connect to. Under the engein trim panels on each side is the box, about 1-2 inches by 1-2 incehs by 4-6 inches or so. These have been known to go bad and give an erroneous signal.

When this happens the ECU shuts down that bank of cylinders, and that leads to the sluggishness you felt.

If both the sensor and ECU are fine, then that suggests that you have a coil that is bad, leading to fuel being burned in the cat, thus heating it up (correct this as it will trash the cat). Or some air getting in the system.. or other funkiness that is leading to temps rising in the cat.

If you have an IR thermometer, take the temp of the cats on both sides. Same temp? Is one glowing hot? If either of these then I'd hold off driving it and get it looked at. If you're doing it yourself, check the plugs. Any look sooty or different than the rest?

 

It didn't come on last night on the ride home. Lots of traffic and hot weather. Lot of idling. Did get it to about 50 for a little bit.

 

Ok took it for a 100 mile ride on Sunday and everything went fantastic. Now this morning I was goign to work and while sitting at a light the "slow down" came on. Gave it a little gas and it went away. Stopped and it came on then went away and stayed away till I got to work. What Ferraris don't like getting up early and going to work?

 

Check this thread in the Tech section ...... http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/328364-exhaust-ecu-aka-sdecu.html...... you will find all you need to diagnose which component is faulty.

A frustrating problem, but also one that is relatively easily cured.

 

I had this happen this past Sunday. I was driving my F430 Spyder 'spirited' with no problem. We stopped off at a car show, and since it was a public place, I didn't open the rear deck lid to cool the engine bay. I don't know if this was the cause, but when I returned 40-minutes later, the car seemed to be in a limp mode, the dash flashed SLOW DOWN, and I had little power. I lived only 5-miles or so away, and drove it home. It sat in the driveway with the deck-lid up, cooled the motor, and took it for another ride an hour later . . . all good!

 

I have this exact issue. My tech hooked it up and bank 1-4 is misfiring. Bought new coils from micks garage which are oem bosch coils for about $69 each. Ferrari charges $257 each. Replacing all 4 coils. I will keep you updated

 

Opening your engine bay for cooling will have no effect on this. Happy coincidence only. You have a problem somewhere.

 

Just as likely to be a single spark plug that's broken down it's electrode insulation. Hope he swapped the coils side to side or did other diagnostics before rushing off to spend.

 

I had the same issue, intermittent slow down warnings. Sometimes when the car was cold, some when it was warm. I did all the work myself to diagnose and repair and although it takes time wasn't too bad. I changed the plugs which didn't change anything and since the warning light came on even while cold I figured it was electrical. If you listen carefully you can tell which side shuts down and once I changed out the cat ECU, about $350 from the dealer the problem was solved. Very easy to replace yourself. I think someone said it earlier but the silicone seal cracks and moisture gets in. Very common problem from what I've heard. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions changing it yourself if you go that route.

 

Were these slow down lights flashing? or on consistently. Mine started flashing after 35 miles on freeway then came on permanently. Stopped the car, cooled it down some and drove maybe 5 minutes to flashing then on all the time. Limp home mode was on. Limped it home 30 minutes driving slow and stopping several times to let it cool. Home cat temp showed 560f on left side and 140f on right side. o2 sensor? evap lime leak? my light is not flashing...just got home...was going to the coast when it happened so I'll go check it out now and report....

 

The temperature differential suggests that there must be a misfire on the left side, causing un-burnt fuel to get to the cat and ignite there. Check plugs and coils for a start. Suggest temperature probing each of the exhaust outlets - you'll probably narrow down your problem to a single cylinder in seconds. Best.

 

Shouldn't the car throw a code showing the misfire then? Was thinking about buying a real time reader and this might prompt me to do it. Took the car out last night for 20 min drive...no slow down light...temps on both cats and manifold were basically the same. Thinking a real time reader will allow me to check the o2's, coils, etc. How do you check the exhaust outlets accurately? Anyone use these infrared thermo's before...does one have to maintain the exact same distance to the object to remain accurate? New years day...guess I'll read up on a OBD reader with not much else to do & most things closed. Cheers and and Happy 2014!

 

I've had several misfire situations with no code so, no, it doesn't always throw a code.

If no SD light and no temperature variation now then I guess your problem has gone away, temporarily at least.

I use an IR temp sensor which has a little laser beam on it to help aim accurately. I just hold it about two inches from each outlet from the block and measure from there. If the car is started from cold it's generally obvious within 30 seconds or so which (if any) cylinders aren't firing properly.

 

Well, temps all seemed the same except the front two..one on each side nearest the cab of the car...maybe 100 degree's F less but I would guess that is because of their location and no hot gasses blowing down the exhaust manifold. Other wise it all seemed equal temp wise....gave it an Italian tune up and drove it for 30 minutes with no slow down at all....not feeling real confident taking it out of town...

 

I can't say that's "no problem" but on my own car #1 is always the most hot and #8 is always the most cool and I would regularly see 100f differential between the two. I suspect it may be due to lack of or breaking down of insulation material rather than poor running though as the plug colour is similar on both.

Regardless, if a cylinder isn't firing properly it's pretty obvious and you'd definitly have more than 100f differential so it sounds like you're good ..... for the moment!

 

Well its time to replace my Ignition Coils in the 360 has anyone used NGK Ignition Coils ?