355 f1 pump bleeding

The thing is there are 7-10 seals and Orings to be replaced for an F1 slave cylinder. You want to replace them all because you want to do it just once. Contact Ricambi and tell him to sell you all the seals necessary to get to the slave cylinder and its mounting flange (including all the seals behind the mounting flange). Don't forget the triple seals and the clutch shaft oring. I don't think Daniel carries the viton triple seals so installing those will be tricky.

 

Hey thanks for the input and i did placed an order on their website back on Monday, did not order the triple seals as they were replaced by a tech back in 2018.
Is the clutch shaft O ring located in the back of the flange? Uh oh might have missed that one :0

 

F355 F1 (F1 only!; If you're reading this thread and have a gear lever in your car, stop reading!)

You'll likely need:
1 x 170193
1 x 170194
1 x 170195
1 x 170196
3 x 137249 (aka triple seals)
1 x 104984 (the black o-ring on the clutch shaft, actually drawn on table #23)

and maybe, if you're pulling the flange:
2 x 166432 tiny o-rings on the back of the flange
1 x 170894 radial seal pressed into the back of the flange

Keep in mind, a lot of first timers struggle with getting the turquoise seals into the release bearing. Mess it up, and you'll be pulling the whole thing back out when it leaks. * note: I can't remember if the CRB355F1S is identical to the CRB355MS (manual) in the way some of the turquoise seals don't 100% surround their machined channel. The little gap where it seems 'too short' is correct.

I know folks think I have an ulterior motive to sell expensive stuff... maybe I do. But I'd rather sell you something to do the job once and just be done with it quickly so you can drive the car instead of tearing it apart a second time... so in that light, sometimes it does make sense to just purchase a new Hill Engineering CRB355F1S that has the seals pre-fitted. Take it out of the box, smear some fluid on the inside, jam it onto the shaft. Done.

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^^^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^^^

 

Understood thanks for the suggestion, however i think its a little bit too late got your package this morning.
Also it already has a Hills Bearing but i would've bought the whole kit if i knew it would be that hard

Any suggestion for the self bleeding after i'm done the seals replacement?
I tried opening the door but pump doesn't automatically turn on unless i press the paddle trying to upshift into 1st, am i missing something?

 

How did you do this? When the pump activates normally without the SD, it does not push fluid past the quick connect and through the system to the bleed near the clutch. I'd love to have a way to get the system bled without the SD as I'm looking at buying a clone as I type.

 

When you say the system I must assume you mean the clutch system
Yes when the pump kicks in it pressurize the whole system including the clutch

 

For some reason when I am running the pump via ignition with the clutch bleed open I am not getting any flow through the bleed. System pressurizes and pump stops.


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You are going to need to activate the throw out bearing solenoid to bleed it properly.

 

Alright so I'm not going crazy. There is a stop at the thrust bearing. Any best practices on keeping the solenoid activated?

 

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You need to activate the clutch solenoid in pic above
My Good friend Dave Lelonek has confirmed voltage is 12 volts
When I did it we only activated it for a few seconds at a time
It was a long time ago so I think that’s it