A brand new power window thread - YaY!!

I know this has been hashed through countless times but this is a new decade, it's 2020 for cripes sake so we need a new one. I bought the accelerator kits back a couple of years ago but never installed them because well - they still went up and down at a glacial rate at least. Well now...the pilot's side don't go up no more.

And while we're at it, has anyone with a QV ever tried to actually use the emergency crank? Well, it don't work. At least not unless you remove that lovely huge storage pocket that they added years after designing the crank because the two are not compatable. Ask me how I know.

Anyway, as a NEW thread I want all fresh material - no links to old threads. We don't want this to end up like an old continental city with endless blind alleys and dead ends built centuries ago. We want a new city for the new millennium. Purpose built for success!

I'll do my best to get this started over the next couple of weeks. After all, we have way better cameras now and way better media so let's make this a new style crowd source production and pave the way to a brighter future for all.

 

I really like to see a detailed step by step video on how to remove, repair, Re grease, and refit the window motor and cable back in it’s full function. I have searched FChat and youtube but came up with nothing. Hopefully somebody can provide such video.

 

Well I'm gonna do it Mike. I've got the knuckles and the grease. You got a camera?

 

I fixed mine (QV) with the relay fix, and they work fine, but I'll probably regrease the gearboxes, adjust and lube the channels, etc, just to waste a bit of time, give me a bit of occupational therapy, and annoy Aircon

 

You can never have enough window threads. Mine are on the list so watching with interest.

 

Have you discovered Birdman yet?
http://www.birdman308.com/service/windowservice/index.html
http://www.birdman308.com/windows.htm

 

Personally I wouldn't waste your time with any of that.
I just installed the new generation motor/gearbox/cable complete units into both sides of a customer's GTS and the windows fly up and down at an astonishing rate whether the doors are open or shut and whether the engine is running or not.
Simply unbolt the old and install the complete new assembly and you're done.

 

What is your source for these?

 

When you produce your YT-video, use my cable holder tool please

It was around the beginning of the second half of last year, last decade, when I began distributing my tool though

What many folks miss, is the increasing resistance of the window switches because of arcing.
I fixed this, but my thread is from the last decade (northern hemisphere spring 2019)

Best from Germany
Martin

 

I second that question - very interested to learn more about any “new generation” window regulator hardware.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

This is the set-up I'm talking about:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-308-Power-Window-Motor-Ferrari-60030509/362110066194?epid=1926278875&hash=item544f711e12:g:WKoAAOSwvp5ZiN~l
Superformance UK has them for around $260 USD or GT Car Parts for a little more.
The most expensive I've seen is Mr. Fiat for around $650.

 

I think I can get these puppys working for less than six hundred bucks but yea, if I was working on somebody else's car and it was their wallet that was getting thinned I could go that route. Besides, I bought this car to tinker with and disassembling power window motors is definitely tinkering.

 

Here's the question I always ask about most of the "upgrades" or other mods to improve stuff: Did the windows (or whatever issue we are discussing) work correctly/adequately when the car was new ? If so, then just do the necessary work to clean/adjust/repair/lube/the original parts.

 

I agree. Stronger motors or "window accelerators" work like painkillers. Curing the symptoms.
Like mentioned before, I did all cleaning and lubing from the fuse box (soldered all rivets) over all electrical connectors, switches till cleaning and lubing the motor gears. Now my windows are one second slower than on my modern daily driver.
Like also mentioned before, the new switches on the market are junk and build up resistance within a quite short period. Caused by inferior material of the switch contacts. This slowed down my windows more than the old sticky grease inside the motor gears. And led to sudden complete failure of one of my windows.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

All valid points being made here that I don't disagree with or take exception with.
All I'm saying is that I've been working on these cars since 1986 and have never seen a set of windows work as fast or strong as with these newly designed parts.
Possibly faster than they even performed new in the showroom.
In the end, every owner has to make their own decision.

 

I've done the degreasing. Worked great on the driver's side, didn't help much on the passenger.
Have lubed the cable and pulleys. Granted, the pulleys are a little sad.
I've replaced both switches. But I can see that if I wiggle the passenger switch, it seems to help the window a little. Anybody have another source for the switches? I want to think the last replacements were from Land Rover?
I've got birdman's fuse box, so that shouldn't be the issue.
I'm thinking I need to revisit this come Spring. try & bypass the switch for a test and depending on the results, Check grounds & then rewire the connections.

I'm not a fan of putting in the relay boxes though I have a set of relays for the job from an old post.

 

With a set of small spanners you can dismantle the whole door, right down to the motor armature and carbon brushes! Clean the motor up, re-lubricate it, re-shim it if necessary and put it all back together again. Just take plenty of photographs as you take bits off!
There is no witchcraft. A modicum of patience will get you through.

 

Clyde,

do you still have your old switches? I reused mine. Opened them, sraped the contacts clean (don't use sandpaper) and used a bit of conductive paste on the contacts, which not only improves resistance, but suppresses arcing too.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

I do have them in storage. I can pull them & clean them up & reinstall them.
I think in the past I used a fiberglass brush to clean them like one of these: [url=https://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI-KTI-70550-Sanding/dp/B000FN8H52/ref=sr_1_14?crid=33MCQ6C36MPDI&keywords=fiberglass+brush+pencil&qid=1580767676&sprefix=fiberglass+brush%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-14]Amazon[/url]

 

I am doing my passenger side window at the moment and need to replace the cable.
But I am struggling to get the new cable in the spool again. I drilled the top hole (like on birdmans-site) and am trying with paperclips to pull up the cable, but I did not succeed yet.
Just a game of patience I guess.

 

So if you get the new regulators, you still need to use the old cables and pulleys and all that monkey works, right?

In the course of recommissioning my car to get it back on the road ('85 QV) Ron fitted the accelerators plus lubed the cables etc. They seem to work okay, even though it is cold here.

 

Well I finished the driver's side yesterday and I'll have to admit that as much as I like tinkerin' on my Ferrari there wasn't much joy in this task. I can see why there aren't any comprehensive videos out there, it's just a dirty nasty job.

All of what's been previously said is true, about the grease and getting the cable on the spool right are true. How it all works would be harder to explain than just doing it. Once you've put it in and taken it back out half a dozen times you eventually figure it out.

I cleaned the switches with Deoxit and then did a test before and after installing the "accelerators" They made a slight difference but maybe not $120 worth. I think they are really nothing more than a couple of diodes epoxied into a plastic box.

Not looking forward to doing the passengers side. Maybe I'll just wait until it stops working.

 

I recommend using a slight smear of conductive paste on the contacts to keep them clean resp. prevent arcing.
See my thread from nine months ago:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/slow-windows-easy-first-try-to-improve-things.599007/

Best from Germany
Martin

 

The stuff I used is called FaderLube F5 which is designed for switches and controls in vintage audio equipment. It does the regular deox then leaves a protective lubricant coating. You can use it without taking the switch apart just spray it in there and operate the switch about 20 or 30 times then let it dry. My driver's side switch didn't work at all before I sprayed that stuff in there and felt soft. Now it has the tactile feel and an audible click when I press it and the window goes up and down

 

I forgot to mention this but some of you with QV's might not be aware that the emergency crank doesn't work. At least not without removing the door card. It hits the storage bin.