94 512TR 66,000 mile major | Page 15 | FerrariChat

94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

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  1. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
    It might be easier to install a separate ground if the solenoid is still good. That way just one wire to a remote switch. Just thinking out loud. I had a problem with a ground where the AC fan would stop (among other things) and the cabin would flood with hot air. Very uncomfortable in Florida in the summer.
     
  2. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Jim, I originally tried a remote switch to ground the solenoid. But for some reason the the heater would occasionally turn hot. The climate control is funny. The manual shut off cured all the unwanted heat problems. I can reach the valve from the passenger foot rest.
     
  3. JIMBO

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    The little 90 degree hose is available but not in stock. I removed the cut part of my original hose and there was still enough room to insert the reducer. The hose was in good shape. It looks like the new hose should be able to make the turn without the 90 degree hose in place. We shall see. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  4. JIMBO

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    Pulling these hoses through the chassis tunnel is scary - the hoses have been in there for 26 years. First I connected the new blue silicone hose to the red hose with the barbed plastic connector from Lowes. I then applied some duct tape for extra measure and put some CV grease on as much of the old hose and several feet of new hose. Then it was hope and pull. Remarkably it pulled through the tunnel smoothly. The old hose ends up being just about 8 feet in length, and is the longer hose by about 1 foot. The black hose is bundled with the two AC hoses and has a rough outer texture. I have some worries.
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  5. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    I relate...

    ...upon seeing the Houdini hose on my ‘90 it made no sense to replace just 2 out of 3 hoses. The one, open hose end that I could evaluate looked decent. No appreciable cracking and no internal swelling. My rarely used ‘good enough’ button was pushed and a strategic retreat followed.
     
  6. JIMBO

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    Hose #2 was a royal pain in the rear. First I removed the 10 mm nut holding on the large hose clamp that suspended the black (upper) coolant hose as well as an electrical cable and both AC hoses. There are two tie wraps that also need to be cut. In photo two, from left to right are the electrical cable, black coolant hose and the two AC hoses. The new blue silicone coolant hose is partly visible.
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  7. JIMBO

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    The first problem with the black hose is that the inner surface had swollen so much that the barbed plastic splice could not be pushed in. I tried stretching it with pliers and a battery terminal spreader, but no go. I finally had to get a large drill bit and scrape away the inner surface by hand. Note the difference in internal diameter of the red and black coolant hoses - they are supposed to be the same.
    I have to agree with Ago Car Nut - the red hose is probably aftermarket. It appears to be a much better quality hose. And I had to ream out the black hose in place under the dash with next to no room. Fun.
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  8. JIMBO

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    Next I connected the black hose to my new blue silicone hose with the barbed plastic splice and lots of duct tape. Thank god for duct tape.. The connection got hung up at the mouth of the tunnel, and it took some persistent prying with a large screwdriver to move the other hoses around. After that, the old/new hose connection pulled through easily. Not fun, but it's done.
    Photo 1 shows the mouth of the tunnel, photo 2 shows the back of the tunnel, and photo 3 shows all the extra tools I had to use to complete this job. Also some grease for the hoses and some WD-40 sprayed into the back of the tunnel.
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  9. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Jim, I also replaced the heater hoses running thru the console. Now you don't have to worry about hose failure in the cabin. Photo is the manual shut off valve for the heater core. Access by folding down floor carpet. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  10. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

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    Don’t you need two valves? Both inlet and outlet hoses are under pressure.
     
  11. JIMBO

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    With the solenoid closed (grounded), there will be no flow through the heater core inside the AC unit. The coolant will still be under pressure, but will not be moving and will not be hot.
     
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  12. JIMBO

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    By the way, I bought 16 feet of 3/4" silicone heavy wall heater hose (at $5.78/foot or $92.48 total) from the local Goodyear hose store. All they do is hoses. They know hoses. The 16 feet length was a guess but turned out to be perfect.
     
  13. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

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    yes... but a hose failure in the cabin is still a concern
     
  14. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    then why not just disconnect the houses at the engine
     
  15. JIMBO

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    I'm going to use Evans Coolant (WWW.evanscoolant.com), a waterless zero pressure, high performance coolant. There will only be hot coolant flowing, but under no pressure. You can remove the radiator cap on a hot engine.
     
  16. JIMBO

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    I found this brass 3/4" 90 degree barbed elbow fitting at Lowes for a couple of bucks. If I decide not to reuse the original "hose, this can be an alternative to the $20 Ferrari part. I hope the more flexible silicone hose will make the turn to the solenoid by itself. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  17. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    try ro get an elbow and not a 90° angle
     
  18. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Then you never have heat if you need it.
     
  19. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    No, the manual is a back up for when the solenoid valve acts up.
     
  20. ago car nut

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    Brian Crall ( Rifledriver) recommends Zerex G 50 concentrate. He knows these cars well. I would not use Evans waterless. My TR cools well on anti-freeze and distilled water.
     
  21. JIMBO

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    Worst case scenario is it does not work and I drain and refill with traditional coolant. My friend Paul has Evans in his 348 and it works fine. LIfe is an adventure. Nothing risked, nothing gained.
     
  22. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    My concern would be cavitation... The g05 and shell ultra elc both have protection against that ..does Evans ?

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  23. JIMBO

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    I have no clue. If I put it in and it does not cool, I'll take it out. It's designed for racing applications and reportedly Jay Leno uses Evans coolant in all of his vehicles.
    Does it work in a 1994 512TR? We'll all find out.
     
  24. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    I look it up out of curiosity : By avoiding water in the coolant, Evans protects against insulating pockets of water vapor, as well as against water-caused corrosion and cavitation erosion. Electrolysis is minimized because Evans waterless coolant has less than one third the electrical conductivity of water-based coolant.

    Not sure if is 100% insurance but at least it is mentioned
     
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  25. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Rifledriver mentioned something in another post about some anti freeze was detrimental to Nikasil liners in a Ferrari. He recommended Zerox G -05. I can't find the thread. Maybe Evans waterless coolant is fine?
     

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