All, I have a slow leak from the Threaded Pin (bottom) on the F1 Clutch Hydraulic control. I tightened as much as I dare. Inspection: Cleaned the leaking area, tightened the thread and waited overnight. One drop on the pin. That was 12 hours and it had been leaking when the car sat for a few days, enough for a small puddle. The nut and the pin do not spin independently of each other (I did not forcefully try either). Better safe than sorry. My questions: I want to remove the pin and plug the hole to inspect the threads. Does it hurt to put thread tape (minimum) on the Pin when re-installing? Is the "Black Washer" on the threaded pin suppose to have a split in it? The split looks manufactured. Wondering if I add a rubber washer under it when re-installing will that resolve or band aid my problem. Best to order another pin? Thanks all. Boaf 1999 355 F1 Spider
Show us on a diagram what pin your talking about. As it is I would just be guessing. I had a hose which had a small leak and it leaked down to the pin so it may not be the pin. Depending on what you find may want someone with an Sd to test the system it’s really the only way to be sure of the problem if it’s not obvious.
Part 7. The overflow hose is what I believe you mention. I move the hose away from the pin, cleaned everything and that is when I found the fluid. It has been leaking for a while. One morning I found a long drip / puddle after about 2 weeks. Originally, thought the mechanic overfilled the bowl. I just went into the garage and was able to wiggled the Bolt (Pin) and nut as one. It has some play so I can see the fluid moving around the washer. My theory, I believe that the Bolt (Pin) and the nut should move separately so I can set the pin at different depths of adjustment and then tighten the nut to secure the pin in place. Just a thought. That is another question and now believe that is the cause of my leak. Tomorrow I will remove the shield and get a better photo. Thanks Taz
Image Unavailable, Please Login I think if you drive it more it will stop leaking. I am actually being serious I do not actually see the overflow hose but the pin is the lowest point. Mine will drip a little but if I am driving it2 to3 times a week it never drips. Then if I leave it for a few months no drip but is wet. The seal could be leaking and following back to the pin but mine weeps there a little as well. It’s at the end of the rod #9 above
DO NOT remove that bolt. It is very important for the F1 calibration and has nothing to do with oil. If you take the cover off(grey fibreglass) piece you will see a fairly hard plastic line. This is the one that weeps and the seal at the end of the shaft I pointed out. Those small nuts are what you remove to get the protective cover off
That leak has been reported before and seems to be prevalent when the car gets very cold. It's source is the over flow tube that Taz mentions. Unless it is making puddles, I would wipe it off and watch it...see what happens once things warm up.
Thanks Taz, Watson. I will wait. I looked at an earlier post I had done and it was originally leaking out of the hose. You can see it in this picture attached and the thread here. Never leaked in FL, only in PA. Should I be able to wiggly the pin and nut though? That worries me. To me it would make sense that the pin (bolt) and nut would be able to turn separately. Boaf Image Unavailable, Please Login
IIRC, that bolt holds the unit in place. The "bolt" is a stud form the housing and the lock not locks it in place. If there is movement . slop there, something's not correct, and needs to be secured. The weep of fluid form that hose has been reported before. Mine did it in my old place that was not heated and only a drop or two in the winter. Now the garage is heated and runs 70 degrees through out the winter and the weep never returned.
Thanks Watson, so the lock nut should spin separately from the stud. That makes sense, it should spin to snug the stud. I will hold off on any adjustment until I get it back down to FL, where it is warm.
That hose is there so oil can weep out. I hate to say it but unless it's dripping like crazy a little wetness there is part of the life of a hydraulic actuator. you have oil on that bolt because it's the lowest spot its not leaking there it's coming from the hose follow the fluid not the drip at its lowest point. I work on aircraft, I was for many years specifically a hydraulic mechanic, hydraulic flight controls leak and every component has a leakage rate. The hydraulics on the F1 will leak a drip here and there for let's of say amount 25 actuations that's a total bs guess but it will produce some hyd fluid over time. I have zeeo issues with the shift actuator leaking from that hose as long as it's not leaving a puddle over night. A drip here and there, a little wettnes is going to normal. wipe it down put a ziplock around the house to catch the fluid go drive it around come home and see whats wet. If that bolt is wet then sure you have a leak somewhere if it's only in the bag then it's doing its job.
please excuse my typos I was fixing them and timed out. Silly phone loves to change words on me. FYI my F1 has leaked from the hose I haven't checked it in some time but I will when I get home next month and mines been sitting for some time now I'll bet it had a drip just hanging there and a little puddle below it. Lack of use will imo produce a bit more fluid it was designed to not leak when operating, when it sits seals don't always seal when it's all warm and working and you'll see a bit more leak.
Thanks Phrogs. I can live with some leak. Over the course of 6 months, I had to add roughly 1/8 of a quart. That is not alot.
The pin should not move. It hangs so low they get hit and dragged in driveways etc. Don't worry, it will not effect adjustment if you try and tighten. The flats on the pin are used to tighten the pin in the housing. Hold them, loosen the nut then try tightening the pin in the actuator housing. Then retighten the nut. Its worth a try but I suspect it will not be successful. I have had to drill and helicoil the housing to repair them in the past but that will require special tooling and the computer equipment to get it reinstalled.
Mine is semi loose as well no up and down movement but definitely there is movement. As said above you can try to tighten it but likely not necessary just do not take it out as I stated above. It is the hose that is leaking likely as said above and once cleaned it may not be leaking as much as you think. If you had to add 1/8 to me that is a lot. I do not need to add oil between engine out services every 5 years and driving 5 to 10 thousand in that time.
So the news is OK. It is leaking from the overflow. the question is, why? The filling procedure followed was drive the car, cycle the gears, and top the fluid to the seam on the F1 ball. It is leaking through the overfill tube. Even before I topped it off, I had not added any fluid for 5 - 6 months, still dripping. Everything is working and do not want to mess with a functioning F1. Still would like to understand why it would overflow. Just to know, thanks on the thoughts. Boaf
I have not driven my car much the last 2 years so I can not honestly remember for sure on the amount in the reservoir but I can tell you that if you cycle gears or go for a drive and then fill to the max mark it will overflow right out the reservoir. This I did many years ago. I think, but not positive, that I was told at the time others experienced the same thing. I believe the process most of us were following is after the car has sat for a few days then check the level, this gives you an accurate amount. Transmission in neutral was the other factor.
The reservoir was an off the shelf part and too small for the application. When cold I turn on the key to charge the accumulator and fill just enough to have a small amount of fluid on the bottom. That is the lowest the level can go. If filled to the full mark cold it will overflow when hot.
